Help adding 230v outlet at subpanel in the garage

[Sodo]

I want to add the 230v outlet off this garage subpanel. I am the one who put this subpanel in, it was done to "my own code" but with some luck it might be "TO CODE" .

I moved my main (house) panel, then rewired the whole house "TO CODE" (It had a mix of knob&tube, and good, some WRONG etc). That was a big job but I pretty much learned only what was needed for task at hand (which was re-wiring the whole house and passing the city electrical inspection). I had good help and passed city inspection on the first try, but that was 14 years ago. At that time the (detached) garage was not powered, thus not involved in the inspection.

Then later I added in a few "double 115v breakers" to clear out a couple slots for the double 30A (230v). And ran a 10-4 out to the garage & added this subpanel. Garage subpanel has:

- a 15A breaker running 2 outside GFCI outlets
- a 15A breaker for lights
- a 20A breaker for outlets

Continuing as before, I could add a double 30A type QP breaker pair to supply the 230v outlet. But a 2nd 30A breaker on a 30A circuit is a waste of money, so how is this done?

Edited pic - the BLACK leg of 230v supply attaches to the bus beneath the 20A breaker.

But I'm curious if there is a way that this can be done "to code" or curious how close I can get. I suppose it may have to be torn out to sell the house but that's not my concern at the moment. Mainly want it to work, and be safe. My usage will not have a lot of electrical usage at once just one thing at a time. Understood "CODE" does not consider MY intended usage.

So, the question is, whats the best way to tap a 230A outlet into this subpanel?

 

[eddie48]

I want to add the 230v outlet off this subpanel. I am the one who put this subpanel in, it was done to "my own code" but with some luck it might be "TO CODE" .

I moved my main (house) panel, then rewired the whole house "TO CODE" (It had a mix of knob&tube, and good, some WRONG etc). That was a big job but I pretty much learned only what was needed for task at hand (which was re-wiring the whole house and passing the city electrical inspection). I had good help and passed city inspection on the first try, but that was 14 years ago. At that time the (detached) garage was not powered, thus not involved in the inspection.

Then later I added in a few "double 115v breakers" to clear out a couple slots for the double 30A (230v). And ran a 10-4 out to the garage & added this subpanel. Garage subpanel has:

- a 15A breaker running 2 outside GFCI outlets
- a 15A breaker for lights
- a 20A breaker for outlets

Continuing as before, I could add a double 30A type QP breaker pair to supply the 230v outlet. But a 2nd 30A breaker on a 30A circuit is a waste of money, so how is this done?

But I'm curious if there is a way that this can be done "to code" or curious how close I can get. I suppose it may have to be torn out to sell the house but that's not my concern at the moment. Mainly want it to work, and be safe. My usage will not have a lot of electrical usage at once just one thing at a time. Understood "CODE" does not consider MY intended usage.

So, the question is, whats the best way to tap a 230A outlet into this subpanel?

I'll bow to a licensed electrician, but that pannel does not look like it is 220 capable. Where does the black input wire go? I only see the one input lug that you have the red wire attached to. I would hope to see a fuse box with two lugs one for red and one for black. Then you just get a double pole breaker, put it in the box and attach the wires from your new outlet to it. I would also want a disconnect in the garage to shut off the whole thing, without going back to the house.

 

[Bengineer]

^^^agreed. I think you need to replace the box you have with a 230V "main lug" panel wired with separate neutral and ground buses taken back to your house main panel. Personally, I would use a main breaker panel so as to be able to shut off the power at the box in the garage.

 

[Sodo]

That pannel does not look like it is 220 capable. Where does the black input wire go?

The Black (input) wire goes to the other leg (that is not visible behind the 20A breaker). The double 15s are on one leg and the 20A is on the other leg.

^^^agreed. I think you need to replace the box you have with a 230V "main lug" panel wired with separate neutral and ground buses taken back to your house main panel. Personally, I would use a main breaker panel so as to be able to shut off the power at the box in the garage.

Yep a disconnect out at the garage is my preference too. I prefer it to look "normal". If I could make this "to code" I'd do it. Do you think your suggestion makes it "to code"?

 

[CNC Dan]

I can't see where the black feed wire goes to, so not sure how this panel is set up. But 220 volt breakers need to connect to both of the two supply leggs (input leads). In a normal panel every other slot is on one leg, and all the others are on the other leg.
A double breaker connects to both legs.

If that can't be done in that panel, you could add another 110 outlet and use a device like "quick 220".
Quick 220 Systems

 

[Sodo]

Edited the pic.

Quick 220 is $210.00. Just trying to find out if there's a better way than adding the paired 30A breakers.

 

[downsizingnow48]

agree with bengineer. cant figger out what you have there. suggest you replace that panel with small main breaker panel. that gives you a disconnect and also the 120 and 240 hookups will be straightforward.

 

[Todd NE WY]

Sodo,

I would take your pictures into the city inspectors and tell them what you want to do and they will tell you if it is possible and what to do. I understand you don't necessarily want to do it to code but the problem there is if you have a fire and they find the substandard wiring set up you may have and insurance issue.

I am going thru the same thing with my shop the original owners only ran a 60 Amp service to it so I can't put a 50A breaker in for my welder and still have all the other circuits.

Todd

 

[CNC Dan]

with the edited pic, it now looks like you can add a doubble breaker at the bottom of the panel. But what concerns me most is the ground wires(bare) and neutral wires(white) going to the same buss. They should only be connected at one point(main panel).

 

[aczlan]

with the edited pic, it now looks like you can add a doubble breaker at the bottom of the panel. But what concerns me most is the ground wires(bare) and neutral wires(white) going to the same buss. They should only be connected at one point(main panel).

Agreed. It looks almost like there is a ground buss in the top left of the panel? If not, there is a place to put one there. I would add one then you should be up to code inside the box.

Aaron Z