weld grinding tips needed

[daugen]

daugen sorry for the stupidity, I just can't post a pix.

good, I'm not crazy, I looked for one. The "advanced" features in that pic posting box can get challenging.
Make sure once you import the pic in from your pc that you check the box at the bottom. Then drag the pic to the bottom of the
box. THEN click Done. Forget any steps and you're going to grind your teeth.

 

[SHORT KID]

daugen check post # 50 I finally got a pix to post

 

[daugen]

daugen check post # 50 I finally got a pix to post

good job. Ok, from left to right, what are they: The one on the right looks like a prehistoric snow blower.
Is that IH Red?
Looks like great fun.

 

[daugen]

would appreciate some feedback on these Everlast products. The first one seems ideal for me. Both 110/220, TIG included, 160 amps and includes an optional foot pedal.
But the larger one has that special 6010 port. Is that relevant for me?
One thing I am sure of is I don't need shipbuilding or pipelining capability.
But if the 6010 rod is the one to use... but I didn't see that number mentioned by any of you,
so if it's for welding uranium or something just let me down easy...

new products:
PowerARC 160 STH
A brand new offering from Everlast, the PowerARC 160 has general purpose capability for almost all situations of repair and fabrication. Excellent for the hobbyist, farmer or professional welder.

PowerARC 200
Alongside its little brother, the portable PowerARC 200 has true commercial appeal. It can take on about any task whether pipelining, or ship building. E6010 electrodes are no problem for this unit, because of its special 6010 port that improves arc performance just for this rod. Purchase the optional TIG package and you will find a use for it about anywhere.

btw, I know we are off the grinding topic, but if you don't care, I don't....

 

[Shield Arc]

This is a very tough decision to make!
On one hand the average guy can do anything with 6011 that he can do with 6010. I personally like Hobart's 335A 6011.

If you think you'll ever need Tig, the high frequency start, and foot pedal are the way to go. But there is nothing wrong with scratch start Tig either.

Those SA-200s in my signature are some of the best stick welders ever made. The Short Hood in my avatar was designed to run 6010. My PowerArc 200 will run 6010 every bit as nice as either one of my Short Hoods. The PowerArc 200 runs 7018 as good as any welder I've ever used.

You need to figure out what will work best for you. But hey I know people who have 3 and 4 welding machines.:laughing:

 

[joshuabardwell]

I would lean more to that Everlast PA200 or the Longivity Stickweld 250. Something with some current capacity. Ask ShieldArc again, and don't let him fool you about the "just starting out hobbyist crap" He has forgotten more about welding than most of us know.

It's interesting you suggest the PA200 or the Stickweld 250. It seems to me like the leading general-purpose machine in the Everlast line right now is the PA-160STH. 160 amps should be more than enough stick for any home repair that one is going to do, and the ability to expand into foot-pedal TIG lets the machine reach down into sheet metal and do other very fine work for which stick is ill-suited. Even if a person didn't want to invest in a gas cylinder, TIG torch, pedal, etc... right now, they could use the PA-160 as a fine stick machine until one day they decided to branch out. What's your thinking for going up to 200-250 amps and leaving TIG out?

 

[SHORT KID]

daugen That one on far right is my 70's JD210, next to the left 50's suburbanite engine in the wheel, next on trailer is a David Bradley 50's 2 wheel tractor, next early 50's American Machinery 2 cycle engine, next is a 47 Montgomery Ward single wheel, behind the wind mill another Montgomery Ward walk behind 2 wheel. Everything there that is red, is IH red. As far as the Everlast welders, I have the Power Arc 200 and I like it, only did a few small things with it so far, but I have been using different rods and mostly experimenting and running beads. NOTE the colors I used on these tractors are original colors as close as I could tell from cleaning them. You mentioned a prehistoric snow blower: my 60 Gravely! The hood is off in this pix.

 

[SHORT KID]

daugen That one on far right is my 70's JD210, next to the left 50's suburbanite engine in the wheel, next on trailer is a David Bradley 50's 2 wheel tractor, next early 50's American Machinery 2 cycle engine, next is a 47 Montgomery Ward single wheel, behind the wind mill another Montgomery Ward walk behind 2 wheel. Everything there that is red, is IH red. As far as the Everlast welders, I have the Power Arc 200 and I like it, only did a few small things with it so far, but I have been using different rods and mostly experimenting and running beads. NOTE the colors I used on these tractors are original colors as close as I could tell from cleaning them. You mentioned a prehistoric snow blower: my 60 Gravely! The hood is off in this pix.

 

[daugen]

I have to power this off a 6500 watt gen with a 220 port, that puts out 27 amps,
so I don't think going over a 160 size is going to work for me.
My only objection to that unit is that it's made in China. Problem is the smaller Hobarts are too
if I'm not mistaken, you can't depend upon country of origin.

But the bottom line is the product is either built well or not, no matter where it's built.
It's all in the spec, the quality of mfg and quality control.
But if this unit costs say 450 and the same capability US made one costs a hundred bucks more,
I'll pay it. Problem is the cost is usually a lot more.

I've ruled out buying used, even something allegedly "such a deal" like this:
Lincoln Electric Arc Welder Brand New for Sale / Trade

for all I know it came out of a flooded basement. Or shall we say was never paid for...
So, going to buy new this time.

 

[daugen]

daugen That one on far right is my 70's JD210, next to the left 50's suburbanite engine in the wheel, next on trailer is a David Bradley 50's 2 wheel tractor, next early 50's American Machinery 2 cycle engine, next is a 47 Montgomery Ward single wheel, behind the wind mill another Montgomery Ward walk behind 2 wheel. Everything there that is red, is IH red. As far as the Everlast welders, I have the Power Arc 200 and I like it, only did a few small things with it so far, but I have been using different rods and mostly experimenting and running beads. NOTE the colors I used on these tractors are original colors as close as I could tell from cleaning them. You mentioned a prehistoric snow blower: my 60 Gravely! The hood is off in this pix.

What is the red one with the green wheels on the right? I don't recognize that tall red "structure"...sorry, I'm dumb here. Is that the "surburbanite" and if so, what is a suburbanite and what does it do? thanks

update: I didn't get far Googling Suburbanite, let's see a Western snow plow, and lots of city people bitching about the suburbs:
this was kind of funny.

2. Suburbanite 59 up, 19 down

The most prevalent vermin in the USA, usually indigenous to the Midwest. Recognized by the following characteristics:

-Pretending that they have lots of money, but are actually broke after spending it all trying to impress people with their McMansions, SUVs, etc.

-Love of shi++y chain "restaurants" such as Applebee's, Chili's, The Olive Garden, IHOP, etc.

-Severely lacking in social skills and intelligence, due to their refusal to interact with anyone other than their elementary/middle school classmates from 15-20 years ago.
Suburbanite: Ooh, I don't like it in the city! I might get shot or mugged or something!

City Dweller: Stay the f+++ out, we don't want you around here anyway!