Dry cut chop saw

[JKR]

It was mild steel. Maybe I put to much pressure on the handle. I don't know. All I know the motor smoked and my new saw on it's way. It it close to my Milwaukee 8" metal saw I will be happy.

 

[Morning Wood]

I bought an evolution dry cut saw and it was a complete piece of crap. Table was cast so badly it wasn't even close to flat or square to the blade. Looked at it for about 1 minute and put it back in the box. I'd stick to Dewalt, Milwaukee (discontinued) or what I ended up with, the Makita.

 

[JKR]

Good to know. I will keep a eye out for it. Thanks

 

[Jim Timber]

Milwaukee's base was cast aluminum and a sight to behold, but the handle ergonomics were bad. I got my Dewalt with the intention of mounting it to a stand and eliminating it's crappy stamped base completely, but I ran out of room. :laughing:

Dollar for dollar, my 4x6 bandsaw (happens to be a Jet - but they're all virtually identical) remains the king of quality for precision cutting and cost per cut on consumables. The only problem with it is how slow it is. If you're going to post-process the cut edge (say; mill it square), then an abrasive chop saw is fast and cheap. But if you're going to weld it directly off the saw, the bandsaw can be set up to make a near perfect end to go directly to the weldment. Grind off your tab burr and you're ready for fit-up.

My bandsaw blades (bi-metal, US made) seem to do well against things like 304 SS, chromed hydraulic shafts and hydraulic cylinder bodies, etc. Only downside is speed - which can be made up by the fact you're not trying to true it after the cut in some applications. Those tree plug planting tools I posted have a weldment on one end of 2 out of 3 pieces, and are fishmouthed in a mill before fitting on 2 mating surfaces. The ends of the handles are clean after deburring with a chamfer cutter and flap wheel, so the textured smooth face left by the dry cut is perfectly acceptable even if not precisely all that square to the axis of the tube.

 

[JKR]

I have a 4x6 bandsaw Jet also.
I have a 1" Starrett band saw. It cut great. But if you need to cut something out side you shop. A chop saw the tool.

 

[tjkubota93]

got it today and cut a piece of angle. It cuts easier and is not as loud as an abrasive saw. I touched the cut edge right after the blade cleared, it was barely warm. It's perfect for occasional use. I was either going to buy this one or the harbor freight abrasive saw for once/twice a year mig welder projects.

 

[crackerjack222]

I have the Northern version dry cut saw. I ruined the blade cutting 2 3/8 and 2 7/8 pipe for my pens. I quickly found out that when cutting pipe you have to rotate the pipe after about 3/4 of the cut. Trying to cut the bottom of the pipe without rotating it will wear out the blade very quickly. I can now cut pipe with torch, dry cut saw, abrasive saw or band saw. What I choose to use depends on what I am cutting, how clean a cut I need, how fast I want it cut and what is closer In general, I save the dry cut for the precision cuts in mild steel.

 

[BukitCase]

Morning Wood, which Evolution did you send back? They make an inexpensive one with stamped steel base and no quick release on the vise, and a higher priced one with cast base and quick release vise. Curious which one you sent back... Steve

 

[DXN1EL]

Is the MK Morse CSM14MB USA made?:dance1:

 

[Morning Wood]

Morning Wood, which Evolution did you send back? They make an inexpensive one with stamped steel base and no quick release on the vise, and a higher priced one with cast base and quick release vise. Curious which one you sent back... Steve

Cast base. POS.