Stick welding questions

[Jim_in_Omaha]

I know there are tons of post regarding welding, but I thought I might ask for some direct pointers on a couple of things. I have experience with MIG which is fairly straight forward. I needed more heat so I found a Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC that I picked up for $250. It had been dropped and I fixed the cabinet and cover, it was brand new. I have found that it is capable of producing plenty of heat.

What I would like some tips on are this:

Welding mild steel 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick ranges. What would the best type of rods be for this?

I have some 1/8" 7014 I bought at TSC for practicing and it seems to be real touchy on the amperage. Sometimes I make a great bead, then other times it looks like I smear toothpaste. This is after I clean the slag off. Also it would appear that the direction of the welding is touchy. If I keep it horizontal and flat it does considerably better.

I have been using DC neg and that seems to be the best results. I've been studying the other posts and have picked up alot of good tips. Most of my stuff is done with my Millermatic 135 but it's only good up to about 1/4. Maybe someday I can pickup a Millermatic 251. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif


thanks
Jim

 

[MadReferee]

Why not ask on the Miller/Hobart sponsored discussion board? Many experts there including factory support people.

Welding discussion board

 

[gsganzer]

I try to use 7018 whenever possible. This is the same rod used for pressure vessels and structural. It's a great multi-position rod. The only problems are that the metal needs to be free of rust (easily accomplished with an angle grinder) and the rods need to be kept dry (they absorb moisture from the air).

The other rod I use is 6013 or 6010. The 6013 is a low penetration rod and great for thin metals. The 6010 is similar to the AC 6011 but is for DC service.

 

[jimg]

gsganzer: Great advice!

jim: As for the 'smeared' effect you're seeing it might be technique or arc blow. Its hard to say which from what you wrote. When you get this situation do you notice the arc moving around the path of travel?

 

[RonR]

I almost always use 6013. It's about the easiest rod I've ever used. Most of the stuff I build is over-engineered and over welded, so strength of the rod has never been an issue (poor welding skills has, but that's another story).

 

[gsganzer]

RonR, I like the 6013 myself. It's a good general purpose rod. I think the 7018 is easier for vertical up and overhead (both positions I hate) as it seems to "freeze faster" and have a lower tendency to run out.

I'm thinking of making a rod oven to keep the 7018's so they stay dry.

 

[AlanB]

Well,

From another angle

7014 I believe is fast fill fast freeze.

If I was advising someone starting out, I would say,

With todays quality of rods etc. flip your machine to AC

6013 rod for neat clean appearing welds, primarily on clean material

6011 rod for higher penatration more structurally sound welds or for overcoming rusty metal etc.

And remember that welding is a skill that is honed through practice. More stick time will yield better results.

(I would reccomnend the 6011 and 6013 over the others (7018 or such) as they are more common, generally less expensive, and are not as finicky to run.

 

[RonR]

Thanks gsganzer.

I'll buy a pound of 7018 and try it. I don't weld enough, I just get it at TSC in the plastic couple pound boxes. In the 80s, I split a BIG box of rod with a guy, and I've just now run out of it!

Take care,
Ron

 

[slowrev]

What Allen said. Has worked well for a long time for me.

 

[Jim_in_Omaha]

I think I'll pick up the small boxes of 6011, 6013 and maybe a 7018 to practice with. I was told to try the 7014 and I can see the fast fill fast freeze character.

Thanks
Jim