Getting a Yanmar repaired

[2manyrocks]

Get a seamstress' flexible tape measure and measure the length around the pully setup. Or take a string and go around the pulleys. Mark the string with a felt pen. Then measure the string with a tape measure. Or take the old belt to the auto parts place and tell them to give you a shorter belt. Or somebody will probably post the correct one....or give you a better suggestion.

 

[Eddie]

Or somebody will probably post the correct one....or give you a better suggestion.

Danny already posted the correct belt size.

 

[MJPetersen]

Danny already gave him the right size.

I have a 1510D and my charge light was coming on when at low speed and at various other times intermittently. When I tightened the belt the light stayed out. Sometimes the simple thing is it--in fact more often than not it is it.

Mike

 

[tony123]

Went to NAPA today. Got an A33. Got home and couldn't get it on. Had to go back and get an A34. It barely stretched on. My old belt was an A34, but had stretched about 3/8". Thats alot in the world of belts I gather.

So, new belt is on, but charging light is still on. I must have a different problem. Maybe its the voltage regulator? At this point, the problem is beyond my knowledge. Interestingly enough, the battery has been working for two weeks. Maybe it is getting charged and I have a simple warning light problem?

 

[1danny]

Went to NAPA today. Got an A33. Got home and couldn't get it on. Had to go back and get an A34. It barely stretched on. My old belt was an A34, but had stretched about 3/8". Thats alot in the world of belts I gather.

So, new belt is on, but charging light is still on. I must have a different problem. Maybe its the voltage regulator? At this point, the problem is beyond my knowledge. Interestingly enough, the battery has been working for two weeks. Maybe it is getting charged and I have a simple warning light problem?

Tony, the reason I said A33 is because that's what the parts book called for.

Danny

 

[tony123]

Dan, I didn't mean to sound like you steered me wrong. I'm sure the book says what it says. Just posting my experience. Thanks for your help!

 

[Underwaterdog]

Everything was working when the belt broke. Something has changed since the belt broke. Could the end of the broken belt whipped around and smacked a wire loose? Check all the connections and wires very carefully before you start throwing money at it. I have seen the copper wires break inside the insulation and the wire appears OK when it is broken. Gently tug on those wires going to the alternator, especially the ones going to the plug in the back, and make sure that don't stretch. If they stretch, thee is a good chance the copper is broken inside the wire insulation jacket.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...
So, new belt is on, but charging light is still on. I must have a different problem. Maybe its the voltage regulator?
...

Original report of this particular problem indicated the charging light went out above 1500 RPM or so. Is that still the case, or is the light on all the time now?

I'm certainly no expert, but I'd expect the cause of the problem might be different for each of those two cases. I've been through the "on all the time" case twice and an inoperative regulator was involved both times.

 

[tony123]

Original report of this particular problem indicated the charging light went out above 1500 RPM or so. Is that still the case, or is the light on all the time now?

I'm certainly no expert, but I'd expect the cause of the problem might be different for each of those two cases. I've been through the "on all the time" case twice and an inoperative regulator was involved both times.

Hey Tom. You're correct. The light used to go off around 1500rpm. Now, it doesn't go off at all. Well, it will go off for brief seconds at a time, rarely.

I think I'm going to let this ride out to see if the battery dies. I'm not convinced that I really have a problem, as I've started the tractor 30-40 times so far and the battery is still strong. If it does die out, I'll look at the regulator. Thanks for your help.

Tony

 

[Tom_Veatch]

.... The light used to go off around 1500rpm. Now, it doesn't go off at all. Well, it will go off for brief seconds at a time, rarely.
...

Since the electrical requirement for most of these machines - barring night usage - is primarily starting, if your's is an easy starter like mine, the battery may last quite a while before giving out.

Assuming your configuration mirrors mine, the regulator is an assemblage of solid state devices and I have no idea what all the failure modes might be. There are a couple of things that I'd check.

The charging light is powered by one of the outputs of the regulator and I assume it's possible that it could be a bogus indication. Rule that out by making sure you have good connections at the battery terminals and checking voltage across the battery both with the engine off and with it running. If the engine off voltage is around 12.5 or less and engine running voltage is a couple of volts higher, you are getting charging current and it's probably a bogus indicator circuit.

If there's no charging current, note the temperature of the wires coming out of the alternator. My last regulator failed in a short circuit mode that essentially shorted the alternator output leads together. Those wires would get very hot very soon after engine start due to the high current being passed through that short circuit. Verify that with the engine off by unplugging the alternator and measuring the resistance across the terminals on the regulator side of that connector. Swap the ohmmeter leads on the two terminals and check the resistance again. One direction should give a significantly higher resistance than the other.

With the alternator unplugged and the engine running use an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage available on the alternator side of the connector. Mine ranged from a low of about 14 VAC at idle up to about 31 VAC at 2400 RPM.

Those checks should identify whether it's a regulator or an alternator problem you're looking at. There are several threads on the forum that touch on charging system problems on these tractors as well as modifications that replace the alternator/regulator configuration with internally regulated GM one-wire and three-wire alternators.

Good luck.