Welding without frying

[jwmorris]

I see no harm in disconnecting the battery as others have already mentioned.

But that said, I have never done so. I have welded on ATV's, tractors, cars, and trucks and never had any issues.

On a side note, (not to hijack the thread), but how exactally does disconnecting the battery isolate the computer?? I see it will isolate the batter from the welding, and isolate the computer from the battery, but how does that isolate the computer from the welding??

My help if you unhooked the cables from the battery and shorted them to one another at that point.? Like blasting caps come. Welded on hundreds of cars almost all were race cars that had cut off switches for all power that didn't shut off both sides, never had a problem.

Make sure your ground clamp doesn't have current going through bearings or anything like that. If you don't know for sure just clamp the ground to the part you are welding back on.

What kind of welder are you going to use? A fan blowing away the fumes and shielding gas of a TIG or MIG is going to give you less than ideal results.

 

[DwightD123]

Ok. Duh on the galvanized. I knew galvanized fencing. I guess since I am new to welding I'm trying to question everything rather than assume I know. Good info on the bearings. The way this hitch is mounted I feel it is part of almost everything on this bike so ill try to clamp to the new 2" square tube piece I am adding. Might be cumbersome as that piece will only be 6-8" long.

As far as the welder I'm using I know I'm gonna get blasted for this but it's all I can buy right now. It's a Chic Elec 90 Arc.
Here is the job list as I see it. Let me know if I'm missing something.

I will err on the cautious side and dc the batt cables.
Ill then build a shield of Alum foil for wires and tires etc. then
I will trace the hitch frame to see if it connects to any bearings indirectly (?)basing my clamp location on my findings.
Then ill grind off the damaged hitch recvr, clean the areas to be welded as well as the clamp location.
Next ill cut the new 2" recvr, if necessary, to match the "hole" in the hitch frame I just created. Grind the new part clean where welding will happen.
Set up a suck fan.
Then finally weld.

Sounds like a half days job at the very least. Wow.

 

[bikerdib]

I hate to have to tell you but I think building a boom pole for your tractor is pretty darn optimistic for your welder.

 

[gwdixon]

I'll say it again. You may get a better response from posting photos.

The electric path between the ground and stinger should not include bearings, etc. But electricity travels in a straight path of least resistance. Just trace the path from the ground (work) clamp to where the welding rod will engage the metal. A bearing somewhere else on the ATV will not be a problem unless it is on the path you traced.

The HF welder is a little light for heavy-duty welding. Most likely 3/32" rod is all that can be used.

Where the new hitch mates to where the broken hitch was removed should be ground out to make a "V" where it touches together. That is, grind one side like \ and the other side like /. Then the "V" can be filled with weld metal. Just running the rod on the seam where the two pieces butt together is not sufficient.

(This is why photos would help.)

 

[DwightD123]

Great info GW.. I will gladly post pics but the ATV is at the farm and I am in the city. A sad tale indeed but it's necessary if I am to make a living.
I know I am at the bottom of the heap with this welder. I would love to buy a welder that could handle Aluminum too as I have a Pole Barn door that needs repair. If you guys could help me convince my wife of a good buy for a better welder that could also handle Aluminum I can try to convince her and my checking account that I should do it. Keep in mind I will weld 4 times a year maybe.

 

[DwightD123]

The electric path between the ground and stinger should not include bearings, etc. But electricity travels in a straight path of least resistance. Just trace the path from the ground (work) clamp to where the welding rod will engage the metal. A bearing somewhere else on the ATV will not be a problem unless it is on the path you traced.

Then I think I should be ok as I can put the ground clamp pretty close to the stinger and make certain it is the most direct path. Any bearings should be a less direct and definitely further away. Thats very helpful...thanks.

Dwight

 

[DwightD123]

I really appreciate the input. When I get to this project I will post some pics and welcome the input. You guys have already been very helpful. Thanks.

 

[jagyzf]

On a side note, (not to hijack the thread), but how exactally does disconnecting the battery isolate the computer?? I see it will isolate the batter from the welding, and isolate the computer from the battery, but how does that isolate the computer from the welding??

I have never disconnected the battery and welded on trucks and farm equipment, never had an issue.

Now most computers even with the key off are still connected power wise to the battery. That is why disconnecting the battery will reset your check engine light, radio, and even the way your vehicle runs. Or at least mine do and there is a procedure for the vehicle to relearn thing. So by disconnecting the battery this should isolate them welding. In other words without the battery there is no complete circuit.

I also have heard of a couple of cars that you are suppose to change the battery "hot" by connecting a outside power source to the vehicle so it never loses voltage, or some cars call for this. Don't know if it makes a real difference or not.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Yes disconnect the battery cables and DON'T let them lay against any metal. I have not had the luck some of you have had thow I only burnt out a guage on a truck. Had the ground on the same piece of metal that I was welding too. That little welder will do a lot when you know how to use it, but it does limit you.

 

[LD1]

I still don't see how disconnecting the batt isolates the PCM from the welding voltage??? It disconnects it from the batteries 12v, but the PCM still has wires hooked to the chassis and various other sensors that may be conducting the welding voltage