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  1. #1
    Platinum Member Reyer Farms's Avatar
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    Sep 2012
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    640
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    Lena, ms
    Tractor
    Mahindra 5010

    Default Small job coming up...

    Got some posts to set for gate. I know not very interesting, but it's legal, and they pay me. The land owner wants to use two livestock gates to give him 20' in clear. I usually weld a gate post with two other posts behind it ( makes a triangle) when there is no fence. I don't like sagging gates or leaning posts. Later if they want fence it can go in between the two rear posts and there is a walk through but cows etc can't get out and vehicle can't get in. I will start when everything is little dryer and post the work. What are some of your designs or ideas for a good working gate?
    Jody

  2. #2
    Elite Member Shield Arc's Avatar
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    Jan 2009
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    4,089
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    Figuring the picking points of jelly donuts.
    Tractor
    John Deere, 4200

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    Here's one I built about 30-years ago.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -brick-columns-jpg  


    Miller Dynasty 300.
    Lincoln V350-Pro w/pulse.
    Lincoln LF-72 wire feeder.
    Lincoln SG Spool gun.

    Lincoln LN-25.
    1937 IdealArc-300.
    Everlast PowerArc 200.
    Everlast PowerArc 300.
    5 Lincoln SA-200s.
    1800 Ellis saw.
    Hypertherm Powermax 1250, CNC table.
    PROFAX Welding Positioner.
    JD2 model 3.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member Reyer Farms's Avatar
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    Sep 2012
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    640
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    Lena, ms
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    Mahindra 5010

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shield Arc View Post
    Here's one I built about 30-years ago.
    Nice work as always. Are the 2 silhouettes on the right on gate or behind it?

  4. #4
    Elite Member Shield Arc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    4,089
    Location
    Figuring the picking points of jelly donuts.
    Tractor
    John Deere, 4200

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    The hound and bear? They are behind.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -hound-cub-jpg  


    Miller Dynasty 300.
    Lincoln V350-Pro w/pulse.
    Lincoln LF-72 wire feeder.
    Lincoln SG Spool gun.

    Lincoln LN-25.
    1937 IdealArc-300.
    Everlast PowerArc 200.
    Everlast PowerArc 300.
    5 Lincoln SA-200s.
    1800 Ellis saw.
    Hypertherm Powermax 1250, CNC table.
    PROFAX Welding Positioner.
    JD2 model 3.

  5. #5
    Platinum Member Reyer Farms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    640
    Location
    Lena, ms
    Tractor
    Mahindra 5010

    Default

    I see now.

  6. #6
    Platinum Member Reyer Farms's Avatar
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    Sep 2012
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    640
    Location
    Lena, ms
    Tractor
    Mahindra 5010

    Default

    Pictures of small detail this morning. I do love cutting with a torch. I was kinda in a hurry so I free handed the cut outside on some horses. Not perfect circle but round about.

    -image-1841145695-jpg

    Inventoried tread plate

    -image-1681109639-jpg

    Welded the rods at the locations he gave over the phone and we're all set.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -image-894004654-jpg  

  7. #7
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,517
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    Quote Originally Posted by Shield Arc View Post
    Here's one I built about 30-years ago.
    Those gate post are definitely too small for those gates. They're gonna sag one of these days.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  8. #8
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    79
    Location
    Land Between the Lakes
    Tractor
    John Deere 3038e

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Fowler View Post
    Those gate post are definitely too small for those gates. They're gonna sag one of these days.

    Any year now.....

    Nice work...


    John Deere 3038e
    Kentucky

  9. #9
    Elite Member Shield Arc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4,089
    Location
    Figuring the picking points of jelly donuts.
    Tractor
    John Deere, 4200

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    Those brick columns were one of the last projects my dad did before he died.


    Miller Dynasty 300.
    Lincoln V350-Pro w/pulse.
    Lincoln LF-72 wire feeder.
    Lincoln SG Spool gun.

    Lincoln LN-25.
    1937 IdealArc-300.
    Everlast PowerArc 200.
    Everlast PowerArc 300.
    5 Lincoln SA-200s.
    1800 Ellis saw.
    Hypertherm Powermax 1250, CNC table.
    PROFAX Welding Positioner.
    JD2 model 3.

  10. #10
    Super Member
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    5,787
    Location
    Wylie, Texas
    Tractor
    JCB165HF

    Default Re: Small job coming up...

    Quote Originally Posted by Reyer Farms View Post
    Got some posts to set for gate. I know not very interesting, but it's legal, and they pay me. The land owner wants to use two livestock gates to give him 20' in clear. I usually weld a gate post with two other posts behind it ( makes a triangle) when there is no fence. I don't like sagging gates or leaning posts. Later if they want fence it can go in between the two rear posts and there is a walk through but cows etc can't get out and vehicle can't get in. I will start when everything is little dryer and post the work. What are some of your designs or ideas for a good working gate?
    Jody
    Since it's a ranch gate then I usually build it myself. Many years ago, at least twenty, I started building ranch gates with a truss pattern. They never sag and I've had them twenty four foot wide.

    The truss pattern is five rails. I like 2" pipe (2 3/8" O.D.). But 1 1/2" pipe works just as well, (1 7/8" O. D.). The intermediate verticals are staggered and that is what gives the gate its rigidity. On a twenty foot gate the bottom space, between rails four and five, will be six or seven verticals notched and fitted. Between rails thee and four there will be one less vertical. Then between rails two and three one less vertical and one less between one and two. The balance of the gate material can be schedule ten pipe or if you don't mind welding galvanized, sixteen gauge fence tubing.

    The gate material should make sense. For instance the hinge upright should be schedule forty. The top rail should be schedule forty too. The hinge upright because it has all the structural stress. The top rail because it has the fewest verticals supporting it and it is the one most likely to be abused like when people or livestock decide to go over the gate instead of opening it.

    As for the hinge post, you never regret digging the hinge post hole too deep. I've got hinge posts that are twelve feet plus deep. On a gate like this I would go at least six to eight feet deep and use a six inch pipe post.

    If you like pipe gates with filigree I have one that has survived successfully with a five hundred pound piece of stone cut in the shape of Texas centered in it, mostly because I could.

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