Another "Help me buy my next welder" thread

[FTG-05]

I currently have a Lincoln Sp-175 Plus 220 VAC-only MIG welder. I've had it since the late '90's and love it to death. But now I'm retired and live on a farm and now will need to start welding farm-type stuff (read: thick). Also, my first welder was a Lincoln AC-225 stick/buzz box.

For example, I'll need to weld Cat I ears on this +1200 lb blade scraper I got a month or so ago (see pic). This is just one example.

I want a new welder that will complement but not overlap or replicate the SP-175 capabilities too much. I can use the SP for the sheet metal to 1/4" stuff; the new welder needs to be able to do the +3/8" and up.

TIG would be nice but not a requirement. Budget is less than $1k, so I think a larger MIG is out. I have power to burn: My home and shop are on their own transformer and the shop has plenty of 220 VAC open spaces; so I'm good all they way up to 220 VAC at 100 amps. 120 VAC convertibility not required nor wanted.

Based on comments by other users and notable weldors (SA for one), I'm thinking the Everlast Powerarc 300ST (see link below). However, I'm open to other ideas and products. One thing that bothers me about the 300 is the lack of foot pedal and the ability to add one; I thought you needed a foot pedal for TIG, yes/no?

PowerARC 3ST | Everlast Generators

So, comments, suggestions, insults, all the above, some of each?

As always, thanks for the help!

 

[STx]

Honestly, for welding old, rusty steel, it's hard to beat a plain old stick welder. A lot of very big stuff has been built with stick welders. I would look at a TIG more for stainless, aluminum or precision welding. You could do what you want to that implement with the welder you have if you bevel things and make multiple passes.

As to the brand of welder, I won't buy another Chinese manufactured welder ever again. If you get a good one, you'll be happy with it. I didn't and warranty support, or just support in general, with no dealer and repair network left me with a useless machine that I'd paid over $2,000 for over a year. I had to take actions beyond just dealing with their support department to finally get it taken care of. I sent it back for repair on my dime and got it shipped back on my dime with the same problem. The machine was finally replaced after I made enough noise and the brand new machine was promptly put on eBay without even being unboxed so that I could honestly say it was a brand new machine in the box and I wasn't knowingly selling someone else a box of problems. I ended up losing about $900 on that experience and resolved then that I would only buy stuff that I could get worked on at the local welding supply store.

I'm not saying that Lincoln, Miller, ESAB, etc. don't put out a bad product every now and again also, in fact I have a Lincoln 180C that needs to go in for repair right now. The difference is that I'm going to put that Lincoln in my truck and take it to the local Airgas, drop it off and in 2 or 3 weeks, they'll call me to come pick up my repaired welder. Granted, I don't weld as a hobby, I make money with it but, that alone is worth the additional price of the machine. Everything breaks eventually, the more electronics in them, the more likely it will happen and the inverter welders are pretty much all electronics.

So, if it was me buying based on the work that your describing, budget and not wanting to overlap too much with the SP175, I'd buy one of these - AC/DC 225/125 Stick Welder - and use the extra $400 on consumables or take my wife to dinner. The extra bonus is that you'll be able to easily run this machine off a generator and work stuff in the field.

 

[Shield Arc]

A foot pedal for Tig welding is really only needed for doing aluminum work. As the base metal heats up you need to back off the power.
X-ray quality welds are made every day with Tig rigs. They work great on stainless steel, and carbon steel.
I had the PowerArc 300 for some time. I loved the adjustable arc force. I now have the PowerArc 200ST, very impressed with it.
I have had this Tig rig for a few years now, it works great!
WP 26V 25R 25' 2Amp Air Cooled w Gas Valve TIG Welding Torch Ready to Go Kit | eBay

 

[FTG-05]

Honestly, for welding old, rusty steel, it's hard to beat a plain old stick welder. A lot of very big stuff has been built with stick welders. I would look at a TIG more for stainless, aluminum or precision welding. You could do what you want to that implement with the welder you have if you bevel things and make multiple passes.

As to the brand of welder, I won't buy another Chinese manufactured welder ever again. If you get a good one, you'll be happy with it. I didn't and warranty support, or just support in general, with no dealer and repair network left me with a useless machine that I'd paid over $2,000 for over a year. I had to take actions beyond just dealing with their support department to finally get it taken care of. I sent it back for repair on my dime and got it shipped back on my dime with the same problem. The machine was finally replaced after I made enough noise and the brand new machine was promptly put on eBay without even being unboxed so that I could honestly say it was a brand new machine in the box and I wasn't knowingly selling someone else a box of problems. I ended up losing about $900 on that experience and resolved then that I would only buy stuff that I could get worked on at the local welding supply store.

I'm not saying that Lincoln, Miller, ESAB, etc. don't put out a bad product every now and again also, in fact I have a Lincoln 180C that needs to go in for repair right now. The difference is that I'm going to put that Lincoln in my truck and take it to the local Airgas, drop it off and in 2 or 3 weeks, they'll call me to come pick up my repaired welder. Granted, I don't weld as a hobby, I make money with it but, that alone is worth the additional price of the machine. Everything breaks eventually, the more electronics in them, the more likely it will happen and the inverter welders are pretty much all electronics.

So, if it was me buying based on the work that your describing, budget and not wanting to overlap too much with the SP175, I'd buy one of these - AC/DC 225/125 Stick Welder - and use the extra $400 on consumables or take my wife to dinner. The extra bonus is that you'll be able to easily run this machine off a generator and work stuff in the field.

I thought about the Lincoln AC/DC machine and I'm not convinced it has enough oomph over the -175. However, I've never welded with DC either and I'm not a weldor by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm 35 miles from the nearest dealer: Between the traffic and time, I'm not so sure I'd prefer the UPS solution vs. putting up with city traffic again. That's why I moved out in the sticks to get away from the city.

Thanks

 

[lmalcomb]

Honestly, for welding old, rusty steel, it's hard to beat a plain old stick welder. A lot of very big stuff has been built with stick welders. I would look at a TIG more for stainless, aluminum or precision welding. You could do what you want to that implement with the welder you have if you bevel things and make multiple passes.

As to the brand of welder, I won't buy another Chinese manufactured welder ever again. If you get a good one, you'll be happy with it. I didn't and warranty support, or just support in general, with no dealer and repair network left me with a useless machine that I'd paid over $2,000 for over a year. I had to take actions beyond just dealing with their support department to finally get it taken care of. I sent it back for repair on my dime and got it shipped back on my dime with the same problem. The machine was finally replaced after I made enough noise and the brand new machine was promptly put on eBay without even being unboxed so that I could honestly say it was a brand new machine in the box and I wasn't knowingly selling someone else a box of problems. I ended up losing about $900 on that experience and resolved then that I would only buy stuff that I could get worked on at the local welding supply store.

I'm not saying that Lincoln, Miller, ESAB, etc. don't put out a bad product every now and again also, in fact I have a Lincoln 180C that needs to go in for repair right now. The difference is that I'm going to put that Lincoln in my truck and take it to the local Airgas, drop it off and in 2 or 3 weeks, they'll call me to come pick up my repaired welder. Granted, I don't weld as a hobby, I make money with it but, that alone is worth the additional price of the machine. Everything breaks eventually, the more electronics in them, the more likely it will happen and the inverter welders are pretty much all electronics.

So, if it was me buying based on the work that your describing, budget and not wanting to overlap too much with the SP175, I'd buy one of these - AC/DC 225/125 Stick Welder - and use the extra $400 on consumables or take my wife to dinner. The extra bonus is that you'll be able to easily run this machine off a generator and work stuff in the field.

Well said, I agree with You completely !

 

[flusher]

I'd get an ESAB Rebel multifunction welder (MIG, fluxcore, stick, TIG). $1600. A little pricy, but you're retired and have plenty of time to master different types of welding. It's got smart technology built in so you can select basic mode while learning and advance to veteran mode when your proficiency improves. Give yourself an early Christmas present and enjoy.

Rebel

Good luck

 

[Shield Arc]

I would be careful buying the Lincoln welder! If I'm not mistaken they take like 10 or 15-amp jumps. That would drive me crazy!:thumbdown::thumbdown:

 

[FTG-05]

A foot pedal for Tig welding is really only needed for doing aluminum work. As the base metal heats up you need to back off the power.
X-ray quality welds are made every day with Tig rigs. They work great on stainless steel, and carbon steel.
I had the PowerArc 300 for some time. I loved the adjustable arc force. I now have the PowerArc 200ST, very impressed with it.
I have had this Tig rig for a few years now, it works great!
WP 26V 25R 25' 2Amp Air Cooled w Gas Valve TIG Welding Torch Ready to Go Kit | eBay

I've never needed to welded on SS or AL before, not sure I'd ever need to though.

Carbon steel = armor plate (AR-500) etc? "Arc force"? You'll have to use baby words for me to understand.

"Xray quality welds" HaHaHa! That's pretty funny! My biggest welding goal for the last 25 years has been to graduate from bird****-quality welds. See pics for latest example. 1/2" steel on 1/2" steel; looks like crap, but will *probably* hold since the application forces are low. The Cat I ears on the scraper blade is another matter - I need to stack the deck in my favor as much as possible.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here is what the PowerArc 200ST can do with 6010, and 7018.
When buying an Everlast welder, remember we have Mark here to help us. Mark is as honest as the day is long!:thumbsup:

 

[STx]

I'm not going to tell you what brand welder I bought and had issues with. I will only say that it didn't get taken care of until Oleg got involved. You can probably figure it out from that and I'm not trying to disparage any particular brand, I've only shared my experience. A 2 hour round trip to town sure beats a 9 month wait, I'm just saying...

If you're worried about the AC225 not having enough power (I think you'll find it does), there are a lot of used Idealarc welders of various sizes available for around your budget. I see 3 withing 250 miles of Memphis (not sure exactly where you are) priced from $1100 - $1300 - Lincoln Idealarc - Memphis Classifieds - Claz.org.

An inexpensive Chinese welder might be fine for hobby use and you'll probably get a good one and might never need to have it worked on, in which case you'll be just fine. My experience though, wasn't good and my support experience from one of the brands that is known for having good support was pretty lackluster.