To Weld or not to weld, that is the question...

[kiotiken]

I'm building a firewood processor. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/324028-firewood-processor-build-thread.html I just purchased the steel to build the cutting head. It will be a 1 way, 4 way and 6 way splitting head and will be made out of 6" - 1.00" flat stock. It will fit inside a frame that can slide up and down inside a channel to allow it to adjust for log size and the number of ways it cuts but still be braced on the sides and in the center. The frame will be made of 6" - .500 flat stock.

My question is should I attempt to weld this thing together with my Miller 180 cranked up to full with a couple passes on both sides or should I have a pro weld it with a machine that's up for the job. My concern for the 6 way splitter is I won't be able to get a great angle with the gun on the insides. I know I can't possibly get proper penetration on inch thick material or even .500 if I weld from both sides, but can I get enough for it to stick together and not be torn apart?

If I try it on my own, I will grind some of the metal away on the edges were possible to get better penetration on my first pass. I don't have an Oxy set up, is there any point trying to pre-heat the steel with a regular torch (yellow bottle, I believe it's Map gas?) or is that pretty much useless? Should I weld it from bottom to top to get more heat into the metal as I'm laying down the bead? Any tips or thoughts are appreciated.

 

[LD1]

Hard to picture the design in my head at this hour. But first question...what's the tonnage gonna be?

Weather it will hold I think will have more to do with your skill than the welder.

If it was mine, I'd groove it out, leave a root opening, and have at it. Several passes.

If it does fail, its not like anyone will be in danger. At that point you can clean it up and have someone with a larger machine do it. I think the only issue though, will be getting the gun in there and on a good angle like you mentioned.

BTW: what is a 1-way wedge? Is that like no wedge at all that the ram just pushes and you end up with 1-piece?

 

[mikehaugen]

BTW: what is a 1-way wedge? Is that like no wedge at all that the ram just pushes and you end up with 1-piece?

:laughing:

I say give it a try. The nice thing about things like this is that they can be re-done if need be, and as LD1 said there's not much risk of injury in the event of a failure. Just don't stand in front of it the first few times you have a really tough log on it! :laughing:

 

[muddstopper]

I have a miller 175, pretty much the same machine as yours. I used 1in plate for my splitter build. I tacked up everything with the mig, but when it came time to weld soild, I switched to stick. Bevel and multiple passes on the wedge and the cylinder mounts is a must. No use putting it together and then haveing to rebuild it. I am not saying your 180 mig wont do the job, but I felt stick was the better choice for me. Hasnt broke yet and i use a 6way wedge.

 

[peachfarmer]

I'm a professional welder for GE of 41 years. If you plan on using the log splitter a lot, consider a harder alloy for the wedge also welding electrode choice is key. Clean the steel before welding and in between each pass. SMAW (stick) will give you better depth of penetration. Stager your weld sequence from side to side.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Splitting wedges give manufacturers headaches. Having worked closely with them and factories who make them, no ordinary steel will do. In fact it's hard to find good steel in the US that will hold up if it is a real productive processor. One company has to have the made in Sweden. It's not like buiding a log splitter.

 

[kiotiken]

BTW: what is a 1-way wedge? Is that like no wedge at all that the ram just pushes and you end up with 1-piece?

Now that's funny!

Thanks for all the comments guys. Unfortunately, I only have my Miller 180 mig machine, no stick available. As far as a harder alloy goes, the steel should be arriving on my driveway in the next 10 minutes, so that's not an option. I'm also not equipped with the tools or skill to weld anything other than mild steel at this point. I was thinking about looking at having it hardened after it's built, any thoughts on that? I'm not even sure how it's done so I'd have to look into finding somebody to do it for me. As far as the amount of use this will get, I'm building it for my personal use primarily. I burn approx. 15 face cord a year. Since I'm finally making the leap to a processor over my splitter, I'm thinking of doing enough each year to sell and pay for a nice cozy "bonus" trip down south to sit on a beach with the mrs. every year. That would be about 60 face cord + my 15 is 75 per year so it's not a huge amount, but a lot more than my currently splitter sees.

 

[ThomasH]

Now that's funny!

Thanks for all the comments guys. Unfortunately, I only have my Miller 180 mig machine, no stick available. As far as a harder alloy goes, the steel should be arriving on my driveway in the next 10 minutes, so that's not an option. I'm also not equipped with the tools or skill to weld anything other than mild steel at this point. I was thinking about looking at having it hardened after it's built, any thoughts on that? I'm not even sure how it's done so I'd have to look into finding somebody to do it for me. As far as the amount of use this will get, I'm building it for my personal use primarily. I burn approx. 15 face cord a year. Since I'm finally making the leap to a processor over my splitter, I'm thinking of doing enough each year to sell and pay for a nice cozy "bonus" trip down south to sit on a beach with the mrs. every year. That would be about 60 face cord + my 15 is 75 per year so it's not a huge amount, but a lot more than my currently splitter sees.

I would think you would do fine with your welder (turned all the way up) *if* you grind a bevel so you can build a root pass and go from there. Also, welding 3" on each side as you go will keep the it from warping as much and also let the welder rest for a few seconds after each section so you don't overheat it.

I would also consider making the wedge a bolt in place piece, so it's replaceable.

 

[muddstopper]

I built my cutting edges up with a manganese hardening rod. I would have to go to the shop to see what the numbers are. I have found that the edges stay sharp for a long time. With the manganese alloy, the more you pound on the surface, the harder it gets. It will eventually get so hard that it will break out, but run a new bead and hit with the grinder and its good to go. Better have a good grinder because this stuff will eat the rocks off one. I got the rods from a track welder. They had switched to a new type of rod and all the old stuff was being tossed in the dumpster. The intended purpose of this type of rod is to weld up track frogs, switch points and rail ends that take a beating from train wheels running over them.

 

[bigdeano]

You can have mild steel case hardened. The surface can be made as hard as a file to whatever depth you specify. I think they usually charge by weight. Just look in the yellow pages.