Stick Welding 101 - AC Buzzbox and 5/32 7018

[aczlan]

I inherited Dad's Lincoln AC Tombstone (AC-225-S):

And a 10# container of Hobart 7018:


I have been playing with them, mostly making birdpoop welds.
I have done some welding with a Sears 115v mig and a Miller 211 (both with solid wire and 75/25 gas).
It might be my technique, but it seems that the stick is far easier to get "stuck" than the mig.
It seems that as soon as I can finally get it to start an arc, it sticks (possibly partly because it startles me and my hand jumps when the weld starts).
If I can get the arc to hold, I can do ok, but it sticks more times than it starts well.

Any suggestions on what I should (or shouldnt) be doing to improve my technique?

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[flusher]

Clean the parts thoroughly with your angle grinder including the mill scale.
Increase the current to stop the sticking problem.
Use two hands on the stinger if you have trouble keeping it steady.
Use a scratch start and long-arc it to keep the arc going while you decrease the gap to the proper size (1/16-1/8").
Bird poop--moving the arc too fast. Slow down to give work piece time to heat up so you get good tie-in at the edge of the puddle.

Good luck.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Get some smaller rods, 5/32" on that Lincoln tombstone is pushing it for continuous operation if you are running the right amps. You need about 150-200 amps depending on your machine setting to burn that rod (5/32 E7018) correctly.

 

[aczlan]

Clean the parts thoroughly with your angle grinder including the mill scale.
Increase the current to stop the sticking problem.
Use two hands on the stinger if you have trouble keeping it steady.
Use a scratch start and long-arc it to keep the arc going while you decrease the gap to the proper size (1/16-1/8").
Bird poop--moving the arc too fast. Slow down to give work piece time to heat up so you get good tie-in at the edge of the puddle.
Good luck.

I cleaned the parts (just like I do to weld with the MIG) and I use 2 hands, I will try more amps.

Get some smaller rods, 5/32" on that Lincoln tombstone is pushing it for continuous operation if you are running the right amps. You need about 150-200 amps depending on your machine setting to burn that rod (5/32 E7018) correctly.

Ah, the rod box says 110-230 amps, so I was running 115-160 amps. Will try more amps.

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[rankrank1]

You will be much happier with 7014 rods on that AC buzzbox. I would recommend 1/8 diameter (1/8 = 4/32) over the 5/32 until you get good and truly need the 5/32 diameter. 7014's burn sweet on an AC buzzbox.

7018AC will likely run much better than regular 7018 on an AC buzzbox too if you want to stay with the 7018 family of rod. Some AC welding sources will run plain ole 7018 and some will not. Regardless, Any old improperly stored type of 7018 gets tempermental to run if it has drawn moisture (7018 technically requires rod oven storage) and it loses many of its superior strength properties when it draws moisture too.

You could try heating a few of the rods you have in an old toaster oven (or the wife's Kitchen oven if you dare). Self clean cycle is only setting that will get hot enough by code specs but any oven heating will dry them out somewhat. Intentionally sticking a rod and letting it heat up can also burn out some moisture.

 

[Soundguy]

buy some 6011 rods to practice with getting penetration and starting.

buy some 6013 rods to practice making pretty looking welds or for top passes.

 

[arrow]

I understand you wanting to use up what you have. I think if you increase your amperage you'll get where you want to be. If indeed you use the 7018 up, I would follow the advice of getting some 7014. After which you'll hate yourself for keeping the 7018 but they'll be all gone and you can start life fresh..

 

[Gary Fowler]

I wouldn't get anything bigger than 1/8" for your machine. Unless you are welding 2" thick material and need to do it fast, there is no need for anything in low hydrogen family bigger than 1/8". Most of my welding on farm equipment is done with a 3/32 7018 that I keep hot all the time in an electrode holding oven set at 300F.
I tried some of the 6013 folks are talking about and I would give them to whoever wanted them, I like them that much. 6011 for your machine and 7018AC would be good. I really don't like 7014 as they seem to be a brittle weld and will break rather than bend but it does make a nice looking weld that almost welds itself when the machine is set to the correct amperage.

Note that when a box of rods say run between xx amps and xxx pick a point about mid way to start and work up or down from there.

 

[George2615]

Agree, get some 1/8" rod. 6011, 6013, or 7018. If you get the 1/8" you probably won't have to increase the amps. I use mostly 1/8" rod. 6013 and 7018 are my main choice of rod.

 

[aczlan]

Thanks all. I'll see if I can get some smaller stuff or 6011 after I put a longer cord on it. On the other hand, my FIL has been talking about getting a 220v mig, so we might go that route instead.

7018AC will likely run much better than regular 7018 on an AC buzzbox too if you want to stay with the 7018 family of rod. Some AC welding sources will run plain ole 7018 and some will not. Regardless, Any old improperly stored type of 7018 gets tempermental to run if it has drawn moisture (7018 technically requires rod oven storage) and it loses many of its superior strength properties when it draws moisture too.

Is what I have not 7018AC? I assumed that it was because it says "DCEP or AC" on the box.

You could try heating a few of the rods you have in an old toaster oven (or the wife's Kitchen oven if you dare). Self clean cycle is only setting that will get hot enough by code specs but any oven heating will dry them out somewhat. Intentionally sticking a rod and letting it heat up can also burn out some moisture.

I do have a toaster oven that I could tweak to run hotter ($3 at the thrift store in almost new condition). The wife just ran a cleaning cycle on the big oven last night, so that option is out for a while...

Aaron Z