7018 vs 6013 vs everything else

[dieselcrawler]

Gonna be doing some repairs to some Brush Crusher grapples at work today. Part of which will include welding on some extra gusseting. I have always used 6013 since I was a kid learning to weld, for clean materials and nice finish. However, there is a full can of 7018 there and no so much of 6013, so I am gonna play with it for the experiance. The few times I have tried to use 7018, it seems hard to strike an arc with and just not nearly as easy to use as 6013. Will report back later... and will post a few pix.

Also have a lot of 6010...


Feedback and advice welcome...

 

[Shield Arc]

I think I would use a hot glue gun before using 6013!
Couple threads for you to look over.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/211678-6013-break-test.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/211904-7018-break-test.html

 

[LD1]

I won't go as far as shield arc. I have welded many things successfully over the years with 6013. It just depends on the welder you have (ac or DC), and your skill.

The notion that 7018 is the best rod every time is silly. Some of the best qualities of 7018 are nil when you have an old box that hasn't been kept dry and preheated. For a home buzz box ac welder, 7018 is one of the last I would reccomend. 6011 or 7014 would be a better choice. But still, a good weld with 6013 is likely far better than a bad weld with 7018.

But if you are looking for something strong AND easy to run like 6013, some of the stainless alloys are great. Harris super-missel, certanium, eutectic, are a few I have. Don't here a lot about them from the pros, cause they aren't used structurally. I read somewhere its cause mfgs of those rods want to keep the alloy and flux a secret and for the aws to certify them, they have to know. Not sure if there is any truth to that?? And they are expensive.

 

[Gary Fowler]

LD1 is right to an extent, a good weld is always better than a bad one. However there is no need to put in expensive alloy rods for welding on carbon steel. The steel is weaker than most welding rods ie A36 mild steel, the grade used in all tractor implements has 36,000 PSI tensile strength whereas all welding rods have a minimum of 60,000 so the rod even with a few flaws in it is going to be stronger than the steel. What isn't accounted for in many of the rods like 7014,7024,6011,6013 is ductility. They just don't bend much prior to breaking some of them worse than others. I prefer to use 6010 for root passes to fill any gaps even on fillet welds then fill and cap with the 7018 which has better tensile and much better ductility. Even a not to well cared for 7018 can be dried by just sticking the rod and allowing it to heat up and watch for the puff of steam to come off, then break it loose and begin welding. One of my first purchases after getting my welding machine was to buy a large Phoenix Dry Rod box which stays hot 24/7 @350F with my 7018. Mine is a 300# one but 10# and 50# ones are available at reasonable cost new (Craigslist has had them used for less than $100 many times)

Just remember, The easiest thing to do is rarely the right thing to do.

 

[Shield Arc]

I use to run a lot of Super-Missile rod repairing cast steel pile driving equipment. 312 Stainless steel rod is basically the same thing, but cheaper. This piece of equipment that the red arrow is pointing to, takes a beating. We have driving pile all day, and I would stay late into the night repairing these.

 

[EMB5530]

I have always heard that 6013 is for thin steels as it does not burn through the material easily, which means it would be best not to think it would penetrate deeply in thicker steel. But if you were welding something with 6011 and wanted a clean looking finish I would think 6013 over the top would be fine if it was what you had and didn't have 7018 lying around.

What do ya'll think?

 

[R W]

I think I would use a hot glue gun before using 6013!

Have not had any problems with 6013 welds on mild steel.
7016 or 7018 are a better way to go on bulldozer, farm machinery repairs, etc, providing you have a good DC welder to run them.

 

[Shield Arc]

7016 or 7018 are a better way to go on bulldozer, farm machinery repairs, etc, providing you have a good DC welder to run them.

I don't have a lot of experience with 7018, but I gave it the ol college try with an AC buzz box.

 

[dieselcrawler]

This is what I had to start with... as you can see by the burn marks I had already started straightening the forks on the one nearest the camera.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Mock up... fitting parts to be added.





In progress...




These are the 1/4"x2" flat stock and end bars of 1/2"x3" (old brush hog blade- we recycle!) that were added.