120-Volt Mig welder.

[k0ua]

So my question is "what is the real problem with 120 volt welders"? Why are they only rated for 3/16th's steel? Is it because they can't develop enough heat to do a proper job of penetrating on thicker metals?

I realize too that manufacturers have no control over how their welders are used after they leave the factory. They probably under rate them because of safety and liability concerns and frankly that makes sense to me.

Your thoughts....

I can't believe I am entering this conversation, but here goes:.:confused2:

Yes, lower powered welding machines may not be able to generate enough heat to have the depth of penetration on thick materials because the thick steel acts like a heat sink and "sucks" the heat out of the weld faster than the welder can heat it up. I have seen many poor weld joints performed by factory welders on machinery that were extremely "cold" and had poor fusion. These were surely 240 volt welding machines that were set too low.
They make a nice pretty bead laying on top of the thick steel but had poor fusion down into the parent metals. It does not matter if the welder is 120 volts primary voltage and does not have enough power available to weld the thicker metal or a 240 volt machine improperly set to weld the thick material, the result is the same, a cold, poorly fused weld.
The solution is "TURN IT UP". put some heat down into the metal. But the point is a 120 volt welder, turned all the way up, MAY not have the power available to do the job.

 

[roadhunter]

Here is a pic of one of the odd projects I have done with a 110v welder. So it's blowing about 40+ and snowing like crazy, below 0. For some reason my satellite is out but there is a football game on that I want to watch. I go outside and the dish is shaking in the wind. Then I have the brilliant idea of stabilizing it with some scraps of rebar I have laying around. As you can see I have a couple of attachment points. One being where a clamped 2 pieces of steel onto the dish and another where I welded a small bolt on a piece of rebar and used an existing hole in the actual dish. I had the 110v welder (Hobart 125 mig running .035 flux core) in the bucket of the tractor and I was on a ladder. In the end it worked and seems to keep the dish stable in the wind. But is it's ugly so I will probably fix it one of these days.

 

[mikehaugen]

So my question is "what is the real problem with 120 volt welders"? Why are they only rated for 3/16th's steel? Is it because they can't develop enough heat to do a proper job of penetrating on thicker metals?

I realize too that manufacturers have no control over how their welders are used after they leave the factory. They probably under rate them because of safety and liability concerns and frankly that makes sense to me.

Your thoughts....

I could be wrong, but I somewhat agree with you. The ratings on these welders are "single pass" ratings. Doesn't matter what welder you are using, with enough time and passes I think you can weld anout anything. We had a licensed pressure vessel welder do some welding on our boiler. Welded 1" thick steel with a 200 amp inverter welder (one of those "plug-into any power supply" miller inverters). Obviously it was not rated to weld 1" steel, but he spent enough time and laid enough beads that it was considered acceptable. He had his stamp on it, which means his certification and livelihood was on the line... and this was during an anual boiler inspection when you know it's going to be inspected.

 

[Big Barn]

It just occurred to me that Arc Weld and I will probably both end up with 110v welders, as up here in Canada the old age and retirement complexes seldom have 220v in the rooms.

Terry

 

[newbury]

It just occurred to me that Arc Weld and I will probably both end up with 110v welders, as up here in Canada the old age and retirement complexes seldom have 220v in the rooms.

Terry

Just make sure you've got two 20 amp separate circuits

Power 110 - 240 Volt Equipment from Ordinary 110 - 120 Volt Outlets

1. Plug the Quick 220 voltage converter into 110 - 120v outlets.**
2. Connect 220, 230 or 240v equipment to the Quick 220 outlets.
3. Begin use.

Intertek Listed

International 220 to 240v equipment is easily connected with available plug adapters. Access to 220 to 240 volt wiring is made easy, fast and safe without the heat and weight of a step-up transformer.

Applications include technical equipment, computer servers, power tools, international appliances, air conditioners, air compressors, and exercise equipment.

20 Ampere capacity, plus momentary over range for starting motors and similar demands.
To 4800 watts at 240 volts.
Duty cycle: Up to 3 hours at maximum amperage. Over 3 hours, 80% of maximum amperage, average.
Light weight: Less than 4 pounds.
Small: 6.5 inches x 5 inches x 3 inches.
Portable, easy to use.
Silent.
Outlets for US/Canadian 220-240 volt straight blade (A220-20D) and locking plugs (A220-20L).


** Note: The Quick 220 Power Supply uses two outlets from two different circuits that are out of phase and not controlled by ground fault interupters (GFI's). The Quick 220 Power Supply has built in circuitry to test for the out of phase circuits. A separate tester is supplied to check the outlet for a GFI. Most buildings have numerous outlets that meet these two requirements.

Quick 220 Systems: Model A220-20D 20 Amp Power Supply Straight Blade Outlet

 

[CNC Dan]

If you look up the patents on the quick220 box, you can make your own. But then it won't be UL listed.
Two 120 volt relays to switch the 120 volt legs with the coils on oposing legs, and one 240 volt relay to kick in when you get two outlets on different legs.

Don't make a 'death cord' (no relays to keep one plug dead, when the other is plugged in).

 

[Reverser]

Here is a pic of one of the odd projects I have done with a 110v welder. So it's blowing about 40+ and snowing like crazy, below 0. For some reason my satellite is out but there is a football game on that I want to watch. I go outside and the dish is shaking in the wind. Then I have the brilliant idea of stabilizing it with some scraps of rebar I have laying around. As you can see I have a couple of attachment points. One being where a clamped 2 pieces of steel onto the dish and another where I welded a small bolt on a piece of rebar and used an existing hole in the actual dish. I had the 110v welder (Hobart 125 mig running .035 flux core) in the bucket of the tractor and I was on a ladder. In the end it worked and seems to keep the dish stable in the wind. But is it's ugly so I will probably fix it one of these days.

Now, that's being a dedicated football fan. I don't think an act of congress would have gotten me out of the warm house and up on a ladder in that kind of weather. :laughing:

It must have been a good weld to have held up in those conditions. :thumbsup:

 

[roadhunter]

Now, that's being a dedicated football fan. I don't think an act of congress would have gotten me out of the warm house and up on a ladder in that kind of weather. :laughing:

It must have been a good weld to have held up in those conditions. :thumbsup:

I'm a college football junkie. Big deal in Oklahoma and Nebraska. I'm sure you understand living in Texas.

The welds are rough with no prep and some on galvanized pipe but they held. Yet another situations that does not require a perfect weld to be functional.

 

[crazyal]

I borrowed a friends SP135 welder for a few weeks just before I got my 255. While it's rated at 20 amps input you really needed to have it on a 30 amp circuit. The chart inside it said it would weld up to 5/16 with multiple passes using flux core wire. But I found it to be a pain having to stop and remove the flux between passes would allow the metal to cool. As others have said, 110v machines have a limited amount of "heat" they can put into metal.

 

[brin]

I will put my Clarke 130 EN mig welder up against any other welder ...no matter how big... and I am a brand new welderer ... Who cannot be discouraged...They make different size pick up trucks for different needs ...same with welders....:2cents: