Pulse VS Short circuit MIG break test.

[LD1]

This is kind of an addition to my other thread, But I thought I'd start a new one.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/220289-school-me-pulse-mig-welding.html

I welded two peices of steel together. 1/4" x 2" bar stock about 6" long.

Welder is a Miller 350P using .035 ER70 wire.

The following pics are of the Short circuit welding using millers reccomended settings of 18.0V and 315 wire speed. The weld bead is ~6-1/4" long and took about 16 seconds to do (just counting in my head)

 

[LD1]

Here is the Pulse weld. Using millers recomended settings of 50 for arc length and 400 for wire speed.

This weld only took 9 seconds to do and is about 5-3/4" long.

Notice the color of the steel on the back side. Appears to have gotten hotter than the short-circuit weld. More penetration???

 

[LD1]

I couldnt get either to break in the vise with a hammer. It was a good big 8" vise but it still kept popping out. So I used a 12T Hydraulic press and layed the peices on their side. The breaks were in the weak direction. Similar to the posts on here a few months ago testing all the stick rods. (I forget wheo did them).

The peices werent easy to break, even in the press, And once folded over, had to be bent back the other way to completely break.

Heres the Short-circuit.

 

[LD1]

And heres the Pulse weld.

I think it is a stronger weld. A LOT more uniform.

Keep in mind that this is 70 series wire which IS harder and more brittle than the base metal. Not to mention that I was breaking them in the weak direction. I think both these welds would have held whatever I intended them to. And IF welded both sides, I think you could bend it back and forth several times and it wouldnt break. I think it would just bend the steel above the weld.

All questions, comments, critisizm, etc is welcome.

 

[slowzuki]

My only feedback is, in a T joint like that, the manufacturers recommendations for settings for a particular thickness for butt welds are not going to be hot enough to single pass weld it. Both did not get adequate penetration.

Reread and it sounds critical, I realize you weren't making a structural weld as there is more wrong than just the settings for it to be a proper weld, I realize the weld was just to compare the two methods using recommended settings.

In that light, the pulsed looks pretty good, a little hotter, vaguely similar to the welds our big miller wirefeeder at school would make.

 

[Shield Arc]

Similar to the posts on here a few months ago testing all the stick rods. (I forget wheo did them).

That fish scale look, (short circuit) is sure popular with the younger crowd.

I've been thinking about upgrading my Lincoln Invertec V350-Pro, with a spool gun, now you have me thinking about the model with pulse.:laughing:


Is this the thread you're talking about?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/212146-mig-break-test.html

 

[tungularafishcamp]

Thanks for doing that LD, the pulsed sure looks better IMO and is quicker, now I know why my neighbor gave me his old machine when he got a new pulsed one.

 

[LD1]

That fish scale look, (short circuit) is sure popular with the younger crowd.

I've been thinking about upgrading my Lincoln Invertec V350-Pro, with a spool gun, now you have me thinking about the model with pulse.:laughing:


Is this the thread you're talking about?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/212146-mig-break-test.html

Yep, your threads were the ones. You did all the stick rods too didnt you? 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018??

Forgive me, I didnt catch your TIG test if you did one. How did it turn out?

And that fishscale look, is actually what the two old-school welders perfer that I was talking about in the other thread:confused2:

And slowzuki, I do know that the welds didnt penetrate as well using those settings. That was juat going off the basic chart inside the cover. That way, It would be a fair comparison for the two styles. They dont have different reccomendations for vatious types of welds like my linde at home. Plus a TEE joint IS the hardest to get good penitration on. And migs dont penetrate well anyway. Their strengh mostly comes from the bead. and IF I ra a pass down the other side, I dont think I could have broken it with a 10lb sledge:confused2: All I probabally would ahve done would have bent the base metal.

 

[LD1]

Thanks for doing that LD, the pulsed sure looks better IMO and is quicker, now I know why my neighbor gave me his old machine when he got a new pulsed one.

No problem:thumbsup:

And I like the looks of the pulsed better too. And it just seems to weld nicer.

Also notice there is NO spatter on pulse mode. And especially compaired to shieldarc's mig pass in the link above. It really does leave a very clean and uniform weld.

 

[Shield Arc]

Forgive me, I didnt catch your TIG test if you did one. How did it turn out?
And that fishscale look, is actually what the two old-school welders perfer that I was talking about in the other thread:confused2:

Wow, if you consider them old school, after my statement that the younger crowd liked that fish scale look, in your eyes I'm really old school!:laughing:

Here that Tig thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/212234-tig-break-test.html