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dntfxr
Platinum Member
OK thanks guys, I haven't had time to check the replies yet. Been too busy today but I'm headed there now. I appreciate everyone's help!:thumbsup:
Any suggestions on my tig setup -Dialarc HF (dinosaur)?
- Thread starter dntfxr
- Start date
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dntfxr
Platinum Member
Thanks for the link to the WW site, a ton of info and helpful folks there. I got the new resistor installed and she's back up and running. My post flow timer is still not working right so I got another one ordered. I'm hoping that will help my aluminum welding. I'm getting a lot of black crud on the weld and the electrode is looking pretty oxidized too. Does anyone have suggestions on welding aluminum on a simple transformer with only high frequency?
Shield Arc
Super Member
Get a stainless steel wire wheel for your small grinder, and use it on the aluminum just before you weld. Also get a Scotch Brite pad and wipe down your filler rod just before using it.
DO NOT USE THE STAINLESS STEEL WIRE WHEEL ON ANYTHING BUT ALUMINUM!!!!!!!!!
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dntfxr
Platinum Member
Thanks SA I'll try that. I had tried just a new ss wire brush before but I'll go with a new wheel and try the Scotch Brite too. Do you recommend cleaning with acetone or alcohol also?
Shield Arc
Super Member
I don't use either, but a lot of people use acetone, or alcohol to clean their aluminum.
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dntfxr
Platinum Member
I couldn't stand it I had to go out and experiment with it last night. I didn't have a SS wire wheel or scotch brite or cleaner so I used the SS wire brush again and set up a lap joint with 1/8 aluminum flat bar. I tried the pure tungsten and started on the corner but had trouble getting a clear puddle again. It would get a dark crust over the spot and the filler would ball up and look dark also. I brushed it again and turned the gas up to 20cfm and bingo it cleared up and I got a decent looking weld finally! I did have issues with the tungsten splitting and looking nasty toward the end of the weld though. I may try the 2% Thoriated this evening to see if it will hold up better. The local welding store suggested the pure for aluminum but I'm not sure why it's recommended. Would the lanthanated or ceriated be a better choice for aluminum? Again thanks for the help!
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dntfxr
Platinum Member
Actually I just looked at a color chart for electrodes and I've had my colors confused, I've been using the pure for steel and Thoriated for aluminum. I bet they'll work a lot better the other way around lol!
Shield Arc
Super Member
For years, and years all we had was green / pure for Tig welding aluminum. Then these inverters came out. It's been so long since I used a transformer Tig welding machine I can't remember if I used Ceriated tungsten with it or not.
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dntfxr
Platinum Member
I think I'll stop and pick up a ceriated and a lanthanated on the way home just to try it. Some 4043 too, I think what I have is 5356 or something like that. I aught to pick up an inverter while I'm at it!
CNC Dan
Veteran Member
I think I'll stop and pick up a ceriated and a lanthanated on the way home just to try it. Some 4043 too, I think what I have is 5356 or something like that. I aught to pick up an inverter while I'm at it!
It's been a long time since I've used a transformer TIG machine, but I'll add what I can.
Your AC output is balanced 50/50. So you are putting a lot more heat into the tungsten, than a machine that you can adjust the AC balance.
So you may want to use a larger tungsten.
The arc is going out 60 times a second, and the aluminum is not a very good emitter of electrons like the electrode. This is due to the electrode being very hot, but the aluminum isn't as hot. So when the arc goes out, and tries to go in the opposite direction(Electrode Positive) the current might not start flowing. They call this rectification.
To overcome this, the high-frequency current is left running all the time to restart the arc.
On DC current this isn't a problem so the high-frequency is only used to start the arc.
That's all I can offer. Good luck.