Stick Welding

   / Stick Welding #11  
Thanks for all the reply's and advice! I am thinking of not using the 1/8" thick square stock, I have a length of 1 1/2" solid square stock that would be much stronger but heavier.

i'd say come up with your proposed design before you trash the idea of using the 1/8" wall tubing - especially if the alternative is 1 1/2" solid square. lighter weight with a little reinforcing may well be as strong as or stronger than the solid alternative, and at a lot of weight savings. I don't know what you have for a tractor, but mine is very small - something like 850lbs lifting capacity in the bucket. because of that, when i make any attachments or modifications i want to keep the weight at a minimum, otherwise i might not be able to lift anything other than an empty bucket.

when you think of strength, section depth is generally king, and not area. think of floor stringers: a 2x8 and a 4x4 have the same theoretical gross area, but if you were using one of them for a stringer you would choose the 2x8. steel is really the same thing. the solid 1 1/2 will be better suited to avoiding damage from crumpling, but it would probably bend similar to a 2x2x1/4, which is significantly lighter. on a loader attachment frame you're talking about something roughly 4 feet wide and 16" high. that's a fairly stout frame, and depending on how you brace it it could be fine.

the biggest issue i see when using thin steel is fatigue around bolt and pin holes. in those cases i'll generally weld a thicker piece on where i have a hole in order to strengthen the section and give the bolt or pin more bearing surface. otherwise, i'll make the hole even larger and weld a sleeve in for the bolt or pin to pass through.
 
   / Stick Welding #12  
i'd say come up with your proposed design before you trash the idea of using the 1/8" wall tubing - especially if the alternative is 1 1/2" solid square. lighter weight with a little reinforcing may well be as strong as or stronger than the solid alternative, and at a lot of weight savings. I don't know what you have for a tractor, but mine is very small - something like 850lbs lifting capacity in the bucket. because of that, when i make any attachments or modifications i want to keep the weight at a minimum, otherwise i might not be able to lift anything other than an empty bucket.

when you think of strength, section depth is generally king, and not area. think of floor stringers: a 2x8 and a 4x4 have the same theoretical gross area, but if you were using one of them for a stringer you would choose the 2x8. steel is really the same thing. the solid 1 1/2 will be better suited to avoiding damage from crumpling, but it would probably bend similar to a 2x2x1/4, which is significantly lighter. on a loader attachment frame you're talking about something roughly 4 feet wide and 16" high. that's a fairly stout frame, and depending on how you brace it it could be fine.

the biggest issue i see when using thin steel is fatigue around bolt and pin holes. in those cases i'll generally weld a thicker piece on where i have a hole in order to strengthen the section and give the bolt or pin more bearing surface. otherwise, i'll make the hole even larger and weld a sleeve in for the bolt or pin to pass through.
That is good advice. Solid bars are usually not as strong as a tubing shape of even the same dimension given an adequate wall thickness. I just dont think 1/8" wall thickness is enough for even a small tractor and doubling the wall thickness wont add that much more weight, and is nothing compared to a solid bar stock.
 
   / Stick Welding
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I will be using all 1/4" thick steel now.
 
   / Stick Welding #14  
6011 root welding is for the pipeline industry not structural welding. 7018 AC would be good to use. Just be sure to bevel all of your joints so you can get full penetration. 200 amps won't burn completely through 1/4" steel.
 
   / Stick Welding #15  
6011 root welding is for the pipeline industry not structural welding. 7018 AC would be good to use. Just be sure to bevel all of your joints so you can get full penetration. 200 amps won't burn completely through 1/4" steel.

I could be wrong, but I think you'll be hard pressed to find any pipe line where the root pass is run with 6011. 6010 yes.
 
   / Stick Welding #16  
Correct, 6010. But in production type situations with new/clean metal 7018 or 7014 should suffice.
 
 
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