Design for trailer to transport tractor

[budepps3760]

My old bass boat died and i have decided to use the 20' trailer to haul my Mahindra 2810 around as needed. Without implements it weighs around 3100 pounds.

The trailer is a tandem and capacity listed is 4500 pounds. I know that i will need to upgrade the ply of the tires but first things first. I am looking for suggestions pertaining to design, type of steel to use, gauge, etc. I know that basics of welding and can do an ok job. My son is a pipe fitter and have a few of his friends going through tech school learning welding as well a CD they always enjoy a project to practice on.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[Shield Arc]

Northern Tool has really easy blue prints to read. Maybe pick a trailer that will work for you, and buy the blue print.
Trailer plans from Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Jeepnford]

You might post a picture of the trailer. I thought bass boat trailers were pretty narrow so the axles could be too narrow. Another thought is if you have implements on the tractor you'll likely be overloaded. You'll add quite a bit of weight to modify the trailer. That 4500 lbs. is probably weight of the trailer and load combined. Possibly you could sell the boat trailer and buy a car hauler that needs some fixing up if you're looking for a project for your son and friends.

 

[Jeepnford]

Northern Tool has really easy blue prints to read. Maybe pick a trailer that will work for you, and buy the blue print.
Trailer plans from Northern Tool + Equipment

Even better idea. I bought a set myself.

 

[4570Man]

Your trailer is inadequate unless you’re only hauling the base tractor. If you do continue with the project I’d run 2 beams the length of the trailer and run decking across those. Similar concept as if you were building a small bridge.

 

[jaxs]

I've completed several trailers using boat trailers as the platform. If beams on trailer are within 4"of tire sidewall and I don't need leingth to include where beams bend toward tongue, I put cross pieces inside beams and a tool box on front. If tire is over 4" from side beam or I need to utilize area over narrowed beams I usually lay cross pieces on top of beams. I use 1/8th wall 1.5 and 2 inch square tubing or 1/8th thick 2"angle for crosses. 2" angle crosses sit on top of beams with horizontal leg at top and 2"long angles between horizontal top leg and beam. The front cross is 3/16ths 2"x3" angle with 2" laying horizontal on beam and 3" leg vertical. Treated 2x4 bring's front cross level with rest of crosses. Anticipating a tricycle H farmall,I once added a center beam but other than front,rear and two other crosses did not weld crosses to it. I did that to make frame less rigid. Many disagree with alowing frame to flex but I'm convinced it spread's stress and avoid's member wrapping and weld breaks. Tongue usually has to be shortened unless mounting a tool box. I use 16" wheels so that I can take used tires off pick ups and cars. 16"passenger tires are rated 1500 to 1700 Lbs,Lt truck tires 2k plus. 5 hole boat wheels are usually 4.5"pattern with low/no offset found on Chrysler and Ford from early 2000s and back. 4.5 pattern is used on many later vehicles but most have a lot of offset that is hard on bearings. I load the torch cart and swing by scrap recyclers. I can torch off material in a few minutes and pay pennys on the dollar compared to new. I omitted crosses and decked a trailer with C purlin picked up at recycler a couple of years ago. It was an easy build but deck was sure slick when wet. If your roads are salted,I suggest rust converter,primimg and painting frame before decking.

 

[budepps3760]

These are wonderful ideas. Thanks very much.