Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27
  1. #11
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    2,972
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Tractor
    Bobcat CT225

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    Quote Originally Posted by dwadec21 View Post
    You guys think it would be a good idea to weld the entire perimeter?
    I'm really out of my depth here, so my official answer is that I don't know what you should do. But I guarantee you if the frame came from the factory welded on, it would be welded all the way around, not a single bead on top. I really wonder whether you should consult with a machinist, if you haven't already, to see if there's a way to recover the existing bolt holes. Sometimes there are clever solutions that people who don't work in the business don't know about.

    I have seen posts on WeldingWeb from a guy who works in a machine shop where he pulls off some amazing (to me, at least) saves. Maybe a post there, asking for advice on the repair, would be helpful.

  2. #12
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,911
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    If you are going to weld it, you need to weld it all the way around or at least top and bottom edge. You might consider welding on a thick plate (1" )that you can tap into rather than weld the FEL frame on to the tractor or weld on some heavy nuts to the bolt locations and just fasten in to those
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  3. #13
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    7
    Location
    Beaumont, Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota B6200D

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    Quote Originally Posted by bcp View Post
    From:
    Tap and die - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


    Bottoming tap or plug tap

    The tap illustrated in the top of the image has a continuous cutting edge with almost no taper between 1 and 1.5 threads of taper is typical. This feature enables a bottoming tap to cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. A bottoming tap is usually used to cut threads in a hole that has already been partially threaded using one of the more tapered types of tap; the tapered end ("tap chamfer") of a bottoming tap is too short to successfully start into an unthreaded hole. In the US, they are commonly known as bottoming taps, but in Australia and Britain they are also known as plug taps.

    Attachment 311555
    Nice! I was only aware of the taper type die. The 2nd hole I illustrated has a partial bolt broke off into it though with nothing exposed. In fact its embedded Im guessing about 3/8 of an inch. I tried a few different extraction methods to no avail. And Im paranoid to drill top much because the engine block is what Im attaching the bolts to.

  4. #14
    Advertiser Mark @ Everlast's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,892
    Location
    South GA

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    I would think the larger problem would be welding to the tractor frame. They typically don't make this out of mild steel, and it would take specialized knowledge of the material to weld it, if at all.
    Mark Lugo
    Everlast Welders
    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/

    Need a welder? Give me a call at (877) 755-9353 ext 204!

  5. #15
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    7
    Location
    Beaumont, Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota B6200D

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark @ Everlast View Post
    I would think the larger problem would be welding to the tractor frame. They typically don't make this out of mild steel, and it would take specialized knowledge of the material to weld it, if at all.
    This may not matter, but its a small 15 HP tractor. There was a homemade weight/hitch that was welded to the front of the frame that was welded on before I removed it. May have been done by the dealer or a professional welder, but I would assume not judging the craftsmanship, or lack thereof. Just some insight.

  6. #16
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    883
    Location
    north shore MA.

    Default

    Ok. You have some stripped threads in an engine block, and a broken bolt in another.

    First lets deal with the broken bolt.
    Was it broken from side load or bending over, or was it broken from twisting?

    If from a side load, that's good. It can likely be removed without too much trouble. You might try using a cold chisel to turn it out. If you have enough bolt left, you could weld a washer to the broken end and then weld a nut to the washer. The heat from the welding will help to free the bolt too.

    Now for the stripped holes in the block. What you need is a heli- coil thread repair kit for that size thread.
    The kit will come with the right size drill and special tap. You drill out the rest of the damaged threads and then use the oversized tap to cut new threads. Then you use the installation tool to screw in the heli-coil. The coil looks like a spring, and will fit into the newly tapped hole. When in place the inside of the spring will be the same threads as the original threaded hole.
    Dan H.

  7. #17
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    705
    Location
    Columbus, Georgia
    Tractor
    Kuborta B2400, L2900, L4330; Caterpillar D3B, John Deere 455D

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    I agree with Dan H. The connection of the engine "frame" to the engine block is as critical, if not more critical, than the connection of the loader "frame" to the engine "frame". And as you explained the bolts go through clearance holes in the loader frame and engine frame into the engine block.

    And the best (almost the only) way to restore that connection between the two frames and the engine block is to fix it so that you can install new bolts and tighten them to the manufacturers specifications (or at least to specs from a bolt size table). And the only way to do that is to remove at least the loader frame, and perhaps the tractor frame, from the engine. If bolt number 3 is already "partially stripped" it is not doing much any, and you don't lose much by taking it out. With the frame(s) removed you can remove the broken bolt in one of several ways as Dan H said, and put a heli-coil in hole 3 to restore it to original strength.

  8. #18
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,549
    Location
    North of Mtl,Que,Can (Ste Adele)
    Tractor
    MT180D

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    Since the frame attaches to the block I'd suggest you want to do whatever to repair that attachment, be it helicoil or oversize bolt.
    Go to a machine shop or whatever but do it right as I suggest that by not doing so you risk that extra loads on the remaining bolt could cost you an engine block, and that will be a disaster $$ wise.

    The broken bolt with some heat *, drilled and an 'easy out' is not all that difficult and then simple replacement of broken bolt is then easy. Use graded bolt to replace and also torque all those bolts to the proper spec.
    This is why we should always check torque settings every now and then: to avoid just this sort pf problem.

    * not 'cherry red' but enough to break any bonding from rust etc, also heat causes expansion and when cooled the fit becomes a bit looser.

  9. #19
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    459

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    I am with the helicoil or thread insert crowd. If you are stuck with welding I would suggest skip welding instead of welding it solid. The reason being if your weld fails at any end it will come undone like a sipper where skip welds will fail more like buttons on your shirt. If your zipper fails, it's done but you can get by missing one button.

    Pretty much the same thing as loosing a bolt (or even several bolts) or the part falling off completely.

    You also have to factor in what is going to break next. The bolts could have been a "fuse" to keep from breaking something more serious.

  10. #20
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    459

    Default Re: Will this work? If not what will?

    To remove a broken bolt just weld a nut to what is left. The heat will expand the remaining bolt and once it cools a bit will come right out.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-26-2013, 12:51 AM
  2. Do ROPS' work when UP? Do they work when folded?
    By beppington in forum Safety
    Replies: 85
    Last Post: 10-12-2010, 10:29 PM
  3. How does a EFL work for grading and yard work???
    By cmb1998 in forum Buying/Pricing/Comparisons
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 07-08-2009, 12:27 PM
  4. Replies: 28
    Last Post: 10-24-2007, 03:26 PM
  5. Work Lights dont Work!!
    By Kubota-monkey in forum Kubota Owning/Operating
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-02-2000, 10:07 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.