bennyboy95
New member
Does anyone know if a Yanmar L90 and be bored to fit a L100 piston?
Forum for air cooled diesel engines and clones
- Thread starter 90cummins
- Start date
bennyboy95
New member
I know they have the two oversize but I can only find them available in Europe for far more than I can get an aftermarket L100 piston off ebay. Is there a place for the pistons for a L90 in the states? The water made some deep pits and I'm not sure how much will need to be bored out to clean it up.
Thanks Ben
Thanks Ben
Call Jameson tractor.
Bought quite a few Yanmar parts nice people!!
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/asset.php?fid=478224&uid=109723&d=1518903641
Bought quite a few Yanmar parts nice people!!
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/asset.php?fid=478224&uid=109723&d=1518903641
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xp190
Bronze Member
Howdy folks
I managed to get in some wrenching time this weekend.
I am down to the difficult bit, separating the rotor from the crankshaft.
This is what I'm looking at:
Now comes the part where I need to pop the rotor off of the crankshaft.
I think I understand how this is supposed to happen, it looks like it will take effort on my end, a project for next week.
Looking everything over, I noticed that the wire connected to the fuel pump solenoid was quite loose.
Is it possible that the solenoid was being activated and deactivated as the engine vibrated causing the stuttering?
I'm not quite sure of the functionality of this solenoid, but it sounds like it cuts off fuel when not energized and needs to be energized to allow fuel to flow?
If that is the case, if it was jittering, it would cut the fuel every few revolutions causing the engine to start slowing down, but as soon as it reconnected it would fire up again.
Perhaps this is why I didn't see anything unusual about the smoke coming out of the exhaust?
Just speculating here, but I'm starting to think maybe my problem isn't as complicated as I initially though it could be.
Appreciate any input from the experts.
Thank you
xp
I managed to get in some wrenching time this weekend.
I am down to the difficult bit, separating the rotor from the crankshaft.
This is what I'm looking at:
Now comes the part where I need to pop the rotor off of the crankshaft.
I think I understand how this is supposed to happen, it looks like it will take effort on my end, a project for next week.
Looking everything over, I noticed that the wire connected to the fuel pump solenoid was quite loose.
Is it possible that the solenoid was being activated and deactivated as the engine vibrated causing the stuttering?
I'm not quite sure of the functionality of this solenoid, but it sounds like it cuts off fuel when not energized and needs to be energized to allow fuel to flow?
If that is the case, if it was jittering, it would cut the fuel every few revolutions causing the engine to start slowing down, but as soon as it reconnected it would fire up again.
Perhaps this is why I didn't see anything unusual about the smoke coming out of the exhaust?
Just speculating here, but I'm starting to think maybe my problem isn't as complicated as I initially though it could be.
Appreciate any input from the experts.
Thank you
xp
frugalangler
Gold Member
Being that the solenoid is the shut down mechanism if it's interrupted the engine would attempt to die, if rotating enough to sustain restart on the solenoid re-opening, then that could very well cause it to 'sputter' as you describe. Too bad you've got it torn down to where you can't test that theory on your motor.
Looks like you are on the right track.
To protect the crankshaft I cut the head off a grade 8 screw and threaded it into the crankshaft then inserted a spacer so my jack screw could push field unit off.
Mine did not come off easily.
It took considerable force and careful application of heat (to avoid electrical damage) near the engine end of the generator to get it to separate.
It was on so tight I had to use my air impact to tighten/loosen/tighten /loosen many times.
I even let it set overnight with pressure on.
When I exhausted all options I ram my air pressure up to 200 psi and let-er rip.
Finally came off with minor crank thread damage.
Your symptoms could be the loose wire or a couple other issues I've seen.
Once you open it up we can diagnose.
90cummins
To protect the crankshaft I cut the head off a grade 8 screw and threaded it into the crankshaft then inserted a spacer so my jack screw could push field unit off.
Mine did not come off easily.
It took considerable force and careful application of heat (to avoid electrical damage) near the engine end of the generator to get it to separate.
It was on so tight I had to use my air impact to tighten/loosen/tighten /loosen many times.
I even let it set overnight with pressure on.
When I exhausted all options I ram my air pressure up to 200 psi and let-er rip.
Finally came off with minor crank thread damage.
Your symptoms could be the loose wire or a couple other issues I've seen.
Once you open it up we can diagnose.
90cummins
BeeferMan
Gold Member
I'm not impressed with that tapered shaft design - I'm feeling very lucky my rotor pretty much fell off the crankshaft.
I got some time in on mine last weekend, opened the engine up and pulled the piston - I found that the piston lands were broken, as suspected, so I think I'm at root cause for its sudden lack of compression. Also, my unit had very low hours on it, so I was surprised at the amount of wear on the rod bearings. I ordered a new piston and some rod bearings, hopefully they'll show up while I still remember how to put this all back together, lol.
I got some time in on mine last weekend, opened the engine up and pulled the piston - I found that the piston lands were broken, as suspected, so I think I'm at root cause for its sudden lack of compression. Also, my unit had very low hours on it, so I was surprised at the amount of wear on the rod bearings. I ordered a new piston and some rod bearings, hopefully they'll show up while I still remember how to put this all back together, lol.
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xp190
Bronze Member
I'll keep working on this, but in the meantime, do you guys have a place to order parts from for these engines?
I wanted to get a gasket set for it once I pull the head to see what things look like on the inside, maybe a real glowplug as well. I have a feeling that the coil under the air filter might have been responsible for why the air filter burnt up to begin with resulting in all the other issues.
I'll have to jimmy up some sort of a jack screw to get this thing off.
Since it's a tapered design, has anyone tried the tierod trick? I always struggled with tie rods until a friend of mine who just finished shop class told me that you don't hit it from the top or bottom, but you hit the side to shock the tapered surfaces causing the tierod to pop out, it works quite well, but I'm not sure I would know what to hit on the rotor, or if it is strong enough to make this work, just an idea really.
xp
I wanted to get a gasket set for it once I pull the head to see what things look like on the inside, maybe a real glowplug as well. I have a feeling that the coil under the air filter might have been responsible for why the air filter burnt up to begin with resulting in all the other issues.
I'll have to jimmy up some sort of a jack screw to get this thing off.
Since it's a tapered design, has anyone tried the tierod trick? I always struggled with tie rods until a friend of mine who just finished shop class told me that you don't hit it from the top or bottom, but you hit the side to shock the tapered surfaces causing the tierod to pop out, it works quite well, but I'm not sure I would know what to hit on the rotor, or if it is strong enough to make this work, just an idea really.
xp