Small job coming up...

   / Small job coming up... #1  

Reyer Farms

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
641
Location
Lena, ms
Tractor
Mahindra 5010
Got some posts to set for gate. I know not very interesting, but it's legal, and they pay me. The land owner wants to use two livestock gates to give him 20' in clear. I usually weld a gate post with two other posts behind it ( makes a triangle) when there is no fence. I don't like sagging gates or leaning posts. Later if they want fence it can go in between the two rear posts and there is a walk through but cows etc can't get out and vehicle can't get in. I will start when everything is little dryer and post the work. What are some of your designs or ideas for a good working gate?
Jody
 
   / Small job coming up... #2  
Here's one I built about 30-years ago.
 

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The hound and bear? They are behind.
 

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   / Small job coming up...
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I see now.
 
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#6  
Pictures of small detail this morning. I do love cutting with a torch. I was kinda in a hurry so I free handed the cut outside on some horses. Not perfect circle but round about.

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Inventoried tread plate :)

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Welded the rods at the locations he gave over the phone and we're all set.
 

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Those brick columns were one of the last projects my dad did before he died. :(
 
   / Small job coming up... #10  
Got some posts to set for gate. I know not very interesting, but it's legal, and they pay me. The land owner wants to use two livestock gates to give him 20' in clear. I usually weld a gate post with two other posts behind it ( makes a triangle) when there is no fence. I don't like sagging gates or leaning posts. Later if they want fence it can go in between the two rear posts and there is a walk through but cows etc can't get out and vehicle can't get in. I will start when everything is little dryer and post the work. What are some of your designs or ideas for a good working gate?
Jody

Since it's a ranch gate then I usually build it myself. Many years ago, at least twenty, I started building ranch gates with a truss pattern. They never sag and I've had them twenty four foot wide.

The truss pattern is five rails. I like 2" pipe (2 3/8" O.D.). But 1 1/2" pipe works just as well, (1 7/8" O. D.). The intermediate verticals are staggered and that is what gives the gate its rigidity. On a twenty foot gate the bottom space, between rails four and five, will be six or seven verticals notched and fitted. Between rails thee and four there will be one less vertical. Then between rails two and three one less vertical and one less between one and two. The balance of the gate material can be schedule ten pipe or if you don't mind welding galvanized, sixteen gauge fence tubing.

The gate material should make sense. For instance the hinge upright should be schedule forty. The top rail should be schedule forty too. The hinge upright because it has all the structural stress. The top rail because it has the fewest verticals supporting it and it is the one most likely to be abused like when people or livestock decide to go over the gate instead of opening it.

As for the hinge post, you never regret digging the hinge post hole too deep. I've got hinge posts that are twelve feet plus deep. On a gate like this I would go at least six to eight feet deep and use a six inch pipe post.

If you like pipe gates with filigree I have one that has survived successfully with a five hundred pound piece of stone cut in the shape of Texas centered in it, mostly because I could.
 
 
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