Fixing a bushhog...

[aczlan]

I went to hook up the bushhog the other day and I noticed that the deck was sagging in the middle. Took a closer look and the welds broke between two sections. I got it in the shop and picked it up to start cleaning it up and this is what I found:

White lines are where I am going to grind out the weld (or crack) and re-weld. I plan to re-weld the cracked/broken sections, then weld a backer all the way across the front to tie all three sections together like the chain holder does on the back. I have a piece of flat stock (~2.25" x 3/16 or 1/4") that I am looking at using as a backer (shown clamped in place). Should that be adequate, or should I get a piece of angle to go in there?

This will be welded with a 220V AC buzzbox and one of the rods that I have on hand (6011, 6013, 7014 or 7018 IIRC).

Aaron Z

 

[Soundguy]

i welded one a few weeks ago with a crackerbox and 6011 ground out the welds, ground paint off around the weld area. have mowed with it twice weekly since then.. no prob. Of course the wing on my 15' JD batwing I welded the hinge back on 10 ys ago is still mowing fine weekly too. same deal .. same rod.. same machine.

I went to hook up the bushhog the other day and I noticed that the deck was sagging in the middle. Took a closer look and the welds broke between two sections. I got it in the shop and picked it up to start cleaning it up and this is what I found:
View attachment 387624 View attachment 387625 View attachment 387626 View attachment 387627 View attachment 387628
White lines are where I am going to grind out the weld (or crack) and re-weld. I plan to re-weld the cracked/broken sections, then weld a backer all the way across the front to tie all three sections together like the chain holder does on the back. I have a piece of flat stock (~2.25" x 3/16 or 1/4") that I am looking at using as a backer (shown clamped in place). Should that be adequate, or should I get a piece of angle to go in there?

This will be welded with a 220V AC buzzbox and one of the rods that I have on hand (6011, 6013, 7014 or 7018 IIRC).

Aaron Z

 

[Gary Fowler]

Looks like you will be putting on some patches on the rusted out holes in a short while so might be a good thing to do it now. 6011 is a good rod for the thin metal. I use a lot of 7018 but I have an AC/ DC machine. I got some 3/32 6013 a few weeks back to use for super thin stuff. I haven't used them much but they don't penetrate much and would be good for patching on the thin rust out areas.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. i'd use the 6013 for the thin metal patches too.. and the 6011 for the deep bite.

 

[Big Barn]

I know lots of the pros aren't fond of 6013, but that and 6011 on an AC buzz box was all I used on the farm for 40 years. Repaired, built, and modified a seemingly endless number of projects. Didn't know any different. Wasn't even certain what DC was.... Just the dumb farm boy

Terry

 

[Soundguy]

I know lots of the pros aren't fond of 6013, but that and 6011 on an AC buzz box was all I used on the farm for 40 years. Repaired, built, and modified a seemingly endless number of projects. Didn't know any different. Wasn't even certain what DC was.... Just the dumb farm boy

Terry

those are the only 2 rods i stock on my farm in any quantity. I also have a few rods for cast iron.. and some braze and alloy solder rods.. but none of the other fancy stuff. if I need some i'll go get it.. but always have a need for a few pounds of 6011 around here.

 

[aczlan]

Back from getting some cutting discs from HF ($6 for 10 thin metal discs, I got 4 packs).

Looks like you will be putting on some patches on the rusted out holes in a short while so might be a good thing to do it now.

I will be replacing the rusted piece on the right 3 point arch mount (left side of the picture). The one on the right isn't rusted (yet). The center section was patched from the top before I got it, so it should be good for a while. The outer sections were replaced just after I got it. IMO, they should have been heavier metal but they will do for now.
Looking at getting a larger one this fall (a 6' 3 point one perhaps or I found a 7' tow behind one that needs a coat of paint) and possibly selling this one.

Aaron Z

 

[rankrank1]

I know lots of the pros aren't fond of 6013, but that and 6011 on an AC buzz box was all I used on the farm for 40 years. Repaired, built, and modified a seemingly endless number of projects. Didn't know any different. Wasn't even certain what DC was.... Just the dumb farm boy

Terry

Well I am no pro either:
a) 6011 is my hardest rod for my limited skillset to run but it is a must have for me to have around ole junky, rusty, dirty, farm equipment repairs.
b) 6013 is also a must have especially if you lack a wire feeder. Works good on really thin sheet. Also works good on repairs you will be reshaping to size with handheld power tools. 6013 shapes almost as easy as virgin steel with a carbide burr tool.
c) 7014 I like this one too. So easy to run that it almost welds itself (there is a reason it is called idiot rod and it is because it is so easy to use).

6011, 6013, and 7014 do NOT require rod oven storage either so no added expense for having them readily on hand. Any of the 3 burn equally well on AC or DC. 7014 might even burn slightly better on AC compared to DC (might be only rod you can say this for).

Do Not get me wrong 7018 (and 7018AC) have their place too, but both of these they can be quite tempermental to run on lower end welding power sources, cost you money to store the rods properly even if you have a top of the line welding power source (i.e. keeping a rod oven at temp , 24 hours a day, 365 days a year cost some dollars for electricity any way you slice it). Certainly necessary is some cases, but most of this hassle is simply not needed for almost all my repair based projects. Yah Yah I already know that many run 7018 just fine without oven storage, but those same people also readily admit they run much better from the oven in comparison and few of those people are using an AC buzzbox type welder either.

 

[Arc weld]

Hate to sound like a broken record but for 99% of any welding that will be done by the people on this forum, a rod oven for 7018 is NOT required. Keep them dry and don't store them in a high moisture location and you'll be good to go. Do they run a little nicer when hot, yes, but if you have trouble burning them "cold", maybe you just need a little more practice. In Lieu of that, short the rod out on the plate for a couple seconds and they'll be just as hot as if they came out of a rod oven.

 

[dcomp]

I like to keep mine stored on the shelf at TSC just stop and get a small box when I have a project to do.