My Everlast PowerArc 300

   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #1  

Sublifer

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I thought I'd post my opinions and experience on my PA300 so far. FWIW: I was not asked to review it. I just wanted to share my opinions for those that may be on the fence considering it and want to hear what an owner has to say about it. Not sure anyone else has posted much about the PA300.

Okay, first off I am not a professional welder. In fact this is only the 3rd time I've used a stick welder. A total of maybe 45 minutes behind the stick with those first two times several years back. I do have a 120v flux core wire welder. 'Tis not scottish but its done the job. I do have about 10 or so hours behind that machine.

So, on to the PA300:
In short, this thing is nice! I haven't really pushed it with it and doubt I ever will. I ran some 5/32 6011 rod on some 1/4 plate. It was ugly for the most part but that is my own fault. Still working on holding it steady and learning and all. I started on some 1/8 6013 which was really ugly. Easy but ugly. I spent about 1.5 hours behind these electrodes and while it never yielded much good, it was a learning experience.

Before I go on, a big part of my crappy welding is that I'm currently doing it over a few pieces of 1" angle on the ground so I'm bent over it all trying to keep myself and the cables clear of the heat and trying to keep my body as well as the electrode steady. It hurt and it sucked. I will get or build a welding table when I can. Hopefully soon!

Okay so after the ugly messes with the 1st two rod types (I did manage the stack of dimes look for a couple of 2" runs with the 6011) then I pulled out some 1/8 7018. When I was able to keep myself steady I had some really good results with it. No its not perfect but again, it was a horrible balancing act the whole time. Here are some pics:
First is a shot of the welder and my work area. A few 6011 runs on those pieces I think.
PA300.jpg
Next 3 pics are some of my better 7018 runs.
7018_pic1.jpg
7018_pic2.jpg
7018_pic3.jpg

Almost forgot to mention, the 1/4 material was a 6" wide piece that I cut to 3 lengths and laid them side by side. The edges were cut really badly by torch at a scrap yard. They didn't try for clean or straight cuts at all but the steel was free... It just made it really nasty trying to put the pieces together. I thought it would be a nice challenge instead of trying to make the edges perfectly straight. Well, it sure was a challenge.

So don't be too harsh on me. I'm pretty new to stick welding. I should be able to do much better once I'm not all bent over and unbalanced. :D
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #2  
I'm sure some weldors on here will be glad to chime in on some of the contortions they had to endure and still weld. They would have loved to be able to kneel down and wend flat. :laughing:

To get some elevation you can clamp the metal pieces to a wooden table or sawhorse and weld. Just have the metal sticking out away from the wood. That is, don't weld with the welding area directly over the wood.

Keep playing with your welding and things will all come into focus. 6011 on the flat is difficult to make look good without being an expert.

7018 or 7014 should look pretty good after a bit of practice. Use just a little side-to-side motion (zigzag, or "Cs") - called "weaving".

Be sure to mention the rod, brand, size, and amperage used when posting welds. The ones you posted looked a bit "hot".
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #3  
It is hard for anybody to make welds look good on a flat piece of plate. Buy some 1/4 or 3/8 inch flatbar, cut it to 6-inch lengths, and do fillet or lap joint welds. Looks to me like every one of your welds were run too hot. I truly believe most people run 6010 / 6011 to hot. With 6010 / 6011 proper arc length and heat is the key to the stack of dimes look. Maybe with 6010 / 6011 run your arc force little on the minus side of half way.
 

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   / My Everlast PowerArc 300
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I think I ran the 5/32 6011@ 145 amps and arc force at about 1/3. The 1/8 7018 @ 115 amps and arc force just a little shy of half
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #5  
I don't think I've ever run any 5/32-inch 6011.
With 6011, 6010 play with the arc force, if you stay on the minus side it should really help with the stack of dimes look. For 7018 I run the arc force on my V350-Pro at 0.0, ( in your case dead center). Unless I'm doing open root pipe with 7018. But you're another day or two away from open root pipe with 7018;).
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Yea, I'd at least another two days from root passes on pipe. The 7018 looks a little wide because I ran the weave wide to stitch together the nasty cut edges. Filling the larger gaps was a real pain before I ran the 7018 over it.
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #7  
Your welder must run on the hot side, this hack runs 1/8 7018 at about 130 and I can't remember spatter like that. The pa200 has automatic arc force, so I don't know where that is when I'm welding. You might try turning that down and see what happens.

Ian
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Your welder must run on the hot side, this hack runs 1/8 7018 at about 130 and I can't remember spatter like that. The pa200 has automatic arc force, so I don't know where that is when I'm welding. You might try turning that down and see what happens.

Ian

I'll play with the arc force when I get a chance but I think most of that spatter was from the 6011 that I ran before the 7018.
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #9  
You're gonna get some splatter with 6010 / 6011 just the nature of the beast, but running too hot, and too long of arc length will produce more splatter than necessary.

Watch this kid, he is really good. Notice how tight of an arc length he maintains?


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHWqMC6ykEk]Watch Great Stick Welding on The Welders Lens Home Study Course - YouTube[/ame]
 
   / My Everlast PowerArc 300 #10  
Looks like good progress. You don't have to join metal to lay a bead. You can just weld a series of beads side by side, building up the thickness of the piece to get practice and learn settings. Way back in HS shop we made 4x4 pads building up several layers alternating directions with each layer. Something like this:
Todays Weld pad | Flickr - Berbagi Foto!

When you join metal, use a grinder and properly prepare the joint. There may be times when you need to weld a poorly fitted joint but when learning to weld it will just confound your results.

Have two 4.5" grinders handy. One with a grinding wheel and one with a wire brush to clean your welds up nice. The better your welds are the easier they will be to clean but the power brush is still nice to clean the whole weld area and to clean rust from metal.
 
 
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