Adding a cylinder mount to rear blade

[Chilly807]

I removed the existing bracket for the angle cylinder on my rear blade and added a stronger one. 1/8 7014 rod at 120 amps DCEP.

A little bit of undercut, first weld of the day.

3 inch x 1/4 wall square tube.

Some 5/16 plate for bracing. Not sure what this stuff was but I think it's a higher carbon content, not as nice to weld.

Finished product less some paint.

Sean

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Nice job. I may have to steal your idea. I call it R&D.(rob and duplicate) When you extend your cyl. all the way does it go above the top factory mounting plate.
Bill

 

[Chilly807]

That's a good question, I don't know if it clears or not. I can't extend the cylinder that far, otherwise the rod end binds on the top bracket. I vee-d the bracket to make clearance enough to go at least 45 * angle on the blade. Any more angle is a waste of time anyway since the blade ends don't clear the wheel tracks beyond 45*.

It's a catch-22 situation. I could have used a shorter cylinder (mine is a 2" piston, 18" stroke) but there would have been rod exposed with the blade removed unless I chose to angle it to the extreme left. As it is, with the rod fully retracted it's about 45* left. Any more would make the blade difficult to mount. I like to keep the rod surface protected when the blade's dismounted.

If I ever have the cylinder apart for seals, etc, I'll add some stop spacers to limit the extension, until then I've got to be careful not to extend it too far.

What I did to size up what length cylinder to buy was pick the two anchor points, then measure between them at full angle each way. The short measurement will be your retracted cylinder length, the long measurement will be the retracted length plus stroke of the cylinder. I think 2" is plenty as far as power goes, I went with that size more for rod diameter than anything else. It takes very little power to move the blade, and it will bend long before the rod ever does.

Sean

 

[LD1]

I think 2" is plenty as far as power goes, I went with that size more for rod diameter than anything else. It takes very little power to move the blade, and it will bend long before the rod ever does.

Sean

It takes very little power to move the blade but what about having to hold the blade in place while in use?? What happens if you have the cylinder extended all the way (blade angled hard right), and you catch something with the left edge of the blade???? Is there any type of relief valve in your rear remote setup?? If so, it would allow the blade to reposition itself without damage, if not, a blown line is possible.

I know many people have done this to rear blades, but these have always been my concerns. I just never got in on a thread in time to ask.

 

[Chilly807]

Yes, there is a relief valve in the remote valve, set at 2000 psi. I think it will allow the pressure to relieve even with the valve centered, since to protect the implement it would have to be effective on the outlet side of the valve. Without going through the valve literature I can't say for sure.

Sean

 

[LD1]

Yes, there is a relief valve in the remote valve, set at 2000 psi. I think it will allow the pressure to relieve even with the valve centered, since to protect the implement it would have to be effective on the outlet side of the valve. Without going through the valve literature I can't say for sure.

Sean

Have you done any figuring on the geometry as to just how much force would be needed on the left side before the relief opens??

 

[LD1]

At just a quick glance it looks like you cylinder is ~8" from the center pivot of the blade. The far left edge would be 36". Or about a .22 ratio. The cylinder @2000psi is capable of a force of ~6280lbs. That would translate into a force of ~1400lbs at the left edge.

My only concern is that when doing heavy dirt work in hard clay, that the relief will constantally be opening and leting the blade return to straight. 1400lbs is not a lot. When grading along my ditch and such, with an angled blade, it isnt hard to get a good enough bite that it wants to pull the tractor sideways. When taking good bites like that I have to ride the right brake (if the blade is angled right) to prevent this. I am just afraid that this would not be possible with a hydraulic angle blade.

 

[Craig Clayton]

I added a cylinder to my blade several years ago. It was the best project for the work. I can grade and plow snow and not leave rigdes. You will have lots of fun.
Craig Clayton

 

[LD1]

I added a cylinder to my blade several years ago. It was the best project for the work. I can grade and plow snow and not leave rigdes. You will have lots of fun.
Craig Clayton

What sized cylinder did you use??

And do you have any problems trying to maintain an angle under "heavy" grading conditions. Like having a pretty good attack angle on the blade in some hard clay.

 

[mwb]

Yes, there is a relief valve in the remote valve, set at 2000 psi. I think it will allow the pressure to relieve even with the valve centered, since to protect the implement it would have to be effective on the outlet side of the valve. Without going through the valve literature I can't say for sure.

Sean

Are you sure that this will vent in the center position? Usually the relief valve is on the supply side, not on the output port. I think you are in danger of blowing it up under load as LD1 has stated.