Everlast Welders - Welders and Plasma Cutters by Everlast

[Kiotikarl]

Hi Mark
Just wondering what the difference is between de powermig 250 and the 250P. My last mig welder was a miller 211, so the pulse function is :confused3: to me.
I have also been looking at the power arc160sth for stick welding and maybe learn (or at least try ) tig welding. Is this an easy machine to use.
BTW my Powerplasma 60S is a wounderful machine, i really like using it, in the few months i have had it, i did use it more than my spectrum 375 in 2 years.
Thanks.

 

[CNC Dan]

Mark, I got a powerarc140 and I am pleased with it except it won't run 6010/6011 like I'm used to. Is there a 120/240 volt machine that will run 6010/6011 like older lo tech machines will?

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Mark, I got a powerarc140 and I am pleased with it except it won't run 6010/6011 like I'm used to. Is there a 120/240 volt machine that will run 6010/6011 like older lo tech machines will?

We don't sell the 140st for 6010. It will run 6011. I find that Lincoln fleetweld work well. Now with that said, you have to retrain your brain a little because inverters do function differently with the arc force control. Push in, when you think "pull out". That'll resolve a lot of issues, and just keep a tighter arc. I've not had any issues with 6011, but I use Lincoln. Whenever an issues is reported to me like that I suggest the Lincoln fleet welds, and that seems to help the most.

The PowerARC 200ST is designed to run 6010 and is dual voltage. That might be a unit to look at. It comes as a bare unit, without torches etc. It'll run up to 120A on 120V, but you need a heavy duty 30-40 amp breaker for it.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Hi Mark
Just wondering what the difference is between de powermig 250 and the 250P. My last mig welder was a miller 211, so the pulse function is :confused3: to me.
I have also been looking at the power arc160sth for stick welding and maybe learn (or at least try ) tig welding. Is this an easy machine to use.
BTW my Powerplasma 60S is a wounderful machine, i really like using it, in the few months i have had it, i did use it more than my spectrum 375 in 2 years.
Thanks.

Good question, because a lot of people buy pulse thinking that it's good for short circuit welding. It's not designed that way, though I suppose you can get it to to work, but I'd worry about inclusions and discontinuities.

Unless you are running axial spray, the pulse is not that helpful. Pulse spray involves the unit rapidly transitioning (20-250 times per second) between the pulse spray volt range, and the globular transfer volt range. But the unit stays in the globular transfer range long enough to keep everything from getting to hot, but doesn't transfer metal (ideally) while in the globular range. This allows you to "pulse spray" out of position somewhat, when in pure spray mode, you simply can't control it. The base units are built from a similar platform, and the functions are basically the same except that the 250 has a spot and stitch timer, and the 250P has pulse functions.

 

[CNC Dan]

We don't sell the 140st for 6010. It will run 6011. I find that Lincoln fleetweld work well. Now with that said, you have to retrain your brain a little because inverters do function differently with the arc force control. Push in, when you think "pull out". That'll resolve a lot of issues, and just keep a tighter arc. I've not had any issues with 6011, but I use Lincoln. Whenever an issues is reported to me like that I suggest the Lincoln fleet welds, and that seems to help the most.

The PowerARC 200ST is designed to run 6010 and is dual voltage. That might be a unit to look at. It comes as a bare unit, without torches etc. It'll run up to 120A on 120V, but you need a heavy duty 30-40 amp breaker for it.

I've tried and tried Mark, but the welds are so cold with such a short arc that I wouldn't trust them for any thing. I can keep a 6011 lit, but I'm touching the coating on the edge of the crater to do it. I have tried Lincolin, Forney and Hobart electrodes. They all run about the same.
I will look into the 200 ST.

 

[Shield Arc]

I don't know anything about the 140st, but I do know with the PA-200 once you get past the mind set of holding a close arc length it produces a great looking weld with 6010. I found out with my PA-200 it likes ESAB's 10P-Plus the best. I had a hard time convincing myself I could get a stack of dimes look with such a close arc length but these pictures show it can be done.

Mark do you have to hold a close arc length with the PA-300?

 

[CNC Dan]

I don't know anything about the 140st, but I do know with the PA-200 once you get past the mind set of holding a close arc length it produces a great looking weld with 6010. I found out with my PA-200 it likes ESAB's 10P-Plus the best. I had a hard time convincing myself I could get a stack of dimes look with such a close arc length but these pictures show it can be done.

Mark do you have to hold a close arc length with the PA-300?

I would love to send you my PA140, and see what you can do with it. Maybe I will if I get a PA200.

 

[CNC Dan]

mark, I can't find the 200st on the site. Got a link?

 

[Shield Arc]

If you can swing it / justify it, I'd go for the PA-300! That way you get the adjustable hot start, and adjustable arc force! The hot start doesn't mean that much to me, I've started a few rods in my time. But the adjustable arc force is the best thing since chocolate ice cream:laughing:. I use the arc force more like an inductance control more than any thing.

 

[CNC Dan]

If you can swing it / justify it, I'd go for the PA-300! That way you get the adjustable hot start, and adjustable arc force! The hot start doesn't mean that much to me, I've started a few rods in my time. But the adjustable arc force is the best thing since chocolate ice cream:laughing:. I use the arc force more like an inductance control more than any thing.

Don't need it. I have a Miller Dynasty 200 DX for the big jobs. Has all the bells and whistles and loves any type of electrode.
I like that it can take any input between 80 and 460 volts AC.
But at over $4000, I hate to take anywhere. And it's not exactly light.

I got the PA140 so I could do smallish repairs and hardfacing that my Lincoln SP 125+ couldn't do.

It's a good small light welder with a lot of power.

But 6011 is what I realy need to run, and while I can keep it lit, it's not making a proper bead.
While I had the PA140 out I thought I would try some 1/8 7024. Worked way better than it should have at 140 amps.
I also tried it with a Longevity Stickweld140 which did about as well. The only diferance between the two is the PA140 has liftstart TIG, and came with a TIG torch.

All I want though, is a welder that can run off of 120/240 and burn 6011 like an old school welder would, that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.