Powerhorse
Bronze Member
Shield Arc said:
I had a small welding project at work the other day and the filler rod was nowhere to be found but that cintas wire hanger solved the problem....
Not pretty, but...
- Thread starter irvingj
- Start date
I had a small welding project at work the other day and the filler rod was nowhere to be found but that cintas wire hanger solved the problem....
crash325
Elite Member
" I have a O/A set up for cutting, and I even have the brazing torch head but have never even tried it. My buddy borrowed it years ago to do some auto panels on a restoration and left me with a couple large packages of brazing rod with white flux on them. wonder if they are still good? "
Yes they are still good. Most of the time for brazing I use plain old "Boraxo" as a flux.
Any steel wire will work as a filler. Old coat hangers were a little fatter than the new ones. Bailing wire (re-bar tie wire), coat hangers are all fine. No flux is needed. Welding flame is important, you want netural or a tiny rich, never and oxidizing flame, it will ruin your weld.
Yes they are still good. Most of the time for brazing I use plain old "Boraxo" as a flux.
Any steel wire will work as a filler. Old coat hangers were a little fatter than the new ones. Bailing wire (re-bar tie wire), coat hangers are all fine. No flux is needed. Welding flame is important, you want netural or a tiny rich, never and oxidizing flame, it will ruin your weld.
OP
irvingj
Elite Member
Finally got myself a grinder. After looking at a number of them, settled on one by Milwaukee (they used to make really good tools...).
4.5", 7 amps, nice easy lock-ON switch (or intermittent use), quick release for changing guard position, no wrench needed. Around $70.
Happy Father's Day!
4.5", 7 amps, nice easy lock-ON switch (or intermittent use), quick release for changing guard position, no wrench needed. Around $70.
Happy Father's Day!
Jeff Lary
Gold Member
Well thanks for the replys i will have to try it. Can some one explain a Netural or Tiny Rich flame ?
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Well when you start with just the acetylene feather and start to bring up your Oxy gas the outer cone starts to get shorter and shorter until it just dissapears, that is the "neutral" flame. Then if you continue to add Oxy past that point you are into the "oxygen rich area" or oxidising flame.
A carbuising flame is when you have not added enough oxy to get to a neutral flame, but have an excess of carbon from the acetylene in the flame, this carbon will combine with the molten metal and add carbon atoms to its structure.
Hope this helps.
James K0UA
A carbuising flame is when you have not added enough oxy to get to a neutral flame, but have an excess of carbon from the acetylene in the flame, this carbon will combine with the molten metal and add carbon atoms to its structure.
Hope this helps.
James K0UA
JB4310
Super Member
Well my compliments to those who can gas weld, the old black smiths had a way to weld as well I guess.
But the cost of a decent O/A outfit, along with the tanks and gas is more than a decent buzz box. Yeah coat hangers are cheaper than 7018 but over all not really saving anything and for something critical like a chain hook I wouldn't think O/A is suitable.
JB
But the cost of a decent O/A outfit, along with the tanks and gas is more than a decent buzz box. Yeah coat hangers are cheaper than 7018 but over all not really saving anything and for something critical like a chain hook I wouldn't think O/A is suitable.
JB
mjncad
Super Member
I believe the technique is called forge-welding or something similar where they beat on the pieces while its red-hot to get it to fuse together. If I recall correctly, old time sword makers used this technique to add layers to the blade for flexibility by beating the crap out of it until it was thin, then fold the metal over on itself and beat on it until it fused, and repeat as often as necessary.
OP
irvingj
Elite Member
Well, my O/A set-up was "free" in a sense, so that expense was OK.... Guess I'm just old fashioned; I see where most replacement parts for a W200 torch handle (tips, mixers, etc.) are now pretty much obsolete.
But I'm still hoping to find a #30 tip for my set- that one was missing when I inherited the set (along with my refigeration gauges & tool pouch) from my days in HVAC back in the late 80s.
mjncad- you're describing to a tee the process swordmakers used in feudal Japan for their Samurai masters. Still used today, makes an amazing edge.
But I'm still hoping to find a #30 tip for my set- that one was missing when I inherited the set (along with my refigeration gauges & tool pouch) from my days in HVAC back in the late 80s.
mjncad- you're describing to a tee the process swordmakers used in feudal Japan for their Samurai masters. Still used today, makes an amazing edge.
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
I have an uncle who is a blacksmith. He's a member of a knife guild (among other guilds), and he has told me about some of the knives that his peers have made. I guess a favorite is twisted steel cable. A guy will take the cable and heat and beat a number of times to get a folded blade with an incredible look and super strength.
This uncle has teased me a number of times that those of us who think an electric welder is the go-to for metal work haven't even scratched the surface of possibilities. My response has always been something weak like "I'd like to see you forge weld a box scraper back together in time to finish the job before you run out of daylight."
This uncle has teased me a number of times that those of us who think an electric welder is the go-to for metal work haven't even scratched the surface of possibilities. My response has always been something weak like "I'd like to see you forge weld a box scraper back together in time to finish the job before you run out of daylight."