Splicing a small I beam together

   / Splicing a small I beam together #1  

ericher69

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Aug 19, 2008
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Location
Ontario Canada
Tractor
2008 Kubota b2920
Purchased two lengths of used Ibeam that I will be splicing together.

This beam is for a trolley and small chain fall to help lift my b2920 implements to an acceptable working height. Max 500lbs.

Total span will be 15' when spliced.

Pieces are 11' and 4'

Beam is 5" by 3" by 1/2" thick

Here are some pictures

Prep, fit up and welding will be done by myself and directly supervised by a weldor with 30 years experience as a structural and high pressure weldor.

Will most likely weld with Millermatic 252.

Challenge will be clamping together so that it stays straight and doesn't warp.

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   / Splicing a small I beam together #2  
Looks like a great project, I'm following along!
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together #3  
I am sure your "helper" will let you know, but make sure you have a double V bevel on each piece, that way you can put an equal amount of weld on each side to prevent or at least lessen warpage. The biggest issue would be side to side warpage and may require some diamond shaped heat to straighten after all the welding is complete. This can be lessened by welding one side then the opposite quickly. The more times that you heat it up and allow a cool down, the more warpage you will get.
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I am sure your "helper" will let you know, but make sure you have a double V bevel on each piece, that way you can put an equal amount of weld on each side to prevent or at least lessen warpage. The biggest issue would be side to side warpage and may require some diamond shaped heat to straighten after all the welding is complete. This can be lessened by welding one side then the opposite quickly. The more times that you heat it up and allow a cool down, the more warpage you will get.

Yes thank you for the tip!

I'm thinking if I clamp it well.

Tack in several places

Weld and allow to cool while clamped it should not move too much.

Was thinking of bridging the weldment top and bottom with a 2.5"x12"x3/8" piece of flat stock with welds and plug welds for extra reinforcement and not to interfere with the trolley.

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   / Splicing a small I beam together #5  
I did this 15 yrs ago for storage shelving. Simple clamping for straightness; was very easy, and it came out perfectly straight with no fussing around. Then added doublers top bottom and web. My I-Beams are a little larger, (6x4?) but much thinner ( 1/4" & the web may be 3/16 ? ) and 22 feet long. They are still in use.

What is the lift capacity of the hoist?
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I did this 15 yrs ago for storage shelving. Simple clamping for straightness; was very easy, and it came out perfectly straight with no fussing around. Then added doublers top bottom and web. My I-Beams are a little larger, (6x4?) but much thinner ( 1/4" & the web may be 3/16 ? ) and 22 feet long. They are still in use. What is the lift capacity of the hoist?

Good to hear!

500lbs

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   / Splicing a small I beam together #7  

Proof it with 2000 lbs hanging on the splice and then you can lift 500 lbs with no worries. If it were me I'd proof it for 4x then add a doubler over the bottom weld just because I'm A/R, and because I can. It can be about anything. For example 1/8" x2" flatbar 3 1/2" long (or thicker if trolley has the clearance).
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together #8  
Unless there are reasons this won't fit with your trolley we usually use a backer plate on the top and bottom of the flanges and one on the Web. Single bevel your beam leaving about .125 gap and weld your first pass to the backer plate and both beams. Then fill the groove. This should leave the inside of the flange flush for your trolley wheels after welding and grinding smooth.
Make the plates about 6 to 10 inches long and they also will help hold your joint straight when welding.

There are a few other ways to make it work but the single bevel is simplest and does not require any back grinding to connect the root passes.

If you need any other advise feel free to ask.
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together #9  
Proof it with 2000 lbs hanging on the splice and then you can lift 500 lbs with no worries. If it were me I'd proof it for 4x then add a doubler over the bottom weld just because I'm A/R, and because I can. It can be about anything. For example 1/8" x2" flatbar 3 1/2" long (or thicker if trolley has the clearance).

Beam calculators are out on the Web that can be used for sizing. If you have questions on what your beam can hold I can get you solidworks simulation reports.
 
   / Splicing a small I beam together #10  
Blade, sounds like ericher already has the beam but internet beam sizing calculator would tell you the minimum beam size. If the calculator tells you max deflection allowed for the 5x3x1/2 that's interesting too. I'll bet that beam won't deflect (zero) under 500 lbs, and not much in a proof test.

Proof test is pretty easy for small loads like 4x 500lbs, here's a pic where you can use your pickup and a floor jack. I bet one front wheel is near 2,000 lbs which is probably enough but lifting both front wheels would be more like 4,000 lbs. I bet that beam can take 4,000 lbs (but better check it with the calculator first and stop pumping the jack if you reach max allowable deflection).

If you snap a chalkline on the beam (unloaded) and leave it stretched when you load it, you can see (and measure) the deflection.

image.jpg

You could even (geek warning) work backwards from the deflection measurement and calculate the proof weight.
And then go on the internet and print up an official aluminum sign (for your overhead lifting device) that says "500 lbs capacity, proofed at 2___ lbs per TBN standards."

If you proof it at 4,000lbs then someday down the road you can hang a 1,000 lb hoist on it no worries (if 4x is good enough for you).
 
 
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