Splitting a Yanmar 1500d???

   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d??? #1  

gweishaar

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
31
Location
Richmond, VA
My 1500d (1975 originally Green??) started squealing badly while working a blade on my road at my lake house. I adjusted the clutch linkage, ran for a while (less of a squeal) and then the tractor would not shift into gear from neutral (too much grinding) or out of gear while in gear (No more squealing). I adjusted the linkage to both extremes with no success. I suspect a broken throw out bearing or fork. The clutch seems stuck in place. ( I am an amatuer mechanic).

I have searched the site for info on a fix and on splitting the tractor. I found some useful info but nothing really specific to the Green 1500d. Also I found some suggestions to break a frozen clutch. This seems like it is not the problem since the tractor was shifting OK and 30 minutes later it was stuck in gear. I can shift to neutral and back into any gear when the engine is not running. Seems like a split of the tractor would be the best way to see what the problem really is.

It seems I should support the tractor and stabilize it in front so it wont turn to the left or right while supporting the engine and use a floor jack (maybe automotive on rollers) on the rear. I could use some 2 x material laid on the ground so I can roll or maybe pull with my lawn tractor the rear back while supported on the automotive jack.

If I split the tractor to find the real problem, how do I disconnect the hydraulic lines? Will I have to drain the fluid? It looks like the lines after being disconnected at the rear won't allow the tractor to be split without disconnecting the lines at the pump. The lines kinda go around the bell housing at the split. The lines seem to be connected solidly to the pump in front. Would the whole pump assembly need to be removed to allow the tractor to be split.?

I think I can handle disconnecting/connecting all the other connections (electrical, fuel, compression release, throttle, clutch linkage and etc.)

The tractor is about 100 miles away at my lake house. The tractor is parked on the ground (may make the splitting difficult) with a blade on the back. I don't have a garage or concrete slab there to allow the work to be done inside nor on a flat slab.

Any suggestions on a fix, splitting the tractor or references to other info/suggestions on the site would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Gary in Virginia
 
   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d??? #2  
Hi Gary,

In many instances you can remove the drag link, loosen the steering box and slide the steering column up through the top dash panel about 12". This allows a viewable access hole where you can use a flashlight and examine the return springs to the T/O bearing slider. They do brake on occassion and the pins in the case have been known to brake as well. If a pin or spring IS broken the other spring well put uneven pressure on the pilot shaft and very often cause the assembly to hang up or not work at all. If this isn't the problem...then yes, a split is the only answer.

Remove the hood and battery.
Remove the wiring harness from the headlights, temp sender, oil sender, starter and loosely secure it to the rear section (I use the steering wheel.
Drain the hydraulic fluid and remove both pressure and retun lines from the pump.
Remove the pitman arm to drag link steering connection.
Remove the decompression handle at the valve cover connection.
Remove the throttle link at the fuel injection pump.
Remove (and clamp off) the fuel line from the tank to fuel shut off valve.
Loosen and collapse drive shaft tube, cotter pin and slide washer, spring assembly to Remove the drive shaft (carefully remove the ball bearings in the shaft end cup.
Remove starter to access bell housing bolts.
Secure the front half (engine and frame) with jack stands keeping the entire unit as level as possible.
Using a good floor jack (and in your case, a heavy 2"X12" to roll on), gently raise the jack to 'touch' and remove the bell housing to engine bolts. Once removed, gently rock the engine half of the tractor while someone helps you push the two halfs apart.
As the tractor comes apart (WARNING) the front half WILL rotate to one side at about 10°.
Your good to go!
For the absolute best and permanent repair, replace the pressure plate, disk, T/O bearing AND pilot bushing (in the carnk shaft end). Doing this makes it a bit 'pricy' but much less expensive then doing it twice.

Good luck
 
   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d???
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Mark,

I finally got around to splitting the tractor (it is 100 miles away from my home at my place at Kerr Lake). Your steps were very helpful. I wedged some plywood between the axel and the stops (front end) to keep the tractor from falling to 1 side.

The problem seems to be a bad replacement of the clutch No release bearing cup w/snap ring nor bearing carrier bushing were found inside. The release bearing was frozen and this I think caused the clutch to get so hot it was welded together. I am in the process of ordering the parts and will eventually (I won't be abbe to reassemble the tractor for a month or so) get it back together. Thanks again for your help.

Gary
 
   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d??? #4  
Gary, glad to hear that you finally got it apart and know what you need to get it back together again.
 
   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d??? #5  
Do you have any pictures of the split?
 
   / Splitting a Yanmar 1500d???
  • Thread Starter
#6  
When I left (the tractor is 100 miles away from my home) I put two of the bolts back in the bell housing so that the tractor would not end up on the ground or fall and hurt someone. I will need to just remove the bolts and roll the tractor back on the rolling jack to take it apart to install the clutch. I will try to take some pictures and post them (if I can figure out how to) when I return to install the new clutch.

The split was relatively easy. It took me with my 92 year old father who supervised, about 4 hours to get it apart thanks to instructions from Mark777 on this site (thanks again Mark).

One item that wasn't mentioned but was quickly obvious and relatively easy was the removal of the tach cable. Another thing to look out for are the small balls that engage the 4 wheel drive shaft that runs from front to rear under the tractor. There are six balls in the back of the shaft and I think about 6 in the front end of the shaft. I was careful with the front but didn't realize they were in the back as well. I think 1 was missing in the rear or either my Dad dropped it when he helped by pulling it loose. Replacements are available and are about $.58. Only need 1 but will order several.
 
 
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