For rough work, like removing paint, and mil scale. I use a 36-grit sanding pad. If the item is going to be painted, I use 80-grit. The small grinder runs around 12,000-RPMs. The large bench sander runs at 2,500-RPMs.
80 grit is what belts we run at work. I have no complaints. Mainly used for knocking edges off of parts that come out of the bandsaw. And touching up drillbits.
If I was wanting to do any serious shaping or hogging material, I'd want something courser.
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60 for me on a disc. Anything more coarse I go back to a regular grinding wheel like an A24. Or Flap discs in assorted grits from 36 - 120. Great for lawn mower blades and general sharpening. Belt sander I use 40 0n the disc and 60 on the belt. I'm sure everyone has their favorites due to the vast amount of tasks at hand.
36 for smoothing welds and on the 12" disc sander for shaping. If finish matters take out the swirl marks with 80 and go over it with scotchbrite rolocs in the 2" air sander.
It really depends on what you want as far as a smooth finish goes...regardless of how course of grit you start with...as long as you have progressively smaller grit...using "wet or dry" silicon carbide media you can take just about any metal (and many other materials)...down to a mirror finish...
a little off topic but "hard" plastic tractor/equipment lever knobs that have been faded by the sun/elements can be restored to their original shiny look by sanding/polishing with progressively smaller W/D paper...for most faded knobs try starting with 100 grit (keep all grits wet, rinsing often) down through all the available grits until it's as shiny as you want to go...generally 600Grit will be enough to look new...but you can go on down all the way to "mirror finish"...
Caveat>>...this will not work on malleable knobs...