cobalt drill bits - central maine area

   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #21  
I am hopefuly going to learn how to handsharpen drill bits soon. I know an old dutch machinist/welder/electrician/sheet metal mechanic who is going to teach me some time. It will be good to know how to with all those dull dormer bits I have.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #22  
It's very basic. The only difficult part (other than insuring that the face of the wheel is dressed properly and flat) is insuring that the cutting lips are equal, when they are, the center of the web will perpindicular to the cutting edges, and of course the included angle (which is the angle the cutting edges engage the work at). That's easily obtainable using a drill bit sharpening gage.

Once you learn offhand sharpening, all your drills will stay sharp because when you use one and are done, it's off to the grinder before putting it away.

The tiny ones (the ones I can't see the lips on), I toss. The bigger ones, up to and including 2" diameter, I relieve the webs after sharpening, something that your friend can show you.

Relieving the web on a twist drill allows the chip to exit the cutting edge more easily and travel up the flute, requiring less power and less pressure and subsequently less friction and heat produced. No matter how sharp a cutting tool is, chip formation is a continuous shearing action and that produces heat.

It's the friction and heat that dulls the cutting edge.

Most quality drills will come with the web relieved in larger diameters.

Go acquire the skill and practice. Like TIG welding, it's all about repetition.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area
  • Thread Starter
#23  
off the topic of my original post, but since bed frames have become the focus, here's my experience with them:

1. i will use them only in locations where they are not subject to fatigue or impact loading. basically, if whatever i am building is meant to bounce, wiggle, have stuff dropped on it, or otherwise move in any fashion, i won't use bed frames. my reasoning for this is that i have found bed frames to sometimes crack instead of bend when failing. i prefer a gradual failure to a catastrophic failure.

not all bed frames are the same from my experience, but if you are bored, weld two pieces that are 2-4 feet long at right angles to each other, then drive one end securely into the ground so you have an upside down "L", like for a hanging sign. now take a pipe, large stick, or other implement of destruction, and hit the horizontal angle out near the end with a large amount of force. now look at the area around the welded joint. i have found that some angles tend to crack adjacent to the weld when under impact. plain a36 angles welded in that condition would just bend. if it is just going to be a stationary support that does not take any abuse, i might use bed frame angle, providing condition #2 is also satisfied.

#2 i'll use bed frame angle only if the length and hole requirements in it can be satisfied with a torch and grinder. if i need to screw, lag, or bolt it to metal, concrete, or wood, and the hole does not have to be a precision hole, i'll just pop the holes through with a cutting torch and clean it up with a grinder. if it requires precision located and sized holes, then i figure it also requires a quality grade of steel and i won't bother using a bed frame angle. band saw blades and drill bits will very quickly cost more than new a36 angle would.

standard bed frame 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 1/8 angle weighs almost exactly 1 lb per foot, so you're talking about $0.50 to $1.00 per foot for new angle, depending on where you live. always make sure to buy full 20ft lengths, as most steel supply centers charge a cutting fee, or a different rate per foot if you want a short piece. i have found that most can be convinced to lop the angles in half for free at least, so you can take them home in the truck and not have to haul a two axle trailer for 100 lb. i'm 35 miles from the closest place where i can buy a good stock of light steel, so i plan ahead and couple it with a grocery run as not to waste a trip. groceries are at least 25 miles in any direction too, so it's not a wasted trip.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #24  
At .85 carbon content, welding this very high carbon steel would require 10018low hydrogen rods or higher and some high preheat if you wanted to avoid cracking. I have used self tapping screws in bedrails before with no problem. Maybe I had some soft angle. I havent tried welding any of it, but I bet it would make some super strong shelving material. I've never seen anything that couldnt be cut with an abrasive wheel.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #25  
I fully understand the need to scrounge. :D

Just last week I 'found' a virtually unused set of neoprene industrial casters in a dumpster behind a WalMart store, so I'm guilty too.......

However, I keep on hand around 20,000 pounds give or take of structural shapes for my business and deal directly with a mill supplier. It mostly comes in in 21 foot increments.

...and the price you pay as an individual is appreciably more than what I pay because I buy quantity.

Bed rails appear to be a good alternative to retail purchases for a hobbyist.

Again, my issue is chemistry, elasticity and hardness.

I'd not want to build a load bearing or supportive fabrication from something with unknown constants.

Life and business is all about doing it for less, especially when your competition is Chinese.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #26  
At .85 carbon content, welding this very high carbon steel would require 10018low hydrogen rods or higher and some high preheat if you wanted to avoid cracking. I have used self tapping screws in bedrails before with no problem. Maybe I had some soft angle. I havent tried welding any of it, but I bet it would make some super strong shelving material. I've never seen anything that couldnt be cut with an abrasive wheel.

Just for interest sake Could you then use this metal for the cutting edge(welded over the ground engaging area) on ground engaging equipment instead of using hardening rod(kinda EXPENSIVE) to do this task.

If so you junk crows can make replacement chisel tips:p
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #27  
No, or at least not in my first hand experience because it's brittle.

Cutting edge material has to be abrasion resistant but impact resistant (ductile). bed frames are neither.

Not saying you can't, just don't be disapointed if it's less than ideal.
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #28  
Thanks for the info on the bits Lostcause,, The next time we go to Augusta I'll stop in and see if there are any left,,:thumbsup:
 
   / cobalt drill bits - central maine area #29  
Anything coming from Jersey is questionable......:laughing:

Life and business is all about doing it for less, especially when your competition is Chinese.

There's a lot of Chinese in Jersey bailing out Michigan these days..:laughing:
 
 
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