The newest version of the Idealarc is the Idealarc 250, a stick welder that is about $2800. In multi-process machines you move up to the Idealarc DC 400. They start at about $7400. If the machine you have looks to be in good shape, I'd contact a welder repair service and have them go over it and test it to verify its functions to make sure it can be operated safely. Most of the Lincoln welders of that age are fairly simple machines and can be rehabbed, if needed, cost effectively. I use a welder repair service that specializes in rebuilding older machines and has rehabbed Lincolns. When he gets done with them they look and operate like new.
Modern Equivalent to a Lincol Idealarc 300/300
- Thread starter Tractorrr
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The newest version of the Idealarc is the Idealarc 250, a stick welder that is about $2800. In multi-process machines you move up to the Idealarc DC 400. They start at about $7400. If the machine you have looks to be in good shape, I'd contact a welder repair service and have them go over it and test it to verify its functions to make sure it can be operated safely. Most of the Lincoln welders of that age are fairly simple machines and can be rehabbed, if needed, cost effectively. I use a welder repair service that specializes in rebuilding older machines and has rehabbed Lincolns. When he gets done with them they look and operate like new.
joeu235
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I recommend you get the old welder looked over by someone that knows what they are doing or buy a Everlast 200ST as a starter machine to learn on. You don't want to have to troubleshoot your own skills and the welder at the same time.
Thanks for the comments. I'm thinking that getting the old machine in working order would probably be best for now. I was able to start doing my first welds. I bought some 3/32 6013 electrodes and some 1/8 7018 electrodes to try practicing.
So far, I found that it does best with the range selector in maximum. I was able to run a few string of beads at least and weld some metal together for the first time.
I'm gonna try to get some help from a neighbor to help make sure I'm doing stuff safely and that the machine is running correctly.
Is it normal to have reflections of light inside the welding helmet? Is this more of a nuisance or can it be damaging to your eyes? I bought an auto darkening metal man helmet that seems to do good. I can see fine through the shaded lens, but while welding there is reflected light around the shaded lens inside the helmet.
So far, I found that it does best with the range selector in maximum. I was able to run a few string of beads at least and weld some metal together for the first time.
I'm gonna try to get some help from a neighbor to help make sure I'm doing stuff safely and that the machine is running correctly.
Is it normal to have reflections of light inside the welding helmet? Is this more of a nuisance or can it be damaging to your eyes? I bought an auto darkening metal man helmet that seems to do good. I can see fine through the shaded lens, but while welding there is reflected light around the shaded lens inside the helmet.
sd455dan
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You should not need to be in Maximum course current setting to weld 3/32 or 1/8 7018
at max setting mine will incinerate 5/32 7018
Did you use the (fine) current setting knob?
The free downloadable manual from Lincoln's site has a lot of good information for set up and use.
1 other caution , If you do try Tig welding make sure that the coolant is flowing thru the torch lead...
Water cooled torches are not designed to be run dry- and you can quickly overheat and damage the torch cable.
If you want to run a non water cooled torch, an air cooled 17 style is inexpensive and good for about a 150 amps.
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I'm starting to think that the fine adjustment knob isn't working. For 1/8 6010 I have to turn it to the maximum range and it will weld. On the high range with the fine adjustment knob turned all the way up I couldn't even keep the arc for very long. I think the high range goes all the way up to 275 amps with the fine adjustment all the way up and it doesn't seem to be putting out anything close to that. Even the medium range goes up to 165 amps which should be more than enough. With it in medium and the fine adjustment all the way up I can only get some sparks and possible stick the electrode.
I had the polarity set to DC+. The remote current control was set to off since I'm attempting stick welding and not using a foot or hand control for TIG. Hopefully I'll get some help from a neighbor eventually.
sd455dan
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Oh Oh -
It is possible that something in the control circuitry has failed. That can be a symptom where the fine control has to be at 10 to get it to weld.
I repaired a family members Tig 300 300 that had the same symptom- the Silicon Controlled Rectifiers had failed along with a couple other parts, but not a super simple kind of repair to do.
Had a neighbor look at it today and he confirmed that yes there is something wrong with it. It's either too hot or too cold, no control is how he put it.
I may be looking at getting a new welder if I want to continue to learn. Not sure I would be able to take this heavy behemeth to a shop to get it repaired or how much it would cost to repair it but we'll see.
I may be looking at getting a new welder if I want to continue to learn. Not sure I would be able to take this heavy behemeth to a shop to get it repaired or how much it would cost to repair it but we'll see.
Will S
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Test the diodes (rectifiers)' you'll probably find a bad one (there should be 4). Replace them all, or buy a 300 (or greater) bridge rectifier module from ebay, for about $50. There are some capacitors in the unit. They can hold a lethal charge if they have not been bled off. There's normally a resistor mounted on a small circuit board, which does this. To be sure, you could take an insulated screwdriver, and slide the metal shank across the cap's terminals. If it still has a charge, you will see a spark (and hear a snap). Look at them (unplug the welder and remove the sheet metal covers). If there is one that is obviously spewing it's guts, you'll need one of those. They cost less than the rectifiers.
Other than that, it would be use an air nozzle to blow the dust out, and clean the electrical contact surfaces of selector switches. Not much left to go wrong. The big power transformers rarely go bad. If you decide not to mess with it, as someone else said, buy an Everlast 200ST.
Other than that, it would be use an air nozzle to blow the dust out, and clean the electrical contact surfaces of selector switches. Not much left to go wrong. The big power transformers rarely go bad. If you decide not to mess with it, as someone else said, buy an Everlast 200ST.
I bought an everlast powerarc 200 ST. I'm probably going to give the welder to a neighbor who has the same one and he can use it for parts. Like you say it probably is something simple but I don't know how to test diodes or trouble shoot a welding machine. Have never used a voltmeter before.