sewerzuk
Member
I threw together this short video demonstrating the setup for stick welding with a set of jumper cables and a pair of batteries. This isn't intended as a replacement for a shop welder, but it does work as a trail/roadside repair. I've used this method dozens of times to weld up link mounts, spring hangers, a cracked wheel, cracked frames, drag links, etc. There are, of course, alternate methods of mobile welders but the jumper cable/battery method is super cheap, easy to set up, and consists of tools and materials that almost everybody already has.
I do own a ready welder, but I find that I usually just toss a few sticks of welding rod in my toolbox to save on space and weight. If I know that I will be doing some welding, then I'll bring along the ready welder...but it stays in the shop and pulls spoolgun duty for my MIG welder most of the time.
Stick welding with batteries is a little different than welding with a standard stick welding power supply (AC or DC). Normally, a stick welder would be constant current...meaning that, you select and amperage and the power supply maintains that. Using batteries means that you are using a constant voltage source...the current varies based on how close you hold the welding rod to the weld puddle. Controlling electrode height is critical...it takes some practice. Because batteries are capable of supplying so much current, the rod almost never sticks like it does when welding with a conventional power supply (it can stick if the batteries are discharged, or if you have a loose connection). Even if you are an experienced stick welder, you should practice this once or twice before relying on it out on the trail.
The welding in this video was done with 1/8" 6011 rod, but others work well too. I usually just take a few sticks of 6011; it is a good general-purpose rod that works well for most types of trail repairs. If you know that you're going to be welding some cast iron, stainless, high carbon, or something else, then you should select the proper electrode...
I've seen people use coat hangers, coins, etc. as a filler rod and I've tried it a few times; but without flux, you end up with a pretty nasty bird-poopy looking weld. Its easier to be a little proactive and toss some welding rod in your toolbox...
It should be obvious, but I'll state it anyway. Wear the proper protective gear. You have 1 set of eyes...don't try to weld with a set of your favorite oakleys. Using the batteries as a power source offers its own set of risks as well...I have logged many hours of arc time using batteries as a power source and never had a problem, but keep this in mind:
-Batteries offgas an explosive mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen when being charged. A welding arc can ignite this gas and blow battery acid all over the place. Just be sure you don't weld where sparks can drop on the batteries, and you're in a well ventilated area
-A direct short across a 24v battery bank with heavy gauge jumper cables will melt battery terminals, the jumper cables, and your hand. Batteries are capable of producing more than 600 amps when fully charged...that's a LOT of current. Make sure you don't accidentally create a short when you're hooking everything up
-Disconnect the batteries from the vehicle if possible. A welding arc generates large voltage spikes and noise...although the rectifier/regulator in an alternator is fairly rugged, there are dozens of little microelectronic circuits all over the vehicle that aren't so rugged. You don't want to destroy a $1000 ECU/PCM/whatever.
-Fully discharging lead-acid batteries shortens their life significantly. If you're going to try this, make sure that you don't allow the batteries to become discharged during welding, and make sure to recharge them after you are done. Batteries will last a long time if properly cared for, even if you use them for welding.
Stick welding using standalone batteries:
Welding with jumper cables and a pair of batteries - YouTube
Stick welding using a vehicle with a 24v electrical system:
Welding with jumper cables and my Deuce and a Half - YouTube
I do own a ready welder, but I find that I usually just toss a few sticks of welding rod in my toolbox to save on space and weight. If I know that I will be doing some welding, then I'll bring along the ready welder...but it stays in the shop and pulls spoolgun duty for my MIG welder most of the time.
Stick welding with batteries is a little different than welding with a standard stick welding power supply (AC or DC). Normally, a stick welder would be constant current...meaning that, you select and amperage and the power supply maintains that. Using batteries means that you are using a constant voltage source...the current varies based on how close you hold the welding rod to the weld puddle. Controlling electrode height is critical...it takes some practice. Because batteries are capable of supplying so much current, the rod almost never sticks like it does when welding with a conventional power supply (it can stick if the batteries are discharged, or if you have a loose connection). Even if you are an experienced stick welder, you should practice this once or twice before relying on it out on the trail.
The welding in this video was done with 1/8" 6011 rod, but others work well too. I usually just take a few sticks of 6011; it is a good general-purpose rod that works well for most types of trail repairs. If you know that you're going to be welding some cast iron, stainless, high carbon, or something else, then you should select the proper electrode...
I've seen people use coat hangers, coins, etc. as a filler rod and I've tried it a few times; but without flux, you end up with a pretty nasty bird-poopy looking weld. Its easier to be a little proactive and toss some welding rod in your toolbox...
It should be obvious, but I'll state it anyway. Wear the proper protective gear. You have 1 set of eyes...don't try to weld with a set of your favorite oakleys. Using the batteries as a power source offers its own set of risks as well...I have logged many hours of arc time using batteries as a power source and never had a problem, but keep this in mind:
-Batteries offgas an explosive mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen when being charged. A welding arc can ignite this gas and blow battery acid all over the place. Just be sure you don't weld where sparks can drop on the batteries, and you're in a well ventilated area
-A direct short across a 24v battery bank with heavy gauge jumper cables will melt battery terminals, the jumper cables, and your hand. Batteries are capable of producing more than 600 amps when fully charged...that's a LOT of current. Make sure you don't accidentally create a short when you're hooking everything up
-Disconnect the batteries from the vehicle if possible. A welding arc generates large voltage spikes and noise...although the rectifier/regulator in an alternator is fairly rugged, there are dozens of little microelectronic circuits all over the vehicle that aren't so rugged. You don't want to destroy a $1000 ECU/PCM/whatever.
-Fully discharging lead-acid batteries shortens their life significantly. If you're going to try this, make sure that you don't allow the batteries to become discharged during welding, and make sure to recharge them after you are done. Batteries will last a long time if properly cared for, even if you use them for welding.
Stick welding using standalone batteries:
Welding with jumper cables and a pair of batteries - YouTube
Stick welding using a vehicle with a 24v electrical system:
Welding with jumper cables and my Deuce and a Half - YouTube