YM 2210, utility lights & Hazard lights

[broncobisley1]

Just got done installing utility lights and converting my blinkers to hazard lights, and thought I'd share.

I purchased the two utility lights from Northern Tool a while back for $10 each. I purchased a two-position push pull switch, a three position push pull switch and some wire at Advance Auto for $15. I already had everything else.

Basically I don't need blinkers so I used the two position push pull switch and just wired the two blinker wires together on one side of the switch to get hazard lights.

I unhooked the blinker wire from the fuse box, then soldered together a Y, so that the new wire hooked up to the fuse box with a connector, one leg of the Y hooked up to the blinker wire that used to go to the fuse box, the other leg of the Y went to my three position switch.

I then installed the two utility lights shown in the picture. I put them there, because I never lower the roll bar and it was the perfect mounting place. I then ran wire along the tractor, taped and wrapped to the existing wires so they wouldn't snag. I hooked the wires up to the three position switch, so that the light shining down comes on first, then they both come on in the second position.

When I removed the existing blinker switch the hole was too large, so I had to use fender washers (on top and underneath) with cork underneath them and a small washer to act as a spacer in the large hole (to keep switch from being able to move laterally). I moved the hazard switch closer to the steering wheel ( already was a hole there, just needed to be a little larger) and put the utility light switch where the blinker switch used to be.

I still have to do a little touch up with paint. Black goop around utility light switch is permatex. Wished I had done this a long time ago. Now to take the tractor back to its normal home. Pictures were before I had adjusted the light direction, had to wait for it to get dark first.

Just wanted to share.

 

[mark777]

Nice, clean installation!

Always looking for ways to upgrade my tractors and your post is more than helpful.

Mark

 

[unclelou]

Your timing is great. I just got a 2210 d myself a mounth ago and was trying to figure out how to do just what you did. Looks Great.

 

[ninefinger]

Already had the original hole in my 2210BD right fender so I added one light similar to yours. My battery is around 6 to 7 months old and at an idle my alternator is putting out 15+- volts. Did a little night work and running the headlights on low and my single fender light, 2000rpm, my battery was slowly but surely losing. You may want to check with a volt meter under that kind of load and see what you are getting. I was surprized that my tractor's electrical system would struggle with this load if I had kept it on all the time. I would just turn the fender light off when not needed and did not have a problem, with just headlights on battery built back up quickly.

 

[broncobisley1]

Thanks for the compliments.

ninefinger, I will check tomorrow, but I think I should of put out the disclaimer that my utility lights are only going to be used for thirty minutes at a time at most, since I don't really do any night work.

I mainly wanted to have the lights to back-up and help my dad be able to see to change implements or load a deer when he gets caught after dark. I share the tractor with my dad and it is also now his deer carrier, since he has trouble dragging them for very far now. We welded together a deer carrier for the 3-point hitch, looks just like the hitch carriers made for automobiles.

 

[E_Sanborn]

....... I think I should of put out the disclaimer that my utility lights are only going to be used for thirty minutes at a time at most, since I don't really do any night work.....

Bronco, nice rigging there. I think you'll be OK with the load. My YM2010D has a similar anemic Alternator (generator, really) rated at 15A. I measure 14.35 V at 1500-2500RPM with all lights on.

I've made similar mods, replacing the puny OEM headlights with Petersen Mfg. model 509 quartz -the 3x5 rectangular is a near-perfect fit for the 2010 front grille. (you open up the fixture, take out the front lens/reflector/lampholder assy, and discard the back and mount., oh, and fabricate mounting brackets as per OEM.) I was tired of paying top $ for crummy incandescent bulbs with the ouput of three candles and a half-life of a moth. The 509s use H3 bulbs, widely available, inexpensive @ $5-10 ea. and they last for a long time. I've got the two in the front, replacing the headlights, and some other PM round fixture in the back, all with 55W bulbs. (H3s are widely available with 35, 55, & 100W output) . I also rigged with a 'y' splitter as per your blinker mod to create hazard flashers. I don't really need to indicate turns, but I do want the Bubbas on my road to see me when I'm out and about.

The indicated voltage output above is with all lights on. Even at an idle for an extended time, there's no indication that the electrical system is not up to the task on my unit, no draining from the batt.. If I recall correctly, 14V x 15A= 210Watts. I'm only pulling 185 W or so, with the three 55W bulbs and 2x5W indicators. Oh, and I did put PM LED sidemarker lamps on my fabricated ROPS as "running lights" but being LEDS, I'm not even going to count them..

 

[Gizmo36]

Nice job, when I had my 2210 I put hazard lights on it but still had the blinkers. Going to put them on my 3110.

 

[broncobisley1]

Ok, finally got around to checking it with a voltmeter.

Basically, with all four lights running it is not drawing off of the battery. This is with the factory headlights.

Looks like if I replace the headlights with H3 55 Watt halogens then I could run three lights without draining the battery, but if I had 4 55 Watt lamps running for an extended period it would very slowly drain the battery.

This works for me, and once I replace the headlights, I know running all four lights at once would not be for long enough to matter.

E_Sanborn
Thanks for the tip on replacing the factory lights.

 

[E_Sanborn]

Bronco,
The difference between the stock 25/35w (really 25/25w) incandescents and Q-H H3 55w lamps is like night and day. No Hi/Lo beam, but so what.

When I get caught up, i'll post pix of the mods, I really should give some back to the forum for all the ideas and guidance I've got from the community here.