Cast iron repair update..

   / Cast iron repair update.. #1  
A

Arc weld

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,872
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Tractor
MF 135
Went out to take the oil cooler off and see what I was up against. GOOD NEWS! I can thread the boss deeper. It is a separate bracket but bolts onto the bottom of the injection pump so I don't really want to take it off cause it could be a major job. I found out why it broke too. It had about 1/8" that had been broken off previously so there was nothing for the oil cooler to butt up against when the bolt was tight. Cat is known for sometimes having oddball length bolts and both of the mounting bolts had been cut shorter with a hacksaw so they wouldn't go past the threads in the boss's. Funny they never mentioned this when I had the engine completely rebuilt about 6 years ago. :rolleyes:

To repair it I was thinking about using epoxy to hold the broken piece on and then using a tap to cut the threads deeper. I could also build up the previously broken part with epoxy and file it down to the right height. I got a cheap tap to grab enough to hold the broken piece on. I'll get a better tap to finish the threads. Does this sound like a good solution and should I just run the threads deeper and leave them in the broken piece or would it better to drill them out on the broken piece since the deeper threads will hold the oil cooler on? Thanks in advance for your input!
 
   / Cast iron repair update.. #2  
Without looking at it, i would drill and tap deeper, drill out the old piece and let it just be a spacer that mates up perfectly where it broke from.
 
   / Cast iron repair update.. #3  
I think I'd try to drill and tap deeper, (be very careful doing that) but also leave the broken piece in place, and epoxy it in place for more added strength. Never done much work with epoxies, wonder if it would help to bevel the broken piece?
 
   / Cast iron repair update..
  • Thread Starter
#4  
It would help to bevel it to hold it on but I was thinking of using just enough epoxy to hold it in place where it mates up. I put some epoxy on the broken piece on the other end to see if will work against the oil cooler. I put a bolt in and wrapped masking tape around the piece to hold the epoxy. After letting it set for about an hour, I would turn the bolt so I didn't glue it in. I did this a few times while the epoxy was still soft. When I checked it this morning, I got the bolt loose pretty easy but amazingly the masking tape came right off and wasn't glued to the epoxy. The masking tape was still sticky too! It's still slightly soft but they say to give 24 hours for full cure. It seems to be stuck to the cast piece OK.
 
   / Cast iron repair update.. #5  
What brand and part number of epoxy did you use? Every once in a great while I need some epoxy, only two places around here that would carry an industrial epoxy would be Fastenal and Tacoma Screw. I wouldn't think ACE Hardware would have anything industrial!
 
   / Cast iron repair update..
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I just used the original JB weld cause you can buy it in a small package. I've had good luck with it in the past. Everything has to be real clean and you have let it set for 24 hours. Devcon makes some real good epoxy too.
 
   / Cast iron repair update..
  • Thread Starter
#8  
For what I was doing, I needed a liquid epoxy.
 
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