tig with my LX235 ACDC stick Hobart?

[DavidVT]

Looking for a sanity check here.

I used to do some SS tig work with a very simple inverter setup at a previous job. It was simple scratch start stuff and no one's life depended on my welding.

As to stick welding, I am a novice. I am interested in the challenge to follow.....

I have a SS outdoor boiler that is really leaking bad. My plan is to keep limping along with it until the weather warms up here in VT. I then plan to try and find the leaks which I assume will need to be welded. This is an atmospheric boiler so no pressure vessel issues at all. The last owner let if freeze up a few times so I have a good idea the bowed sides are a tell tale sign of seams having been stressed a tad.

If I am up to the challenge, do you think my stick welder with a TIG setup will be good enough for the simple welding I need to do?

Argon bottle setup
Tig torch
SS filler rod
tungstens

Am I missing anything?

Yes, I can probably hire someone to do this minor welding but what is the fun of that?

Then again I will have to make a longer power cord to reach the boiler...
Or will that old Y2K era 5KW coleman have enough juice for 100amps DC or so? hmmmm???

Thx

 

[Number 1]

Other than contaminating your tungsten every time you scratch start and the point going away, you're fine. Weld away.

Notable mention however, amperage will be off or on. No modulation available, so that'll kinda suck.

 

[yomax4]

You can just buy some SS Stick Rods. They run like Butter and will be an easy fix compared to price to buy Tig setup. Part of your problem is that the AC/DC power supply may not turn down low enough to do a surgical job. It is easy to hook up the Tig setup however. You need the Torch and a Power Block and gas hose. 105Z57 is the power block part number for a 150 amp torch . Good Luck and have fun. ( SS Boilers seem to be more troublesome that Mild Steel because the base metal and filler metal are not exact and they heat and cool at different rates, Causes leaks eventually ) Do you know if your Base Material is 409 or 304 SS?

 

[DavidVT]

Part of your problem is that the AC/DC power supply may not turn down low enough to do a surgical job. ....... Do you know if your Base Material is 409 or 304 SS?

Thanks for the input.

RE the power supply. I assume I need DC for the power supply for the SS Stick? I have one of those cheapo walmart stick welders out in my 'lost cause' pile. I wonder if that would control well enough for the SS Stick? I will have to check but I bet it is AC.

RE the Base Material. It is 304. Here is a link from the MFG:
Specifications
I have a 1991 H2 boiler. I believe my problem is the seam at the back of the top door assy where the 'tunnel' meets the firebox. You can just make that area out on the drawing.

I am up for trying the SS stick. I will do some web searching about that now. Thx again

Found this helpful link: http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3297
309-16 for AC 309-15 for DC

 

[Sandlot]

309-15 for DC+ is for if you need to weld vertical down. 309-16 AC is all position except vertical down. It is used for joining carbon steel to stainless. You may be better off with 308-16 AC all position except vertical down.
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/consumableseries.aspx?browse=104|9743|&locale=1033

 

[killdozerd11]

Just go with the regular SMAW rod for S/S

For gas cooled tig you also need
Don't forgot a gas regulator and solenoid to shut off gas flow after delay for
post flow
The power block as mentioned to connect tig cables to your welder

it is just more of an expense than it's worth for even few uses

 

[tommu56]

I agree stick it

How are you going to get it clean to tig? the antifreeze will still be in the crack even if drained causing some contamination.

tom

PS. I'm a "gorilla welder" ugly but strong, welds that is.

 

[DavidVT]

Thanks to all for the advice.