I am looking at this air compressor at Tractor Supply - Ingersol 2-stage

[ThomasH]

Jim -

At that short of a distance (20 feet) 10 gauge is fine - it is rated as nominal for up to 50 feet at 30 amps not in feeair (insulated). It is good to have larger cable due to starting amperages are typically 3x the running amps, and that is why the suggestion of 8 gauge is made. At the distance you are talking about 10 guage is fine.

Enjoy the new compressor - it's nicer than the one I have, which is definitely annoyingly loud.

Tom

 

[jimgerken]

I added a base to the Champion. The final installation place will be on a new shop floor with radiant floor heat, so no drilling into the slab. I knew the compressor needed stability improvement, and I wanted an easy way to lift it onto the trailer for transport to the new shop when the timing is right. So I went and got some drop pcs of 4x4 tube, and bought a new 3" channel, and welded up what you see here. Notice how nice its going to work with the tractor loader fork tines.

 

[BukitCase]

Looks really good Jim, you do nice work. I noticed you're using Nylocks so as not to compress your rubber mounts too much - not many people realize that a spring is NOT a spring if it's either stretched or compressed to the end of its travel -

I'm guessing you changed your mind about remote location after hearing how quiet a slow/large compressor can be?

I bought a Jet 8000# pallet jack a couple years ago, so anything heavy gets a similar treatment for mobility in the shop - outside, the same setup works for tractor forks (with a couple ratchet straps added, of course :=)

Interesting feet on your base, any info on source?

Also, never heard back on your lift after I posted, curious what you decided?

I'm in the middle of a similar base for a powered slip roll I found on CL last month, 4" dia. rolls 4 feet long, 1-1/2 horse reversible 240 volt motor, #70 chain drive, it was used to roll 18" wide rings 4 feet diameter out of 1 inch plate - got it for $400, I figure it won't have a problem making things like a 4' wide cleanout bucket for the 580

Speaking of projects, gotta get back into the above - again, REALLY nice work... Steve

 

[jimgerken]

Nylocks -- good catch, important point.

Yea, I found somewhere they do not really want the compressor in a freezing environment without some special provisions to heat the crankcase and pressure release valve (water ocurring normally here will make it freeze, then pump can start up under load, very tough on the motor). So bought the slowest unit I could find so I could live with the sound. Its not bad, a huge improvement over my old Puma, 3450 motor and 1450 compressor.


The feet are from computer server room raised floor parts. I found a box of these at the salvage yard about 10 years ago. They are really strong units, and quite adaptable. Some have plastic feet the slide on the floor, and others have rubber like the ones I used this time.

The lift is still "in the air". Unsure which way to go. Wait a while, have months before moving into new shop. No room for it here at home shop.

I am drooling over the description of your plate roller. I really want one of those. Also need a shear, in case you are xmas shopping for me !

 

[BukitCase]

" Also need a shear, in case you are xmas shopping for me !" Guess that means I'll need to find a deal on TWO shears :laughing: -

But for now, at least for smaller straight/angled cuts, I just bought an older Sears radial saw (wood table gone, everything else good) for $50 - Those had two tapped holes in bottom of the motor case for shipping bushings - I will use those holes to bolt on a "cradle" for my PM45 plaz torch.

I'll build a slatted cutting table from angle and 1/8" flat bar, including "upside down vee" pieces of angle to protect the table frame and elevation parts, so when I wanna cut ANY angle with the plaz I'll just put the piece up against the back fence, adjust the arm to the angle I want, adjust the height so the torch is slightly off the surface of the part, and make the cut.

Haven't thought the cradle part thru yet, but will end up so I can ALSO BEVEL thicker straight-cut parts for welding by using the saw's bevel angle. It's much quicker to do that and just "shine up" the bevel with a flap disk, than to put a deep bevel on using only a side grinder

On the roller - just saw one the same width (50") on Enco - SALE price $2857, regularly $3300 - slight difference is that theirs does "up to 16 gauge", mine does a bit thicker - not sure how thick it would do full width, but the guy demo'd it for me by running a piece of 1/4" plate about 3 feet wide thru it - one pass, radius of about 3 feet, and I never heard the motor change pitch

Sorry, after seeing that "sale", I figure a new one with 1" capabilities woulda probably run about 10 grand. (OK, gloat over) :cool2:

You're definitely ahead of me on "move-in" time, I still have about 50 yards of scraping/digging to do before pouring the slab on my 32 x 60 add-on - weather got me, there's no way I'd try to do it in this clay if it's rained recently. I tried to just WALK on the flat part the other day, and nearly ended up on my back side - don't even wanna THINK about burying a TRACTOR in that mess til it dries out... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

" Also need a shear, in case you are xmas shopping for me !" Guess that means I'll need to find a deal on TWO shears :laughing: - But for now, at least for smaller straight/angled cuts, I just bought an older Sears radial saw (wood table gone, everything else good) for $50 - Those had two tapped holes in bottom of the motor case for shipping bushings - I will use those holes to bolt on a "cradle" for my PM45 plaz torch. I'll build a slatted cutting table from angle and 1/8" flat bar, including "upside down vee" pieces of angle to protect the table frame and elevation parts, so when I wanna cut ANY angle with the plaz I'll just put the piece up against the back fence, adjust the arm to the angle I want, adjust the height so the torch is slightly off the surface of the part, and make the cut. Haven't thought the cradle part thru yet, but will end up so I can ALSO BEVEL thicker straight-cut parts for welding by using the saw's bevel angle. It's much quicker to do that and just "shine up" the bevel with a flap disk, than to put a deep bevel on using only a side grinder On the roller - just saw one the same width (50") on Enco - SALE price $2857, regularly $3300 - slight difference is that theirs does "up to 16 gauge", mine does a bit thicker - not sure how thick it would do full width, but the guy demo'd it for me by running a piece of 1/4" plate about 3 feet wide thru it - one pass, radius of about 3 feet, and I never heard the motor change pitch Sorry, after seeing that "sale", I figure a new one with 1" capabilities woulda probably run about 10 grand. (OK, gloat over) :cool2: You're definitely ahead of me on "move-in" time, I still have about 50 yards of scraping/digging to do before pouring the slab on my 32 x 60 add-on - weather got me, there's no way I'd try to do it in this clay if it's rained recently. I tried to just WALK on the flat part the other day, and nearly ended up on my back side - don't even wanna THINK about burying a TRACTOR in that mess til it dries out... Steve

Steve. What a brilliant idea. I have an extra one sitting around and will have a look at it now.

Terry

 

[Big Barn]

Oops. Didn't mean to quote entire post. Was referring to radial arm saw.

Terry

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, one thing to check - slop in the carriage can hurt accuracy, whether sawing or "plaz"ing - the older Sears saws had replaceable guide bars, newer ones went to cast-in guides to save cost.
The older replacement guide bars are NOT available from Sears any more, but they're just round rods with a flat and drilled hole at each end. Enco is one source of round rod, so if yours is the replaceable model and they're worn in the middle, there's a way around the problem.

There are adjustments for EVERYTHING on these saws, so if parts aren't worn they can be pretty accurate if set up correctly.

Another thing to watch - the original table support angles are pretty wimpy and difficult to adjust - I plan on replacing them with heavier angle, and using "barrel bolts" to make adjusters so the new table can be adjusted for even spacing thru-out the range of the arm, so torch stand-off is a constant distance.

The inverted angle iron for protection of the base/adjuster will be part of the new table. It's still just in my head at the moment, if that's confusing let me know and I'll do a sketch... Steve

 

[jimgerken]

Yea, what he said! the radial arm saw adaptation to plasma cutting is a great idea. And the saws are probably pretty commonly available, cause everybody used to own one. I will add it to the list, Thanks Steve!

 

[BukitCase]

No prob - around here, I see 'em on CL for anywhere from $35 up to a couple hundred - saw one for $150, no table, stored in a good muddy field, saw was the same color - finally found mine for $50, very slight bit of rust on the column, runs, guy's granddad had it. Kept indoors, everything works, only thing missing was the knobs for the tee handle that locks the column angle. Big deal.

I've had the 12" "commercial" sears saw since 1973, but didn't wanna part with it in the wood shop.

Working on a sketch of the table for "re-purpose", may take a while but I'll post a quick version soon as I can... Steve