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  1. #1
    Elite Member Xfaxman's Avatar
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    Default Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    Old cedar tree cutter broken blade. It is 1080 hard, 26 mm thick. About 12" x 25".

    -p3290001-jpg -p3290004-jpg -p3290005-jpg -p3290006-jpg

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Silver Member Rayster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    I would clean the steel real well and grind a chamfer to get good penetration. I would TIG weld it if possible. There are some very good welders here that can give you better advice I'm sure.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    Are you sure it's 1080? Seems odd it was welded on before. That might be why it broke. If it is 1080, that's very high carbon and you'd need preheat and post heat as well as special rods to weld it. I would do some checking on the web about welding high carbon steel. Welding Web would be a start or a specialty rod supplier.

  4. #4
    Elite Member Shield Arc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    What I found on line, was 1080 steel has a carbon content between .75 and .88.
    I scanned these pages out of a Lincoln book I have. Hopefully you can read them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -hc1-jpg   -hc2-jpg   -hc3-jpg   -hc4-jpg   -hc5-jpg  

    -hc6-jpg   -hc7-jpg  


    Miller Dynasty 300.
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    Lincoln LN-25.
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  5. #5
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    Default

    I would stick weld with Super Missle rods. I have used them to weld together die sections of HT tool steel in metal stamping dies with good success. Be sure to PH to about 600-700 before welding & have someone keep heat on the piece with a torch while you are welding if possible. After welding heat it back up to about 500 & let it cool slowly to room temp. Do this a couple of times. I have repaired a lot of punches & trim dies using this process with at least 90% success.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    Quote Originally Posted by Timm250 View Post
    I would stick weld with Super Missle rods. I have used them to weld together die sections of HT tool steel in metal stamping dies with good success. Be sure to PH to about 600-700 before welding & have someone keep heat on the piece with a torch while you are welding if possible. After welding heat it back up to about 500 & let it cool slowly to room temp. Do this a couple of times. I have repaired a lot of punches & trim dies using this process with at least 90% success.
    Set it on a charcoal fire while you work on it.
    larry
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    I have a very old set of cable cutters (like bolt cutters but the blades cross) that were my grandfathers, that one of the blades had broken off about an inch an a half of the tip.

    I took it apart, set it on a copper block and with a TIG and 4130 rod "built up" an entire new blade. Has held up for better than 10 years now.

  8. #8
    Elite Member Xfaxman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    Thanks to everyone for the good information.

    Arc weld, The manufacturer told me it was 1080 hard, they don't use it now, don't have any, can't get any, cant fix it. The bad thing is a few years ago they re-welded both sides of the end of the brace where it broke, because the weld had cracked at the blade.

    Shield Arc, I can read the pages just like if I was holding the book! Thanks for that.

    Repair is beyond my capability, so I will let you know how I get it fixed, when I get it fixed.

    Thanks everyone.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Need Advice, Would you try to weld this?

    If you can stick weld it yourself, You can also use simple LH110-18. High tensile less ductile. The Super Missile rod ( 312 Stainless ) has a tensile of approx.125k. it would work as well but then you could tig weld with it if need be. Another post stated 4130 ( Chrome Molly ) High strenght good ductillity. If the part doesn't need to flex and twist, LH110-18 would fit the repair for less money. I like the bed of coals idea. We used that method for engine blocks in critical repairs. Stays hot for hours and cools perfectly.

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