T273 -what will be next problem?

[Gregster613]

Hi Tymdealer,
I got read your reply and I appreciate the input! I, unfortunately, do not have any tractor dealers near me; nor do I feel the need to source out at this point for this particular problem [that has somewhat disappeared once again!].
However, I bought a steering wheel puller today at a local auto parts store. Of course, when I got home, just to check and ensure I bought the right tool it seems the steering wheel is unique to TYM. IE...my standard puller has bolts (metric & sae) along with a pair of L-shaped shafts that are used vice threaded bolts if'n no holes are apparent and guess what? To my dismay, there are no threaded or unthreaded holes inside the steering wheel hole.
All I've got is a 1 & 1/2" wide by approx 1" deep hole with no hold down/clamp locations readily visible?
What am I missing? Do I need a specific type puller or what? I intend to pull my steering wheel, lift off the dash top and replace the hood spring with a thicker/stronger spring. I am convinced that that is all it will take to remedy this problem I've been having.
But -- what is the correct type of puller to buy? Can you enlighten me as to the proper tools I need to acquire? If so, many many thanks your way!!
Once again, I do appreciate the input to help me rectify my problem and I am thankful that there is at least one TYM dealer still alive within the USA.

Bud, I read and heard your input also! That may be a next step for me too; however, it'll need be way further down the road for me. I have checked & re-checked my frame bolts & have had them loosen up on me only the one time? These "Lil Red Beasts" seem to pick individual & personally perplexing problems that they then pounce upon their owners with!
One last request -- has any 273 owner pulled their steeing wheel? If so, what type of puller is required? Am I so blind I just can't see how it's done? If so, envisen me please!!
Thanks to all & hang in there, these problems will eventually work out [I SURELY HOPE!] Greg

 

[myyaz33]

Gregster,

I just walked in the door from troubleshooting a cruise control problem and I had the bottom section of the dash off without taking off the top section (dash cluster) and steering wheel. Just take out all the screws in the black plastic dash housing and you should be able to finagle the bottom section out. It takes a little bit of prying at the tabs (where the screws were) but it can be done without damaging those tabs. Once you get that off, you have a pretty clean view of the hood spring.

 

[Gregster613]

Myyaz233;
Thanks for your reply/input. I had been thinking the same thing, 'cept I'm not ever so lucky! I'd surely break off one of those four tabs, then be in the river - much more deeply. Thanks for your suggestiion and I may end up attempting it.

I've already lost one of the "push-in" rubber bumpers that circle the hood attachment area; and getting replacement parts is like pulling your own teeth! I've previously contacted TYM in Oregon for other desired replacement parts and been told "the ships are in the water - we'll call you when they dock"!! This was months ago. I have no faith in procurement of parts. I only hope I can fabricate or cross-reference desired parts with other makes. IE..Montana.

What I was hoping for -- was that another TYM owner had, in fact, already pulled his own steering wheel and could somewhat guide me through this supposedly simple process.

All I'm asking for is some info on which/what type of puller is required? If an automotive type - I bought one - and it doesn't appear to be the correct tool? Am I misunderstanding how to operate this simple device? If so, please enlighten me!
Thanks for listening.....Greg

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I recently pulled the steering wheel on a T500 and used a regular 3 arm puller. It came off very easy.

 

[myyaz33]

Myyaz233;
Thanks for your reply/input. I had been thinking the same thing, 'cept I'm not ever so lucky! I'd surely break off one of those four tabs, then be in the river - much more deeply. Thanks for your suggestiion and I may end up attempting it.

I've already lost one of the "push-in" rubber bumpers that circle the hood attachment area; and getting replacement parts is like pulling your own teeth! I've previously contacted TYM in Oregon for other desired replacement parts and been told "the ships are in the water - we'll call you when they dock"!! This was months ago. I have no faith in procurement of parts. I only hope I can fabricate or cross-reference desired parts with other makes. IE..Montana.

What I was hoping for -- was that another TYM owner had, in fact, already pulled his own steering wheel and could somewhat guide me through this supposedly simple process.

All I'm asking for is some info on which/what type of puller is required? If an automotive type - I bought one - and it doesn't appear to be the correct tool? Am I misunderstanding how to operate this simple device? If so, please enlighten me!
Thanks for listening.....Greg

I had some spare time so I decided to pull my steering wheel. You are correct a normal puller does not seem to do the trick. The claws can't seem to get far enough underneath so they end up trying to tear the rubber. See the last picture for a good laugh but that is how I got it pulled. Not pretty but it worked. The key is even pressure on three sides. I did spray PB blaster in there at noon over my lunch today and pulled it this evening.

sorry, but this is probably not the solution you were looking for.

 

[Gregster613]

Myyaz33,
Thanks for showing me that it can be done by homeowner! I hadn't thought of that method, but it worked and I'm gonna hafta try it. Just can't understand why it's designed so difficult to be pulled. Even shop mechanics must shake there heads over this goofy mess.

If you look at pic 1 and 3, I wonder why the holes are on the underside of the hub? Those two holes (if threaded) are exactly what is needed to be seen from the top-side as to pull it properly?! I believe that was pic 2, mine is the same -- no holes or slots inside the round rim to catch any bite onto!?That's how the style of puller I bought is supposed to do so.

I'll have to go get a three jawed puller also; it wasn't my first choice because I saw that there wasn't enough room to get the jaws underneath the wheel! It's about an 1/8" space between wheel and dash top; looks like yours is still same style as mine.
Thanks, Greg

 

[Bkjohns]

I had some warranty work done in my driveway that involved pulling the steering wheel. I think the guy just pulled it off without tools. Of course it was pretty new at the time and now might be rusted on, don't know. Good luck.

 

[ALKY]

Add to the list of problems.
285 hours

Weld in seat broke.
Hood popping open.


The problem with the hood popping open is not with the latch. It is caused by the chassis twisting. Keeping all the bolts both front and back tight helps but they seem to get back loose with a few hours of loader use. The tractor should have some bracing to tie the loader to the back of the tractor. Look at some other brands they have this. That would solve the twisting. I am going to cut some channel or angle and make some braces that will bolt in or weld to the frame for support when I have time. All the twisting of the chassis will soon cause something else to break.

You are so rite, my front frame just snapped!!! It broke through the FEL mounting holes just behind the fuel filter.I guess I will see what TYM says tomorrow.Wish me luck:confused2:

 

[tymdealer]

Greg,
I have personally pulled many steering wheels off of 233/273, and have never had a problem only tool i have ever used is a hammer to tap up on the bottom of it. Normally just remove nut and pull it off.

 

[honorbound]

Greg: Use a brass rod about 1 1/2 in in diameter 10 to 12 inches long. Remove the nut untill it is flush with the threads then have a partner pull up on the steering wheel keeping constant pressure on it. Place the brass rod against the flush nut and strike with a heavy hammer until the steering wheel pops up. This is the way we removed most flywheels from small engines in the shop i worked at, and I used this method to remove my steering wheel. When you put back together use never sieze on the splined shaft so it doesnt rust together. The brass is softer than the steel so it wont hurt the threads.