Oil & Fuel ? for those that added oil pressure gauge

[ninefinger]

Have finally found the perfect place to mount the oil pressure gauge and read many threads on what fittings and every thing I need, however, the one thing that I want to know is why copper tubing instead of the plastic or whatever tubing that usually comes with the unit. Is it the heat factor? My tractor runs very cool, even after a couple of hours about the only thing I can not really touch is the exhaust. Just wondering.

 

[Willl]

Personally, I wouldn't use copper. It'll sure to crack from the vibration the tractor puts out.

I have always used the supplied plastic line and never had a problem.

 

[California]

After ripping off the Oil Presure Sender wire on some nasty brush, I decided that adding a gauge and its delicate tube was MORE likely to leave me stranded out somewhere.

It was unnerving to drive back to the barn with the oil light glowing, even though the cause was obvious. But driving back with oil spurting from a broken tube would have been worse.

Yanmar built these things bulletproof. I'm not convinced that adding aftermarket 'features' improves reliability.

 

[ninefinger]

Thanks Willl.
California, I plan to keep my idoit light so there would be a T fitting and all tucks up pretty close to the block. With my side panels on there is not much unprotected and it has never been in brush like what you deal with. Your trees are just waiting for you to make a false move so they can slap you or your tractor. You also need yours, mine is therapy. Nothing like seat time. My tractor will let me do things I want to do but do not have to do. And yes, these units are bullet proof, it will just be an aid to let me moniter the machine. I put a volt meter on and now I know not to run the rear light and head lights continually, just too much draw, but unless I changing implements in the dark I do not need the rear light. I do appreciate your input because you do use your tractor and I value yours and a few others opinions here.

 

[reb]

I have installed oil pressure gauges on several vehicles, including my Yanmar. I always used copper. It is easier to route it to avoid snagging it on something or rubbing where it shouldn't. I have never experienced a failure. As a matter of fact, the tubing I used on my tractor is the same piece used on two or three previous installations, starting about 40 years ago.

 

[Zephrant]

Another option is an electronic sender- that's what I put in my car, and is what I'm looking to put in my tractor.

Anyone know what range is best? Is 100PSI enough?

 

[ninefinger]

Another option is an electronic sender- that's what I put in my car, and is what I'm looking to put in my tractor.
I will keep the idiot light(electric) but given the choice I will take mechanical everytime. Two electrical units would be redundant.

 

[SailorBob]

Another option is an electronic sender- that's what I put in my car, and is what I'm looking to put in my tractor.

Anyone know what range is best? Is 100PSI enough?

I have a mechanical gauge installed on my tractor and the oil pressure ranges between 40 - 60 PSI. That should be good.

 

[Zephrant]

Thanks- most gauges I've found are 0-80 or 0-100, so looks like the 0-80 would be fine.
The last gauge I mounted was on an old VW Dasher, and I had to use a 0-130 as it would blow anything less when it was really cold.

I'll leave the idiot light intact, but I like to know at a glance where the pressure is. I'd like electrical only so I don't have to run a line from the gauge to the sensor. Wire is tougher, and easier to protect/route, or disconnect if I need to move them to install a cab.

 

[turnerbend]

Thanks Willl.
California, I plan to keep my idoit light so there would be a T fitting and all tucks up pretty close to the block. With my side panels on there is not much unprotected and it has never been in brush like what you deal with. Your trees are just waiting for you to make a false move so they can slap you or your tractor. You also need yours, mine is therapy. Nothing like seat time. My tractor will let me do things I want to do but do not have to do. And yes, these units are bullet proof, it will just be an aid to let me moniter the machine. I put a volt meter on and now I know not to run the rear light and head lights continually, just too much draw, but unless I changing implements in the dark I do not need the rear light. I do appreciate your input because you do use your tractor and I value yours and a few others opinions here.

Could you diagharm how you wired your volt meter.