Sharpening mower blades

[Machinery Poor]

Looking for a blade sharpener that will do the Ventrac blades. Ventrac sharpens about 10" of blade on each end and most blades sharpeners will only do about 6". Oregon has an "extended" sharpener but it runs about $650 not including tax and shipping. Anyone know of any machines that will do Ventrac blades? I prefer not to use angle grinder, files, etc. is Oregon the only choice?

 

[LD1]

No experience with blade sharpeners, but curious what you have against angle grinders?

 

[Machinery Poor]

No experience with blade sharpeners, but curious what you have against angle grinders?

Nothing against angle grinders, I can't seem to maintain an accurate angle with one.

 

[oosik]

Angle grinders & bastard files is all I've ever used to sharpen my mower blades. The exact angle of the grind and razor sharpness is not rocket science nor is it required. Same blades & sharpening method have been used on my mower for the last eight years. Grass gets cut just fine.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I have a Belsaw that will do what you want. Not sure of the price now. Ed

 

[rswyan]

I'm with oosik on this one.

I was thinking of making up a jig using precision ground rod and plastic bearings that was angle adjustable that I could mount an angle grinder in/on, with the grinder sliding along the rods at an angle, to sharpen mower blades ... but the more I use an angle grinder freehand, the less I am inclined to believe I need it. Just follow what's already there ... I use a Type II snagging wheel for the rough cut and then finish with a flap disc.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

$650.00 will buy a LOT of new blades!!

I use a bench grinder and it does a GREAT job...

SR

 

[pmsmechanic]

I always change the angle on my blades when I sharpen them as I don't consider the angle to be critical. I also add a small bevel on the bottom of the blade as it saves removing a lot of metal to get a sharp edge. I sharpen about three times and buy new blades as the ends are rounded off enough so that there isn't sufficient material left to grind to an edge.

I remove the blades form the mower and remove the dried up grass. I hold the blades in my vice and sharpen them. I check that they are balanced and then reinstall. I hate mowing with blades that vibrate.

 

[kthompson]

For me the best tool I have used is large belt sander. You can sharpen the length you have just by the angle you turn the blade on the belt. (I am talking about you may have to position your blade at 45% to the running belt). Now I use a wood flat bed belt sander, a Craftsman you may find used in wood worker shops. Think it is a 6 inch wide belt. User a med or so wood belt and it has worked well for me. Easy to see what is going on, does not grab the blade from you and it if you want to hold at certain angle should be easy to make one setup to for lost cost. I find it is easy to feel you are the angle of the blade is ground already.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Maybe it is just because I have thousands of hours of using an angle grinder, but I don't find it hard to maintain the angle when grinding. I started out in construction as a helper and that required using the angle grinder to bevel pipe at a 37 +or - 5 degree angle and both pipes when joined together had to be the same for the best welding conditions. Pretty soon you get good enough that all the bevels are exactly the same.

I sure wouldn't spend any money on a machine cut a bevel when with just a few hours of experience you can keep the bevels exact. Bevel angle is not critical for a mower blade, just try to keep both ends exactly alike.

I like to use the sanding disc for sharpening. They are a bit slower but more forgiving in gouging out the metal if you make a slip plus they don't heat up the blade metal as much as a solid carborundum disc.

I sharpen my blades about every 3 mowing due to all the rocks and crawfish mounds in my yard. I find that frequent sharpening doesn't require the massive removal of metal like it does when the blades get really dull (cutting edge about as thick as the blade) and keeping a sharp blade reduces the power needed to turn it AND makes for a neater looking lawn.
I use my tractor to lift the mower up so I can remove the blades and clean under the deck. An impact gun makes quick work of the bolts. I keep a spare set of blades sharpened all the time so I can change the blades in less than 5 minutes after I get it lifted up. Sometimes cleaning under the deck takes much longer than replacing the blades to remove all the mud adhering from splattered crawfish mounds.