feedback on HF AD welding helmet

[Soundguy]

I had a chance to burn a few rods after work today. Mostly 3/32 6011. i had to fab up a few hobby projects using 1/8, 3/16 plate, and some 1/2" bar stock.

I switched between my 'fixed' #11 shade and the AD.

On the AD I started at 13, but backed it down to 12... I like 12.. bright enough to see the work.. but not quite as bright as the 11.. though I like the 11 on smaller rods and a few other circumstances.

On the ad performance. When the rod hits the work, there is some orange light about like you see from an orange LED.. or like sparks from a grinder... no white light.. About the time I percieved the orange spark, the lense went dark... Worked out nice, as I had to tack about 3 pieces together at a time, then run my beads. I like the ad.. it sets on shade 3/4 and is real easy to see the work... one thing i can't use it for, is for grinding or chop saw work. I was in the habbit of using my weld helmet with the #11 shade flipped up to do grinding and chop saw stuff, as in the past I've had some sparks hit real close to the edge of my eye from the side of ansi approved safety goggles.. the fixed weld helmet works great.

After about 20 minutes of welding I went into a closet as a reality check to see if I saw any ghost images or white / green spots.. nothing that I could percieve.. I welded off and on for another 2.5 hours. After i cleaned up the mess in the driveway ( wife had a cow.. I had the chop saw and grinder.. vice,, tools the welder.. my helmets.. a table.. and my metal out.. It was just way to hot to work in the shop / garage today. ).. I did another reality check in the dark closet. Still no spots.. no burning pain.. etc..

I call that a good experience.. as I've been flashed a few times using my fixed shade when she don't flip down right.

More later... I got alot of welding to do over the next few weeks,.

Soundguy

 

[slowrev]

As I said in the other thread SG, I love my HF autodark hood. I had tried from 9 - 12 sahdes on my fixed helmet and still could not see the pool properly with some welding rods and heats. I love the variable aspect and also seeing to position rod for striking.
Have had mine for a couple years or so and it is still working fine.
If it quits tomorrow I will go get another one.
Ben

 

[RobJ]

Same here, couple years on my $50 helmet. There is another super long thread somewhere on this to.

 

[MossRoad]

Have you tried the different delay and sensitivity settings yet?

 

[Soundguy]

Yes.. delay makes it stay dark longer after the arc stops. And I like about a # 12 on the adjustable shade.

Soundguy

 

[MossRoad]

Mine has three adjustments.
1. Shade level. It is a dial on the outside of the helmet and is adjustable from 9-13, I think.
2. Delay. How long it stays on after the spark goes away. It is a two position switch. Long and short. I have mine set on long, which is 1 second.
3. Sensitivity. From what I understand, it is the adjustment for how bright of a spark will trigger the auto darken. It is also a two position switch with a high and low setting, I believe. I have mine set for the most sensitive.

I mention this because you mentioned seeing something orange before it goes dark. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough, but all I see is the stick touch the work and everything goes dark instantly. Do you have that sensitivity switch on yours?

 

[deerhunterf350]

I am thinking about an AD hood. But I have a question.

Is it like conventional hoods, where a Magnifying lense can be put in behind the Lens system, for My Grandfather who doesn't have the sight that I ( a 30 yearold ) has.

Thanks.

 

[RobJ]

I am thinking about an AD hood. But I have a question.

Is it like conventional hoods, where a Magnifying lense can be put in behind the Lens system, for My Grandfather who doesn't have the sight that I ( a 30 yearold ) has.

Thanks.

Don't see why not. The opening looks about standard on the inside. BTW my HF hood came with an extra piece of glass and lense.

I would also think he could wear glasses under the hood.

 

[Dargo]

On the ad performance. When the rod hits the work, there is some orange light about like you see from an orange LED.. or like sparks from a grinder... no white light.. About the time I percieved the orange spark, the lense went dark... Worked out nice, as I had to tack about 3 pieces together at a time, then run my beads. I like the ad.. it sets on shade 3/4 and is real easy to see the work...

Perfect. When arc welding that is exactly how I'd describe the HF AD hood. The initial sparks from striking an arc work absolutely perfectly for the AD part to function. Even when TIG welding I can use the HF hood because the torch will initiate the darkening fine. My only complaint, as I mentioned earlier to you, is that (even with 3 different HF hoods - I did take the first 2 back) when MIG welding I get nailed with that hood. Maybe it's because I'm using .035 wire and running fairly hot with 3/8" material. I don't know. All I know is that I positively cannot use the HF AD hood for that. It cost considerably more, but my Miller Elite Big Window AD hood never flashes me, so that is what I use. As I suggested earlier, if you only arc weld or TIG weld, I correctly guessed you'd be okay with the cheap AD hood.

 

[Maine_Polack]

I am thinking about an AD hood. But I have a question.

Is it like conventional hoods, where a Magnifying lense can be put in behind the Lens system, for My Grandfather who doesn't have the sight that I ( a 30 yearold ) has.

I use a "cheater"/ magnifying lense in mine. It fits fine.