T273 -what will be next problem?

[rgold1963]

Greg: Use a brass rod about 1 1/2 in in diameter 10 to 12 inches long. Remove the nut untill it is flush with the threads then have a partner pull up on the steering wheel keeping constant pressure on it. Place the brass rod against the flush nut and strike with a heavy hammer until the steering wheel pops up. This is the way we removed most flywheels from small engines in the shop i worked at, and I used this method to remove my steering wheel. When you put back together use never sieze on the splined shaft so it doesnt rust together. The brass is softer than the steel so it wont hurt the threads.

Resurrecting an old post here but this saved me today. My instrument gauge died on Sunday while working out where I had no tools and worse, no fuel available for miles. I was getting panicked at the end of the day that I was going to run out of fuel. Made it home though and was able to pull the panel out today once I got the **** steering wheel off! I didn't have anyone to help so I used a puller to get some upward pressure without ruining the plastic and then used a hammer on top of the puller. A few hits and the steering wheel popped off. Anti seize on the splines before I put it back together. I couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring so I put it back on the panel and turned the key on and it's working again. No idea what happened to it and the connectors didn't feel loose when I removed them.
Does anyone know if you can still get parts like a new panel for a 293hst if necessary?

 

[Gregster613]

myyaz33, It's been about ten years since I first asked about this and I've "finally" gotten around to pulling mine off. You were/are absolutely correct - it's a real pita to get off!! What should have been about a 15 - 20 minute job took almost two hours! I farted around with my 3 jaw puller, screwdrivers, and pry bars for spacers and finally got enough steady pressure on it that with a BFH to the top of the puller it popped up. It'll never be as hard to come off again as I am going to "liberally" coat the mating surfaces with anti-seize now that it's off and before it goes back on.

My hazard light switch has stopped working and I wanted to use this "off from work" time to finally get around to fixing them - not that I even use the hazard lights but my fuse is good so it has to be a poor switch contact from all the times I was pressure washing the beast when it was new new - to keep it looking new - and not like an actual 'often used' tractor really looks! You know, new owner of a brand new machine - at first wants to keep everything as new! But soon enough reality sets in and jobs come before looks! Besides, I'd like to see/check on what's all behind the cluster/dash. In fact several other contacts are being fussy when asked to be used; horn, turn lights, etc., etc., and there is the main hydraulic feed hose that runs behind the cluster that I'd like to check/ensure it's now becoming chaffed or anything.

My plan is to clean up all electrical contacts, douse with dielectric grease, and reassemble. If I don't happen to break any electrical switches unplugging them, it should be a fairly simple clean up. But, as you know - simple things often turn into complicated ones! Ha! I hope it stays simple - getting the darn steering wheel off was hard enough. But I originally asked for anyone who'd removed their wheel - you replied with actual photos of the process, and I wanted to let you know I'd finally gotten around to following/taking/using your advice. And it was entirely accurate advice!! Thanks again, Greg

 

[myyaz33]

Good to hear from you Greg. Glad to hear you are making good use of this crazy period in time to cross some things off the todo list. We are still pretty low in COVID cases out here in Nebraska, but expect to start seeing a few this week in our area. Still going to work every day for now. My tractor hours have been down a lot in the last 2 years but this spring I have plenty of things lined up for it. I really have gotten a lot out of that little tractor and am so glad I have it. Also now have a Bobcat S185 which makes certain tasks much quicker.

Hope all is well with you and your loved ones and our TBN friends.

Marty

 

[Gregster613]

Hey Marty!!! Sure good to hear from you again - Sorry it took me ten years to re-refer to the post I asked 'you for advice on' in the first place! But, yeah I've suddenly had the "extra" time to get around to things that are not immediate concerns. I am going to take the time to 'uncover' aspects of the TYM that are hidden from sight.

Like the fact that my manual shows 3 relays down under the lower dash cover? But not accessible from the engine side?!! If they are "in fact" there,,,-what a CRAZY place to put them??!! Unless that is a direct excuse for a TYM owner to "have" to take his tractor to a dealer for an "enormous" repair bill cost as the labor at a shop would be HUGH! To replace a $10.00 relay. Ha! If so, they were devious in their thoughts.

At any rate, I just wanted you to know you were absolutely correct in the pita it is to remove the steering wheel! I noticed once mine was off that there are 2 drilled/tapped holes - that I "assume" are for a wheel remover - located on the (underneath) side!! How dumb is that! Probably put together at the factory upside down and NO one noticed!! If I discover any other nuances I'll be sure to post. I do love my tractor, but it's sure got some quirky things that pop up with it. As do all others I'm sure.

I'm not gonna be a COVID nanny, but you should be real careful at work my friend - this thing is nasty, thirsty for victims, and very SNEAKY in its approach. It seems to be doubling in days! Shaking hands "USED" to be a way of life...not so any longer. 2 weeks before symptoms even appear, so no can tell where/when/whom you might catch it from. Gotta work if you can; I agree and I even miss working considerably - but I like living even better!
Stay safe. Greg