Backhoe LITW backhoe on T273

[flyer91]

I'm reading about the issues that another 273 owner is having with a TYM hoe, and others that are having similar issues with the rear remotes, and I'm wondering if my issue might be of a similar root problem.

Seems like TYM has a "sometimes-fix" that doesn't instill a lot of confidence in their design/quality of workmanship ...... swap the lines. (???)
As I've indicated in this LITW saga, I have replaced relief valves, rebuilt the spools, and replaced the entire LITW valve block with it's spools and control levers intact as a complete unit, and I just keep blowing the o-rings in the LITW.
I'll swap the lines and try putting the remote's control lever in the opposite position.
If this voids my warranty, I guess that's not big deal.
Heck ...... in my case it's proven to be pretty much worthless anyway. ;-)
I can certainly understand why my dealer is offering a "just bypass the TYM altogether" option of a PTO pump and tank.
If I don't get some permanent fix I guess I will do that as it is probably a smart move if only to avoid any possibility of somthing in the hoe contaminating the oil and taking out the HST, etc.

[Tom59]

Originally Posted by flyer91

I'm reading about the issues that another 273 owner is having with a TYM hoe, and others that are having similar issues with the rear remotes, and I'm wondering if my issue might be of a similar root problem.

Seems like TYM has a "sometimes-fix" that doesn't instill a lot of confidence in their design/quality of workmanship ...... swap the lines. (???)
As I've indicated in this LITW saga, I have replaced relief valves, rebuilt the spools, and replaced the entire LITW valve block with it's spools and control levers intact as a complete unit, and I just keep blowing the o-rings in the LITW.
I'll swap the lines and try putting the remote's control lever in the opposite position.
If this voids my warranty, I guess that's not big deal.
Heck ...... in my case it's proven to be pretty much worthless anyway. ;-)
I can certainly understand why my dealer is offering a "just bypass the TYM altogether" option of a PTO pump and tank.
If I don't get some permanent fix I guess I will do that as it is probably a smart move if only to avoid any possibility of somthing in the hoe contaminating the oil and taking out the HST, etc.

BEG your local to you dealer to try out the hoe for you- pay him-. He can hook your hoe up to another brand of tractor and see what the deal is. This will eliminate the tractor or hoe as culprit.

My local dealers even though they didn't sell me my machine are very acceptable to some swaps for cash. They all seem to enjoy the cash. I'd even try a place where they rent tractors rent one and try it yourself. Half day rental should suffice?
Bout all I can think of......

If you are saying TYM is responsible for dealers hooking up hydraulic lines backwards, please. It's a fifty -fifty deal. Switching them takes- what a minute.

Your dealer is responsible for final inspections and checking everything over. Adjusting the pedals and what not...
I have honestly and literally taken stone walls a part with my machine and dug holes for septic, ditches for drainage, stumped, rocks in peoples yards, not one leak or breakage.

Also have you changed the fluids in the machine yet and HST filter? It's pretty easy , messy, but easy.

[dfkrug]

Originally Posted by flyer91

The problem is that since the LITW hoe has had O-rings replaced, then it's entire valve block replaced, then more O-rings replaced after verifying the return line is not obstructed, there is some uncertainty to exactly what/where the issue is/lies (hoe or TYM).

Sorry to hear of your ongoing problems with the LITW hoe, FLYER. That
is supposed to be well-made Korean unit.

If I had your setup, here is what I would try. First, I would plumb the
hoe return line straight to the sump. It would require a new QD fitting.
This will greatly reduce the back-pressure you are getting by returning
the hoe's fluid thru the restrictive AUX valve. Powering the hoe thru
the AUX valve is not the best setup, in my experience. My current
main tractor uses the AUX valve for the hoe, and its restriction does
cause significant oil heating if I use the hoe for more than 15 min
or so.

The best solution would be to plumb the hoe thru a power beyond port
of your FEL or AUX valve, with the return going straight to the sump.

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I have to agree with a direct return line to the sump.

[flyer91]

Thanks dfkrug!

I'll see what it takes to connect a direct line to the sump and bypass the remote's valve.
This should at least let me know where the issue lies, and is probably the best way to set it up seeing as I don't need to reverse the rear remote's flow for any of my work.

Berst regards,

Gary

[Affordable]

We sell a Korean Curved boom backhoe by Ansung a high quality unit.I'm betting that the problem is in the hydraulic plumbing from the tractor and the backhoe is getting the blame.I sold LITW for a while until I found the Ansungs and they are a good backhoe.I would bet if you isolate the hydraulics by going to a Pump and tank your problems will be over,something in the TYM 's aux, hydraulics is causing the system to dead head which in turn is blowing out the o-rings.Spend the money get the Pump & Tank combo.We do not plumb any of our backhoes off the Aux. valves, we tie into the hydraulic system or use the pump/tank kits


Tommy
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