Neutral start switch

[brucet47]

Anyone know where the neutral start switch is on the 4231? Looks like it should be around the left foot peg, but I don't see it. Having some intermittent neutral lockout starting problems. Thanks!
Bruce

 

[Raw Dodge]

On my 4231 it's between the dash and the radiator,behind the parking brake lever,just above the main hydraulic line with the coiled cooler in it.i took a picture,hope this helps

 

[brucet47]

Thanks RD. Really appreciate the picture! I tried to follow the blue wire from the starter solenoid, but lost it in the bundle. The Ventrac part diagrams are not very helpful. Been starting the unit with a jumper wire from the solenoid to the 12 volt lug on the starter which works but is less than convenient.

 

[BKBrown]

There is a tab on the Selector Lever Shaft that engages the switch - where that lever goes through the right side of the dash, mine wore the hole into an egg shape and that made the tab farther from the switch - The switch is adjustable (not the easiest to get to). The whole in the dash assembly needs a bearing surface for that lever rod.

 

[brucet47]

Thanks BK. Rather than aggravate myself with the switch adjustment I super glued a couple of thin washers to the tab (picture attached). Maybe just a band aid, however it fixed the problem for now. Also the switch is easy to jumper if I choose. I noted the lever shaft wear on my unit also.

 

[Raw Dodge]

Glad you got it going..your welcome on the picture. .I haven't noticed any excess wear but I haven't looked either..the lever used to scream when I used it..a little no sqweek fixed it up.ive never had a problem with the lever or neutral switch. .suprizingly because everything else on my machine has needed attention.

 

[BKBrown]

The B in BK is Bruce also. The wear I mentioned was on my 2004 4231 - I now have one of the last 4231 Gas, Liquid Cooled, Briggs/Daihatsu 3 cyl. that Ventrac assembled. Between the 2, I have over 1,500 hours - 900 & 600+ & that lever / switch causing a failure to start is one of the only headaches I have had.
The washers should work as long as they stick to the tab. :thumbsup:

Thanks BK. Rather than aggravate myself with the switch adjustment I super glued a couple of thin washers to the tab (picture attached). Maybe just a band aid, however it fixed the problem for now. Also the switch is easy to jumper if I choose. I noted the lever shaft wear on my unit also.
View attachment 428683

 

[brucet47]

I also own a 4100 series gas. 25 Kawasaki. 1200 hrs. I checked it out and there is just a small amount of play in the actuator. The only difference I could tell is that the brake on the 4100 is not tensioned nearly as tight as on the 4231. I backed the brake nut off some on the 4231 and the actuator now moves a lot easier into the start / brake position. Also checked on a steep hill and the brake works well in both directions. Possibly that very tight brake tension could be causing the actuator to wear prematurely. Still, there should be a bearing where the shaft passes through the bulkhead plate.

Thanks to all for your comments.

 

[Raw Dodge]

Its funny you said that Bruce my brake grabs at the very end but it still holds excellent, that probably explains why I haven't had any trouble. I have about 650 hours on my machine but the previous owner was brutal it looks more like a thousand to1500 hr machine. How do you like the 25 Kawasaki? Is it air cooled, how is the fuel economy and performance .

 

[brucet47]

I purchased the 4100 used at 600 hours, now 1200. I have had no issues with the Kawasaki 25 engine at all. It is air cooled. It does not have the vertical stack muffler so it has a good bark to it. I have a new muffler on hand to install so maybe that will help. It has good power although I use it mostly with the scoop, pesticide sprayer, electric seeder, aerovator, and rock rake so I rarely run at full throttle. Consequently can't really comment on the fuel economy other than the first couple of years, prior to the 4231TD purchase, I used it with the 60" mower and 72" rough cut and it seemed fairly efficient. It's a bit cold natured when the temps fall below freezing, but has always cranked within 20-30 seconds. The rough cut does better attached to the 4231TD when the pastures start to toughen up in July & August. Both tractors have been good performers, but as you say they do need attention. On the other hand my wifes 7 year old Hustler Z / Kawasaki 20 seems to mow year after year with oil and filter changes. Just add fuel.