MIG Wire Corrosion Question

[Ted Summey]

A little over a year ago I bought a flux core welder from a discount tool store. It welds fine on thicker materials but never could adjust it for auto body sheet metal. So on recommendation from a good friend and auto body guy I purchased a Millermatic 180. It welds great - it makes me a better welder. It works for my purposes which are occasional use for body work and farm repairs. BTW I also have an old Lincoln stick welder for heavier repairs ans fabrication.

My problem is the spool of wire on the MIG machine has apparently been handled/touched with dirty hands and I now have corroded finger prints on the wire. It is surface corrosion but it won't feed through the gun consistently. It binds and creates loops inside the cabinet.

Is there anyway to save the spool of wire? Am I better off recycling it and starting new? How do I prevent this in the future? Your help is appreciated.

[Morning Wood]

If you can't adjust the feed tension than ditch it or use it for tig wire. Better off replacing the coil than damaging your line

[moriboy]

I've had the same problem a time or two. Trying taking off the top few layers of wire and get below the corrosion.

[Ed of all trades]

There is a cleaner that works to some extent, comes with a felt "pad" that clips over the wire between the roll and the feed rolls. It does help and I got to the point that I used it all the time. Don't remember the name. Check your welding supply store.

[Ted Summey]

Ed of All Trades, thanks for the tip. Should have thought to do a search for welding wire cleaner. There is a pad that the wire passes through and a cleaner that workd with the pad. Miller's version is te Lube-matic of all names.

[Stimw]

I have a Miller 210 and have had problems with corrosion on the wire.
My problem is we will have a cold spell then it gets warm and condensation collects on the cold wire.
I have stopped buying 44# spools of wire and started using (I think) 10# spools.
With the Miller when it acts up I blow off the rollers and blow out the liner with compressed air and get a lot of dust/rust.
I even had the guide where the wire first feeds into get clogged up and make feeding harder. I cleaned it and was good to go.

[Shield Arc]

Depending on how much wire you're talking about. I think I'd try using a Scotch-Brite pad to remove the rust. But then again how much is your time worth, compared to the amount of wire you will loose?

Product Catalog: Abrasives 3M_US:*Scotch-Brite™ General Purpose Hand Pad 7447, 6 in x 9 in, 20 pads per box 3 boxes per case

[muddstopper]

Take a piece of scotchbrite and a clothes pin and clip it to the wire before it goes into the liner.. I have similar problems with my miller. I dont use it enought to use up the wire roll and it gets rusty. Sometimes I have spooled off several ft at a time to get thru the rusty stuff. It will weld fine for a few minutes and then start sticking. Like someone said, I wont be buying the larger rolls of wire anymore because It doesnt get used up fast enough to prevent it from rusting. I have thought about just removing the wire when the welder isnt being used and storeing it in a plastic bag, but no use in that until I use up the wire currently on the machine.

[Stimw]

I knew a guy that put a lightbulb in the wire bin to keep condensation away. I always wanted to do that but I forget about it when I'm not having problems!

[Shield Arc]

I lost a spool of wire a few years ago to one of those wild temperature swings, looked like it rained inside my shop. Now I try to put my spools of wire back in the plastic bag and in the cardboard box, then store in a locker.