How to fix this crack

   / How to fix this crack
  • Thread Starter
#91  
Just so no good deed goes unpunished, weld is holding after a days worth of work but found oil puddled in my engine compartment (tub). Looks like my main seal is starting to weep. whatever.
 
   / How to fix this crack #94  
Back to flitch/fish: if you have a door header and need to use two 2x10s but only have room for 2x6s you can replace the 1/2" plywood sandwich with 1/2" steel. That steel is a flitch plate. At least in New England.
Jim
 
   / How to fix this crack #95  
I'm way late to the party and not a welder but I do know a thing or two about fatigue stress and cracking being a aerospace stress engineer for many years. That said, the first thing I would have done is understand the fatigue stress and how the crack was opening/closing before doing anything other than cleaning up any grease or grim around the crack. Maybe start by jacking up one side or the other would provide a clue if you aren't good at understanding load paths. Not knowing that info... I will say I'm with Mark@Everlast on a gusset style reinforcement plate even one that would only extend inboard some without blocking off access. A larger 'fillet' radius or gusset goes a long way in reducing stress concentrations. I also would not make the repair plate any thicker than the thickness of the adjacent structure.

On fish plates and stress risers, their shape is meant to to gradually change the stress along a structural member. Abrupt changes in cross section means abrupt stress level changes. Another thing that is a good idea to understand... is how you are changing the cross section by adding the repair plate. This is important in bending situations because the added plate can change the neutral axis of the cross section and potentially cause much higher operating stresses on the opposite side of the cross section and causing new problems. This is why it is generally a good idea to make repairs/reinforcements symmetrical if possible. For instance if you were adding a doubler to an 'I' beam you should beef up both top and bottom even if you are only fixing one side. Anyways my :2cents:
 
   / How to fix this crack #96  
I'm way late to the party and not a welder but I do know a thing or two about fatigue stress and cracking being a aerospace stress engineer for many years. That said, the first thing I would have done is understand the fatigue stress and how the crack was opening/closing before doing anything other than cleaning up any grease or grim around the crack. Maybe start by jacking up one side or the other would provide a clue if you aren't good at understanding load paths. Not knowing that info... I will say I'm with Mark@Everlast on a gusset style reinforcement plate even one that would only extend inboard some without blocking off access. A larger 'fillet' radius or gusset goes a long way in reducing stress concentrations. I also would not make the repair plate any thicker than the thickness of the adjacent structure.

On fish plates and stress risers, their shape is meant to to gradually change the stress along a structural member. Abrupt changes in cross section means abrupt stress level changes. Another thing that is a good idea to understand... is how you are changing the cross section by adding the repair plate. This is important in bending situations because the added plate can change the neutral axis of the cross section and potentially cause much higher operating stresses on the opposite side of the cross section and causing new problems. This is why it is generally a good idea to make repairs/reinforcements symmetrical if possible. For instance if you were adding a doubler to an 'I' beam you should beef up both top and bottom even if you are only fixing one side. Anyways my :2cents:
It would be nice, if you would have put that in English. So we could understand what you said! ;):D
 
   / How to fix this crack #97  
I wish I could have written my fish plate description as well. Nonetheless, without seeing the actual crack and the stress the frame member is cycling through, its very hard to give advice on the repair plates design via internet forum. This is why I tried to give examples of a few fish plate repairs.

I'm way late to the party and not a welder but I do know a thing or two about fatigue stress and cracking being a aerospace stress engineer for many years. That said, the first thing I would have done is understand the fatigue stress and how the crack was opening/closing before doing anything other than cleaning up any grease or grim around the crack. Maybe start by jacking up one side or the other would provide a clue if you aren't good at understanding load paths. Not knowing that info... I will say I'm with Mark@Everlast on a gusset style reinforcement plate even one that would only extend inboard some without blocking off access. A larger 'fillet' radius or gusset goes a long way in reducing stress concentrations. I also would not make the repair plate any thicker than the thickness of the adjacent structure.

On fish plates and stress risers, their shape is meant to to gradually change the stress along a structural member. Abrupt changes in cross section means abrupt stress level changes. Another thing that is a good idea to understand... is how you are changing the cross section by adding the repair plate. This is important in bending situations because the added plate can change the neutral axis of the cross section and potentially cause much higher operating stresses on the opposite side of the cross section and causing new problems. This is why it is generally a good idea to make repairs/reinforcements symmetrical if possible. For instance if you were adding a doubler to an 'I' beam you should beef up both top and bottom even if you are only fixing one side. Anyways my :2cents:
 
   / How to fix this crack #98  
It would be nice, if you would have put that in English. So we could understand what you said! ;):D

What, doesn't every tractor come with a mechanical engineering degree?
 
   / How to fix this crack #99  
What, doesn't every tractor come with a mechanical engineering degree?
I was very spoiled. 99% of the time we were required to have an engineer on the job site with us. So if we didn't understand something, all it took was a radio call to the job site office, or just stop by and ask the engineer to explain it to us.:cool:
 
 
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