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  1. #11
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    1,282
    Location
    Midwest
    Tractor
    Iseki TA 247. Husqvarna 54", Cub Zero Turn.Polaris 850 ATV's Stihl 018 026 Pro, 029, 034 Super AV, 039, 044 Mag. Stihl Pole Saw.

    Default Re: Boiler plate?

    Cool... I went to that school. Tri-Mark and Hobart are both part of ITW with Miller. I'll send you pics when I get back.

  2. #12
    Silver Member Bday's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    176
    Location
    Lucerne, IN
    Tractor
    53' Allis WD, 54' Allis WD 45, 52' allis CA, Farmall 560, 656 , 47' Deere model A , 38' Deere model A

    Default Re: Boiler plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by yomax4 View Post
    Cool... I went to that school. Tri-Mark and Hobart are both part of ITW with Miller. I'll send you pics when I get back.
    Hey Yomax what year did you go? I went in 90-91.

  3. #13
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,533
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Boiler plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bday View Post
    Any pics you might have would be good.
    I talked to my relative that is a metallurgist for the filler division that is part of the Hobart Bros welding school. I thought it was Tri Mark not sure what it is now that miller is involved. Anyway , he told me to stick with carbon steel due to the fact that chlorides in heated water react to cheap stainless steel and actually will not last very long at all. He mentioned the thermal qualities on stainless makes it more unstable or something to that effect. He said the higher quality stainless ,that would work, would make a boiler unit priced way to high to build. Anyway that was the info I got from a guy with a degree.
    Your relative is absolutely right in that Chlorides in treated water will adversely affect alloys with high chromium content like 300 series stainless and those aren't CHEAP. Also sulfides found in most ashes will cause cracks in S.S. You would be better off putting in a sacrificial carbon steel plate in the firebox that could be removed easily when the ashes finally eat it up. I would look for something that you could slide in on top of the exterior skin or better still line the firebox with fire brick or poured in place mortar for a permanent fix that should never need any repair
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  4. #14
    Silver Member Bday's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    176
    Location
    Lucerne, IN
    Tractor
    53' Allis WD, 54' Allis WD 45, 52' allis CA, Farmall 560, 656 , 47' Deere model A , 38' Deere model A

    Default Re: Boiler plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Fowler View Post
    Your relative is absolutely right in that Chlorides in treated water will adversely affect alloys with high chromium content like 300 series stainless and those aren't CHEAP. Also sulfides found in most ashes will cause cracks in S.S. You would be better off putting in a sacrificial carbon steel plate in the firebox that could be removed easily when the ashes finally eat it up. I would look for something that you could slide in on top of the exterior skin or better still line the firebox with fire brick or poured in place mortar for a permanent fix that should never need any repair
    Thanks Gary, I'm sticking with carbon steel!!!

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