Alternator not charging battery. Alternator, battery, and fuses all check out fine.

[HarryN]

wow... a lot of advise from well-meaning folk, but it seems not everybody is reading what the OP has already done...
1. New battery last fall and just tested. When fully charged, it is good enough to start the tractor, so I wouldn't suspect a problem with battery cables at either end. It bothers me that the battery voltage goes down so rapidly after the tractor is started... should last for hours, the only load should be the fuel pump ?

She never started the tractor with the battery she said "I am having to jump the battery on the tractor each time to get it to start"

 

[Coyote machine]

wow... a lot of advise from well-meaning folk, but it seems not everybody is reading what the OP has already done...
1. New battery last fall and just tested. When fully charged, it is good enough to start the tractor, so I wouldn't suspect a problem with battery cables at either end. It bothers me that the battery voltage goes down so rapidly after the tractor is started... should last for hours, the only load should be the fuel pump ?

She never started the tractor with the battery she said "I am having to jump the battery on the tractor each time to get it to start"

Good point! Further leads to the overcycled battery being DEAD as a result of a charging system fault. It takes a static charge and immediately looses it when the tractor is running without even a load on the battery. The charging system hasn't put any voltage back to the battery in quite some time. It's finally bit the bullet....time for a new one then find the charging system malfunction and solve the entire problem. One step at a time.

To the OP: Please post the link to the service manual for downloading along with the exact model # of your tractor, and if it's manual or hydro transmission. Thx.

Any way you can get your money back from the i@7%T who came to your house? It's really outrageous especially since he didn't help you with the problem at all!:thumbsdown:

 

[uglyboywith11fingers]

My bad, Harry... in re-reading the OP`s post 5, I guess I assumed that she had started the tractor using only the tractors battery after charging it for 3.5 hours. Always best not to ASSUME !
It would certainly point to a bad battery if indeed it would NOT start the tractor after being charged for 3.5 hours.

Either way, though... IMO there is something wrong in the charging circuitry.

Pete

 

[uglyboywith11fingers]

My bad, Harry... in re-reading the OP`s post 5, I guess I assumed that she had started the tractor using only the tractors battery after charging it for 3.5 hours. Always best not to ASSUME !
It would certainly point to a bad battery if indeed it would NOT start the tractor after being charged for 3.5 hours.

Either way, though... IMO there is something wrong in the charging circuitry.

Pete

 

[murphy1244]

Is see we got the double post double post blues again.

 

[Coyote machine]

To the op, I found the service manual and on page 10-8 it shows the fuse box. On the next page it shows the #1 fuse as being the Battery fuse. Check it by removing it and making sure it is good. If, and hopefully this is one of the problems you are encountering, it's BAD, then replace it and see what you get for voltage at the battery. Post back results.

 

[MomNottaMechanic]

Sorry guys. I should have posted earlier in the day but it got busy. Farm, kids, store to run, etc. Time got away from me! Anyhow, I watched them test the battery again today and it tested out at the proper % to be considered good for it's age. He said it barely did but it did. However, I switched it out for a loaner battery and the tractor started on its own and holds the charge much much longer but still does start to wind down slowly and becomes more noticeable after about the 45 minute mark. Nothing as bad as before but it is there.

I did check out the #1 fuse and it shows .04 on the meter.

I shook the ground cable as suggested and there is no real difference in the readings on the meter when I do this.

I checked where the ground cable connects to the side and there is no corrosion or anything that looks odd. I also wiggled on it and it didn稚 seem to change anything when it was running.

I've got good wiring diagrams that I found in the ownerç—´ manual but am trying to go step by step as suggested. Here is a link I found to the TYM manuals: Index of /t450

My next step, I assume, is to check the voltage on the stud piece of the alternator. I値l do that after I get the kids down for the night and get some farm chores done. It will be super late but I cannot wait to get this mess figured out!

Oh, I will be visiting the guy who came out to work on the tractor tomorrow. I figure I値l wait till I know his place will be busy (first thing in the morning) and take all the kids with me. 8 kids in a waiting room should help him see the light. This will be the first time I don稚 threaten their lives for not behaving in public before entering a public establishment. Yes, I am your typical vindictive female I fear.

Thanks everyone and sorry for any confusion I might have caused. I did state that I had not been able to get it to start without jumping it each time but had also stated it would start if I charged it first. I should have clarified and been more plain spoken. Sorry about that!

Thanks again everyone! Weæ±*e newer to the internet and I must say it actually comes in handy!

 

[Coyote machine]

Sorry guys. I should have posted earlier in the day but it got busy. Farm, kids, store to run, etc. Time got away from me! Anyhow, I watched them test the battery again today and it tested out at the proper % to be considered good for it's age. He said it barely did but it did. However, I switched it out for a loaner battery and the tractor started on its own and holds the charge much much longer but still does start to wind down slowly and becomes more noticeable after about the 45 minute mark. Nothing as bad as before but it is there.

I did check out the #1 fuse and it shows .04 on the meter.

I shook the ground cable as suggested and there is no real difference in the readings on the meter when I do this.

I checked where the ground cable connects to the side and there is no corrosion or anything that looks odd. I also wiggled on it and it didn稚 seem to change anything when it was running.

I've got good wiring diagrams that I found in the ownerç—´ manual but am trying to go step by step as suggested. Here is a link I found to the TYM manuals: Index of /t450

My next step, I assume, is to check the voltage on the stud piece of the alternator. I値l do that after I get the kids down for the night and get some farm chores done. It will be super late but I cannot wait to get this mess figured out!

Oh, I will be visiting the guy who came out to work on the tractor tomorrow. I figure I値l wait till I know his place will be busy (first thing in the morning) and take all the kids with me. 8 kids in a waiting room should help him see the light. This will be the first time I don稚 threaten their lives for not behaving in public before entering a public establishment. Yes, I am your typical vindictive female I fear.

Thanks everyone and sorry for any confusion I might have caused. I did state that I had not been able to get it to start without jumping it each time but had also stated it would start if I charged it first. I should have clarified and been more plain spoken. Sorry about that!

Thanks again everyone! Weæ±*e newer to the internet and I must say it actually comes in handy!

First off, no one is worried about how long it takes for you to get back to us or how well you explain things- you're doing better than a lot of people do in explaining and understanding what's going on. And some people just don't read carefully enough to see what others are saying sometimes.

New policy: no excuses for who you are- you shouldn't have been charged anything except possibly a trip out to your house, at best. You knew nothing more when he left than when he arrived, right?
Bring ALL the kids and a few goats if you have any to spare, and let him have it!

No. You've established that the new battery is good, the charging system is NOT working and that is why your battery from Oct. is also marginally good at best. Just to be absolutely sure I'd like to see you replace the fuse marked battery with an identical fuse, 15 Amps, (I believe it was). I believe there are spares in the fuse box.
Now to find out why the alternator is not supplying needed voltage back to the battery. First I want to verify when you ran with the new battery did you use the meter to monitor the voltage at the battery posts? What readings did you get?
While you answer that I will study your service manual re the alternator. Meantime can you tell me the color of ALL the wires going to the alternator, and any leaving it to connect to something else, if any?
Thanks post back when you can.

 

[uglyboywith11fingers]

snip... You've established that the new battery is good, the charging system is NOT working and that is why your battery from Oct. is also marginally good at best....snip

I was told once by a self-described auto-electric expert that every time you run a lead-acid battery down flat, you've taken a year off it's life. If there is any truth to that, it might explain why the 'bought in October' battery is not so good.

Pete

 

[94BULLITT]

I was told once by a self-described auto-electric expert that every time you run a lead-acid battery down flat, you've taken a year off it's life. If there is any truth to that, it might explain why the 'bought in October' battery is not so good.

Pete

It is certainly not doing it any good.