Welding benches

[Gary Fowler]

I made mine with 2x2 tubing and a piece of 3/8 inch plate for the top. I would have gone thicker on the top, at least 1/2 inch, but got the 3/8 inch plate for free. I also made side panels for it to keep grinding dust and sparks from flying everywhere.View attachment 306188

As for the regular work bench, I built mine with 4x4 legs and 2x6's for the side framing and top. Have been very happy with it and it's heavy enough to not move around.

That is one seriously overbuilt table. You shouldn't have any problem with that one other moving it around might be a little strain.

 

[BukitCase]

There is a third option, but it assumes you

Have a concrete floor that was NOT poured by a drunk or an idiot
Have a FEL equipped tractor (sorta optional)
Aren't on a really tight budget

I have stacks of plywood, etc, in my shop that from time to time get in the way and need to be moved - but 2 units of plywood or more can weigh up to maybe 3 TONS...

So I looked around and found a Jet pallet jack that's rated for 8000 pounds - cost about $100 more than the usual 3-5000 pounders.

Now I'm in the process of building/modifying everything in the shop (if possible) with strong enough stringers across front and back legs that are (1) high enough to get the pallet jack under and (2) low enough to be within its limited range (about 3" to 6", mine raises to 7" IIRC)

My (soon to be) welding table was a "find" at work, where they used to allow us to buy steel scrap for $.05 a pound (yeah, that was a few years back - what can I say, I'm a pack rat :=) - all the table needs is one more stringer across the legs, it's made with 3/8" wall 3x3 angle and 5/8 thick top, about 3' x 5'. I'll add a "sidecar" on one end with grate for plasma, vise, etc, likely with several ideas stol - er, borrowed, from this site mostly - thanx everyone.

Like I said, this option isn't cheap but if you have several things in the shop you want movable, add up the cost of several sets of USABLE casters and the pallet jack looks better all the time... Steve

 

[troutsqueezer]

I'm stupid enough to weld in my wood shed. Been that stupid for thirty years and gettin' more stupid all the time. Good thing I'm not smart 'cause then I wouldn't have been able to weld all those projects over the years. :drink:

 

[daugen]

I'm stupid enough to weld in my wood shed. Been that stupid for thirty years and gettin' more stupid all the time. Good thing I'm not smart 'cause then I wouldn't have been able to weld all those projects over the years. :drink:

yeah, but you must be good....

I know my own limitations...

 

[Scooby074]

You want something moveable.. Have a look at the Miller Arcstations. Miller - ArcStation The F station is pretty portable. They arent that expensive, the smallest is under $300.Welders Direct: ArcStation 30FX Portable Table If that's too much money, you can just use is as a basis for your own design. It might be a good starting point.

My table at home is pretty substantial with a ~3/8" top. 1/2" is better. At work most are 3/4-1" tops.

Some things to add if you build your own are 2" receiver tube around the perimeter. Then you can make your attachments "modular". You can add things like a cutting deck out of expanded metal decking, a sheetmetal brake, a vise, a set of "fingers" to bend metal around etc.etc. then add or remove them as needed.

If you want it to roll, dont skimp on the casters. I cheaped out and bought ones I thought were good enough ($30 ea, imports), but they arent. I have to move it around with a pry bar. If I was to guess, with all the scrap under it, my table is probably over 1000 lbs. At least I dont have to use the caster brakes:thumbsup:

As a mount for my chain grinder

 

[Buckgnarly]

X2 on the 2" receiver tube. Here's my removable cutting area...

 

[Bday]

Here's mine. 4x4 3/8 top with 2x3 1/4 wall tubing sub frame. I built a heavy sub frame under the top in hopes to keep it from bending or wash boarding. If it does, I plan on welding a sheet of 1/2" on top of the 3/8. In the process of adding a shelf underneath.

 

[mjncad]

Lots of good ideas to pick and choose from.

 

[daugen]

Lots of good ideas to pick and choose from.

boy you bet. I like the heavy duty grate attached to the bench.
And that chain grinder post, want one of those too...:thumbsup:
And Bday's bench is just what I had in mind, but ok, this has got me thinking,
which is dangerous.

How do you keep an all steel bench from rusting without painting it?

putting the vice on the end caddy corner must have an advantage, perhaps just more
maneuvering room?

I like the home protection in the corner too...some critter is toast.

any special add-ons that a metal working table should have? I liked that rack of clamps underneath one, looks like
my woodworking clamps lined up.

appreciate all the good ideas.

 

[Scooby074]

How do you keep an all steel bench from rusting without painting it?

putting the vice on the end caddy corner must have an advantage, perhaps just more
maneuvering room?



any special add-ons that a metal working table should have? I liked that rack of clamps underneath one, looks like
my woodworking clamps lined up.

appreciate all the good ideas.

1. Dont paint the top of the bench if you want to use it as a welding bench. The best way to keep it from rusting is TO USE IT A wire wheel in a grinder or a sander (either a sander proper or a sand paper with a backing pad in a grinder) with some course paper will remove any surface rust that will appear, but in practice, if the cart is inside it doesnt rust much at all.

2. My vise is cantilevered to allow more space on the top, plus it gives me a clear path to the floor which helps in clamping tall vertical pieces.

3. The best add ons as mentioned are receiver tubes. It gives lots of future flexibility. The best time to install them is when building because you can weld them to the top in the flat position. A clamp rack is good, I have one, but its not shown in the pics.

Something else to consider is making sure that your frame is set back a few inches from the edge of the top. 99% of your clamping will be within the first 6" of this edge. If your frame is right out to the edge, it limits the ability to clamp.

Other things to consider are things like a V block for welding and working on pipe, but that can be added later assuming you have those receivers.