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  1. #1
    Super Member daugen's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Washington NC (Inner Banks)
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740, Gravely 8199G

    Default weld grinding tips needed

    I'm not a welder, but I can refinish pretty well, and enjoy it.
    I have a decent small hand grinder, with a variety of wheels for it.
    And as you can see from this "in the door" pics, boy do I have some grinding to do.

    This is a pretty unusual Gravely wing mower due to the Kawasaki motor. I already own one with a Honda 340 motor
    on it; the Kaw is definitely a larger engine, and no longer made. Single cylinder with pressure lube and filter. And from the looks of it, pretty tired.
    But it started and ran fine, without smoke.

    I have always wanted to build a custom mowing rig for my Gravely garden tractor, with one wing out one side and one out the other.
    40+50+40 inches is nice, I also have a 60 mower that I don't use at the moment.
    And once built, with some custom bracket fab, paint it up really nice and take it to the local Grange Fair in August. There's some pretty neat stuff
    exhibited there, and while the Gravely is too new for most classes, they do have some general interest stuff brought in, whatever will please the crowd.
    Kind of worried that some kid may try to take home a souvenir, like a shift knob, but oh well.

    So I'd like to make this nice, but it will never be "like new" so as long as it doesn't look like Frankenstein's child, three coats of Gravely red will look just fine.
    But first I have to grind away. Are there any tricks? I've done this before, know I need to do this outside, because of dust and rust flying everywhere, mask and good glasses,
    but how far down do I go? The light method is just smooth off the bumps and make sure nothing is sharp. If I grind more, it will be smoother, but am I just taking
    strength out of the weld? Drew
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -p1030363-jpg   -p1030362-jpg   -p1030361-jpg   -p1030360-jpg   -p1030359-jpg  

    -p1030358-jpg   -p1030357-jpg   -p1030356-jpg  
    2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long solid bucket grapple, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mowers, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2014 JD X750 diesel garden tractor, 1968 Cub Cadet 125 under renovation, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter, DR tow behind string trimmer

  2. #2
    Platinum Member
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    Nov 2012
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    991
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    mansfield,Il
    Tractor
    john deere

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    In the second picture you have some holes to fill . The rest of your welds look good . Just make sure you stay on the weld while grinding not the metal around it . When you get the welds pretty , Then take a flap wheel and blend it in . The holes are what really show when you paint .

  3. #3
    Elite Member Shield Arc's Avatar
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    Jan 2009
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    4,479
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    Figuring the picking points of jelly donuts.
    Tractor
    John Deere, 4200

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    Looks to me like you need more fill in some areas. I always keep the grinding wheel like this picture, also keep the wheel fairly flat. Stay on the weld until the weld is the same level as the base material. Remember in most cases the weld is harder than the base material. Once the weld is ground down flat I'll use a #36-grit sanding pad, then sometimes use a #80-grit sanding pad after that. I never leave a 90-degree edge, I'll take the sanding pad and put at least a 1/16-inch wide flat spot, so the paint will stick, and not so easy to flake off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -grinding-jpg  


    Miller Dynasty 300.
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  4. #4
    Super Star Member k0ua's Avatar
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    I don't mean to be too critical or discouraging, but some of those welds (like in the second picture) look pretty wormy. Were they 6013 with an AC machine with a long arc? when you start grinding, you are liable to expose more wormholes. Try some 7018 on a DC machine or 7018AC on an ac machine and hold a close arc to see if you can make em look a bit better. As for the grinding you have been given good advice IMHO. I like to use a flap wheel when you get the majority high spots down and blend with the flap wheel. Again this is said in the spirit of "trying to help" not "trying to be mean".

    James K0UA
    James KUA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN


  5. #5
    Veteran Member deereman75's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
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    1,754
    Location
    canada
    Tractor
    1946 cockshutt 60

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    If it was my project, for the flat parts, would probably use the 7 inch, with either a fiber sanding disc or a flap wheel. You would have to be real careful, and I think I would use a small grinder for corners. I think it would be easy to make a mess with the big 7, but for me atleast the speed would be worth it, as long as you don't rush, you should be fine. If you don't have a 7, forget what I said, but keep your eye out for one, used ones are cheap, and the good ones never die.
    Never carry gasoline in your car trunk. If you do, atleast use some sort of container.
    -red green

  6. #6
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
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    8,223
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    I would use a 36 grit sanding pad for the whole grind job and just smooth it up and round the edges. I wouldn't try to make it look like it wasn't welded, just knock off the humps. You may have some areas that require more weld metal. Easy enough to do if when grinding it down, if you see you have low spots, just stop weld up the low spots and continue to smooth it out.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  7. #7
    Super Member daugen's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Washington NC (Inner Banks)
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    Kubota L5740, Gravely 8199G

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    I keep thinking about those missed spots and how I'm going to fix that.

    Here's a perfect example of stuff I want to weld, wouldn't an economical stick welder
    do this mower deck work ok?
    2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long solid bucket grapple, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mowers, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2014 JD X750 diesel garden tractor, 1968 Cub Cadet 125 under renovation, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter, DR tow behind string trimmer

  8. #8
    Bronze Member ghenges's Avatar
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    Apr 2012
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    Greensburg PA
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    Farmall

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    Quote Originally Posted by k0ua View Post
    I don't mean to be too critical or discouraging, but some of those welds (like in the second picture) look pretty wormy. Were they 6013 with an AC machine with a long arc? when you start grinding, you are liable to expose more wormholes. Try some 7018 on a DC machine or 7018AC on an ac machine and hold a close arc to see if you can make em look a bit better. As for the grinding you have been given good advice IMHO. I like to use a flap wheel when you get the majority high spots down and blend with the flap wheel. Again this is said in the spirit of "trying to help" not "trying to be mean".

    James K0UA
    Learning to lay a smooth weld eliminates most of the need for grinding.
    The 7018 rod you recommend on a DC machine is my "go to" rod for just about everything. 6013 for tacking up and for pretty down welds. 5P for root pass on very think sections. 7024 for fast fill jobs.
    All the young guys around here laugh at stick welding as old school, MIG is the way to go. I tease them MIG welding is like soldering -- like sex, I prefer full penetration and substantial heat.

    A fellow (Frank) that helped me get started welding had butt welded 100's of truck frames (with no reinforcement whatsoever), and claimed not one ever broke. The shop manager of one company he did welding for said; "If FranK butt welded coat hanger wire together I'd hang from a helicopter on that wire while they flew me across Lake Erie, that's how much faith I have in his skill".

    The 7018 isn't the best rod for out of position welding for the occasional welder. I've always said if I can roll it around on the floor, I can make it look pretty and also sound.

    My grinding tools:
    • 9 inch Milwaukee bust your balls angle grinder.
    • Several 4.5 - 5 inch Metabo angle grinders, grinding wheels, braided wire cup brushes, wafer wheels
    • 4 inch belt sander -- 60 -80 grit, makes beautiful rounded edges.

  9. #9
    Super Star Member k0ua's Avatar
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    Quote Originally Posted by daugen View Post
    I keep thinking about those missed spots and how I'm going to fix that.

    Here's a perfect example of stuff I want to weld, wouldn't an economical stick welder
    do this mower deck work ok?
    In my opinion, yes you can easily do this with a stick welder. I would use 7018 or maybe 7014 for a wider smoother looking bead. Remember 7014 usually requires more heat, and lays down faster, but produces a wider/flatter/smoother bead which may be just what you want here. I am thinking DC welder here, you did not say if you had DC capability.

    James K0UA
    James KUA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN


  10. #10
    Super Member daugen's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Location
    Washington NC (Inner Banks)
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740, Gravely 8199G

    Default Re: weld grinding tips needed

    Quote Originally Posted by k0ua View Post
    In my opinion, yes you can easily do this with a stick welder. I would use 7018 or maybe 7014 for a wider smoother looking bead. Remember 7014 usually requires more heat, and lays down faster, but produces a wider/flatter/smoother bead which may be just what you want here. I am thinking DC welder here, you did not say if you had DC capability.

    James K0UA

    I have neither, I didn't do the welding, the shop did. So I need to buy a first welder, something basic to make repairs like this. And now I know the rods to use, thanks.
    So what you see is what I got, and now I have to finish it. When I saw that big opening on the one side, I knew I had more welding to do. My first welding actually.
    So I'm a pure newbie here, but I understand good penetration.
    2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long solid bucket grapple, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mowers, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2014 JD X750 diesel garden tractor, 1968 Cub Cadet 125 under renovation, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter, DR tow behind string trimmer

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