What caused this

   / What caused this
  • Thread Starter
#31  
When my stove top temp is below about 600 degrees, my normal burn range, my burn tubes don't glow red. A few times, I have let the stove top temp drift up north of 700 and have noticed the burn tubes start to glow. I always assumed when they said, "If any part glows red," they meant the outside. Metal starts to glow at around 900 degrees, and it's hardly unusual for the inside of the stove to get over 900.

What's your stove top temperature when your tubes are glowing?

About 800*. This is with the primary air inlet totally closed and the secondary 3/4 closed. The stove being in the basement does not warrant an air damper almost closed. I'd be burning with low fires all day if this stove were in the living room. Burning cleanly warrants a hotter fire which is a safer (creosote wise) burn. Damed both ways at this juncture I guess.
 
   / What caused this
  • Thread Starter
#32  
arrow here is a picture of key holing. When you see this you know for a fact you are getting 100 % penetration!;)

Thanks Shield. I have never seen this with my welder hence why everything I weld breaks most of the time.
 
   / What caused this #33  
When I see that, I know for a fact that I'm about to burn through!
That is what you want!;) The trick is to get the inside / backside to look as good as the outside.
 

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   / What caused this #35  
That weld looked like some 6010 or 6011 in the hands of a guy who only mig welds.

But the issue with overheating on the stoves is a problem for any steel made stove. Only cast iron stoves typically can be fired away...red or not, white hot or not. They're not as nifty and neat, but I've seen cast iron stoves cherry red and no issues...Just don't throw water on them or cool them down quickly or heat them too fast and they will last. The alternative is to build your own stove out of 1" plate.
 
   / What caused this #38  
Oh OK, hard for me to believe a Mig only weldor can run open root pipe like the pictures I posted. Mark generally doesn't pick on me to bad.:laughing:
 
   / What caused this #39  
No, I was talking about the chicken fecal matter that was supposedly a weld on the bucket posted above.
 
   / What caused this #40  
I would look at replacing the brick also . That is your first line of defense inside the stove and well , those in your picture look like they are beyond used up . We have the Quadra-fire Fire place in our 1800 sq. ft. house and we cannot even come close to getting it to hot . Designed to heat up to 3600 sq. ft. , it does real nice with smaller , less intense fires made of oak and madrone . I have seen the same thing on a small cast iron parlor stove years ago . People took out these cast iron shields that hung on the inside so they could put bigger wood inside it . To much direct heat to the sides cracked it open like yours on both sides .

I see your stove has it , ( my parents have a similar stove as yours , had it for years without issue ) , but our fireplace also that " Baffle " made out of this " Board " type stuff that is above the actual fire . Looks like Hardi backer or wonder board , but not as heavy . Also has a matting type stuff on top of that , that is about a 1" thick , thus heat does not go straight up the flue . I would consider replacing that to . We have only had our fireplace for 4 years but replaced the matting before this season . How thick or deep are them ashes ? We have a grate in ours , when ashes reach bottom of grate , we clean , thus keeping fire low in box .

In the '70's during high school , metal shop built wood stoves using mig welding then selling them to low income people for just the cost of the steel . That is until a local stove company found out they were using some of their designs and got a court order to stop .

Steel is Steel , put enough heat to it and things happen . I sure would be replacing them bricks though .

Fred H.
 
 
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