Thoughts on this used welder?

[joshuabardwell]

... and in case anybody is wondering why I'm using 7014: it was the only 3/32 rod that they had in stock when I went looking for something thinner than 1/8". On 1/8" thick metal, I have some trouble doing butt joints without blowing through if I use 1/8" rod.

[k0ua]

... and in case anybody is wondering why I'm using 7014: it was the only 3/32 rod that they had in stock when I went looking for something thinner than 1/8". On 1/8" thick metal, I have some trouble doing butt joints without blowing through if I use 1/8" rod.

Nothing wrong with using the 7014,, it is called by some a "drag rod",, in fact if it is running right you can drag it on the workpiece without sticking. Burn it up, and you can try some 7018, 7018 is a little more difficult, and restrikes are difficult, you need to break the "corn" off of the end after you stop welding and before you commence again. You can sling it while it is hot, but I don't like to do that. I usually just let it cool for a few seconds and break it off with my thumb before resuming. On your 7014, it will typically need to be run a little hotter than say 6013 or 6011 for the same size rod. It will make a flatter weld with less of the "stack of dimes" look that 7018 will have. It will be a smooth flatter weld, and only good for flat work. It will lay down more metal faster than say 7018 or 6011 due to the iron in the flux.

James K0UA

[joshuabardwell]

On your 7018, it will typically need to be run a little hotter than say 6013 or 6011 for the same size rod.

When I bought my start-up welding supplies, I got them from a guy who no longer worked as a welder. Along with the jacket and hood, he gave me maybe 15 lbs of rods, of which, 10 lbs was 1/8" 7018. I have kind of been saving it though, because you're supposed to put it in a rod oven before using it and I don't have one of those. I guess for non-structural, non-code work it probably would work about as good as anything, but I've been holding back on it.

[Shield Arc]

10 lbs was 1/8" 7018. I have kind of been saving it though, because you're supposed to put it in a rod oven before using it and I don't have one of those. I guess for non-structural, non-code work it probably would work about as good as anything, but I've been holding back on it.

Don't get to hung up on that rule! Back when I use to build bridge false work I can't tell you how many times I had to pour water out of a can of 7018 because some carpenter type left the lid of the gang box open when it was raining. Little trick for you, place the 7018 rod in the electrode holder, stick the end of the rod to the work area, do not even try to weld, just let it set there for a few seconds. You can watch the moisture boil out of the rod. Now the rod will be nice and toasty.
Here is a link to some testing I did with 7018 that was never in a rod oven. In post #3 I state it took in the low 20s to break the same fillet weld with 7018 right out of the oven, it was actually 23 blows.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/w...reak-test.html

[CNC Dan]

... and in case anybody is wondering why I'm using 7014: it was the only 3/32 rod that they had in stock when I went looking for something thinner than 1/8". On 1/8" thick metal, I have some trouble doing butt joints without blowing through if I use 1/8" rod.

At my local ACE hardware stoes, they have a small selection of welding rods in 3/32 size.

[joshuabardwell]

Did some more work on T-joints today. I watched some videos last night and decided one thing I was doing wrong was not pulling the puddle up the vertical face. Rather, I was trying to push the puddle up the vertical face via the rod angle, while moving the rod as if it was a flat weld. I made little diagonal zig-zags, moving the rod forward and up the face, and then backwards and to the flat piece. I also held the rod slightly longer at the top, because that was what the person in the video did. I guess that's supposed to allow more filler metal to pile up at the top of the bead.





The beads are more evenly distributed between the vertical and horizontal wall than yesterday's. There is a ridiculous amount of slag inclusion and a LOT of undercut at the top of the bead (see detail below).



All welds were done DCEP 100A 1/8" E6011.

[joshuabardwell]

I did some more T-joints today, and a few lap joints. Just a bunch more junk, of course, but I finished this weld and when I went to strip the slag, the whole thing came off in one big clean strip. I looked at it and I thought, "You know. That looks like a weld." I still have some issue with undercut at the top, and probably a whole lot more issues that I don't even see, but this is probably the best looking joint I've done so far.



My 7014 is 3/32" instead of 1/8" like my 6011, so it's not apples to apples, but man the 7014 seems to run really nice. The 6011 is really hard to keep the slag out of and to make a nice smooth bead. I should try some of that 7018 I have; I hear it's pretty smooth too.

[CNC Dan]

My 7014 is 3/32" instead of 1/8" like my 6011, so it's not apples to apples, but man the 7014 seems to run really nice. The 6011 is really hard to keep the slag out of and to make a nice smooth bead. I should try some of that 7018 I have; I hear it's pretty smooth too.

Thats just the way 6011 goes. Heavy deep ripples. When you try the 7018 you can just let the flux coating rest on the metal. If you have a smart phone, miller makes a weld settings calculator that will give you the range of amps to use for different types of rods.

[Shield Arc]

You're actually coming along pretty good, the last picture of the 7014 weld is really not all that bad for the amount of time you've been welding!


Here's those calculators Dan is talking about. Remember these are only suggestions, there are so many variables to welding it's mind boggling!

Miller - Welding Calculators

[dex3361]

I did some more T-joints today, and a few lap joints. Just a bunch more junk, of course, but I finished this weld and when I went to strip the slag, the whole thing came off in one big clean strip. I looked at it and I thought, "You know. That looks like a weld." I still have some issue with undercut at the top, and probably a whole lot more issues that I don't even see, but this is probably the best looking joint I've done so far.





My 7014 is 3/32" instead of 1/8" like my 6011, so it's not apples to apples, but man the 7014 seems to run really nice. The 6011 is really hard to keep the slag out of and to make a nice smooth bead. I should try some of that 7018 I have; I hear it's pretty smooth too.

So Josh, now that you are welding some with a functioning DC welder, do you notice what we are all talking about with how much better DC welds than AC?